Dtsnlvrs

Ditch Lake Weber AKA the 2 32/36 DGV's on your car and invest in a set of properly rebuilt SU's might run more than 300 to do it right but it will pay for itself with better performance and better fuel mileage.

Well I just wanted to start by saying thanks to those that helped me with guidance, info, and or parts prior to me doing this swap. Thanks to jmortensen for technical advise, johnc for advise and parts, 2ManyZs for a kind ear, 260pos for getting your hands dirty today, and to rc's240z for helping me to unload some parts and free up the cash to do this. This all started with the need to get my RPM up into the working range for my cam and carbs and still be able to use 5th gear. With my old 3.54 rear and the 81-83 N/A 5sp, I could not use 5th unless I was at 70mph or higher, anything slower and the motor would lug and ping. The first thought was to buy a r180 lsd (could not pass on the price) and find a suitable 3.9 or 4.11 gear set to match it with....well didn't nissan throw us a wrinkle on that one as in pre vs post 76 r180 diffs. So plan B, find a suitable buyer for now useless 110mm R180 LSD (Thanks Ron) and then buy a 4.11 or 4.38 Late R180 diff and get John to make the diff side stubs for it. Well I found a junk yard in Lincoln, NE that had multiple 4.11 R180 from 200sx and they would sell one for $100 shipped to Vegas. John made me a beautiful set of diff side flanges and it was time to go thru the diff. Now some people are gonna scoff at some of what I say, but here it goes. Opened the diff up, and verified that it was indeed a 4.11, pulled the side bearing retainers and removed the carrier for inspection. All is looking good. No unusual wear patterns or scuffing on the bearings or the ring gear. Shine a flashlight into the housing to get a good look at the pinion and it looks great, no scuffing or unusual wear. Replaced the bearing retainer O-rings and back in she goes. I also replaced the side oil seals, however with this and almost every other nissan diff I have done, unless I remove the pinion, I will not replace the pinion oil seal...never seen one leak so why bother to risk damaging the pinion to replace it (see told you some people will scoff). I cleaned the rear cover mating surfaces and installed a new OEM gasket with a light (skim) coat of RTV. All the bolts were tightened and torqued to spec and a new diff breather was installed. Then I slipped the new stub shafts in and with a slight tap of a hammer, they were registered. Now she is ready for install. I will not bore ya'll with a play by play of the install but I will point out some must do's and do not's. 1. DO re-lube U-joints when doing this, got em out already why not take advantage of it. 2. DO tighten the rear drums, already got the wheels off, see 1 above. 3. DO use anti seize on the halfshaft mating flanges, save yourself for next time. 4. DO NOT tighten diff to diff mount bolts until the end...I know it is a PITA to use a 12pt 17mm box end to tighten them little F$%KERS once it is installed, but there will be no pre-stress on the Moustache bar if you do it this way. 5. DO NOT assume that the Diff to Moustache bar mount nuts are tight enough...25% of diff clunking is from the diff shifting in the moustache bar...tighten them suckers German style if ya know what I mean. That about sums it up...If you want or need more info on how to swap a diff....buy a freakin service manual, crawl under the car and figure it out...esp if you plan on just dropping the diff w/o dropping the entire suspension and exhaust. Oh and tomorrow I will post the road test update

Gimme a call, ph no's in PM i sent, I will be in the garage for the day, but can come down and take a look at it to see what we need to do to get it right

Jon, I will digress and partially agree with you, as far as tranny strength goes, I was refering more to the fact that the 81-83 N/A tranny main shaft nut is threaded opposite as the earlier trans and therfore will try to tighten as the tranny gets older. And regarding the diff ratio, you are correct, 3.5 or 3.7 would be a better ratio matched with the close ratio box.

There is nothing whimpy about the 4sp tranny, unless you are refering to the "A" type used in the series one cars. As far as 5 speeds go, get a 81-83 N/A 5speed, and mate it to a 3.9 or 4.11 rearend. Forget about the 79 5sp....really weird gear ratios.

The hatch vents did indeed allow for the "flow thru" vent system. If you patch them over, then the vent sys will not work properly. Try this, for thos eof you who have patched them over, roll up your windows and set the sys for fresh vent but do not turn the fan on. You will see that there is very little air flow, now slightly crack the windows and you will see a much greater increase in airflow...this is why they had the vents. Now, as far as the fumes go, there is a flapper valve in the hatch panel, and after years of use and abuse, it does not seal properly. To remedy this, remove the panel and disassemble the flapper, taking care to not lose anything. Now soak the rubber flaps in silicone spray, don't ask me how to get it out of the can without making a mess. Soak them for at least a week, then reassemble and voila..no more fumes (assuming the rest os the seals are good)

PCV Valve

Yes MSD does make a tach adapter that works in the 240Z and yes I would recomend it. It works beautifully and I have even seen it used to make the tach work on Haltech and Electramotive equipped Z's. It looks like this http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/5599/bucksint3le2.jpg[/img]"] I wish the pic had better resolution so you could get the part no off of it. Call MSD, they only make two adapters and they will know which one to use. Remember, we have an inductive loop tach.

Try and get the entire harness and ECU, and the entire engine if possible and I can help you do the swap....it is rather staight forward.

Not Family Guy but Funny anyway http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=1443761738

If Clapton is GOD then this must be JESUS http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T-IzO30aF_g

You can get the stripe from MSA http://www.zcarparts.com

Join the Army...oh wait that would entail leaving home, well maybe not you already live in Killeen...

No takers

Well I have talked to many of you and the almost unanimous consensus was that the ACT pressure plate mated to a NEW clutch disc (ACT street in this case) is a good way to go, I will be mounting this to a freshly turned and balanced Maxima Flywheel very soon (got all the parts just need the time.)

Well I said pics would be forthcoming, so here they are. Sorry bout the dark one.

Hey is that supposed to be a poster for the Clemson vs South Carolina game??

Hey was that Hasselhof as a judge??

Way to go, gotta love Ross's stuff. I did the same swap but used the 86 caliper (slightly smaller) or was it the 87...whatever the caliper that they used the first year of vented fronts, and kept the 72 master cyl. (could not use the ZX one due to interference with my ITG air cleaner.) Love it, pedal is plenty firm enough with good modulation and they never get hot.

Great point BRAAP. I too have considered doing a MN47 / F54 flattop combo, but am leaning more on having my existing E-88 worked over (ie unshroud the valves some more and open the ports up) and keep my triples (better, just spent 500bucks on NOS parts, spares, jets, emm tubes etc) and keep the old school / period correct performance modified look.

Oh jeez where to begin, I dont have as much as BRAAP although, if I did not move every 3yrs courtesy of The Army, I could. 4 complete 240 SU carb sets 1 complete 240 SU carb manifold 1 untouched complete E-31 head (Cam et al) 1 74 4sp transmission 1 r180 4.11 diff 1 complete 73 suspension (control arms and strut housings) 2 complete sets of every rubber bit for 70 240Z (seals etc) 2 complete sets every emblem or badge for 70 240Z 1 complete lock set for 71 240Z (keyed alike) 1 complete interior (plastic panels) 1 set 70 seatbelts 1 set 72 (early non retract) seat belts 2 flywheels (1 maxima 1 z) 1 complete (front and rear) brake set (calipers, drums, discs etc) 1 NOS Nissan Cam billet (rough) 1 "C" grind 260z cam 5 sets rocker arms boxes and boxes of stuff (basically I could build another car with a rust free shell) And enough Weber parts to jet 3x40DCOE for any Z motor Oh and a several sets of 240Z taillights (one set like new) Oh yeah, and a fully functioning, almost as new, rear hatch glass (vertical defrost) And no telling what I left at 240ZTT's house when I moved from DC to Las Vegas....Joe, are you listening, answer the dang phone.

Well some more changes happening here. Mind you I am still using a 3.54 rear end so this impacts the results. I removed the f-16 emulsion tubes and rejetted to suit. I also advanced the timing to 22deg btdc 34deg all in. This is what we have now. 40DCOE18 33mm chokes 4.5 Aux venturi f-11 emulsion tubes 130 main jets 175 air correctors 50f9 idle jets 45 pump jets 50 pump bleed The car behaves as before the install of the f-16 tubes. Idle is cleaner and intial throttle response is crisp, maybe slightly lean. Slight pinging when I load the motor up in the wrong gear but this is to be expected. I would like to lean out the idle some more but the next step would be 50f8 and that is too lean for now. I will probably play with thsi some more once we get the 4.11 installed. I have also ordered som F-9 emulsion tubes and will give those a try as well once the diff is installed.

Duh..its in my signature

Well my F-16 Emulsion tubes came in today and I re-jetted to suit. 33mm chokes 4.5 aux vent F-16 emulsion 135main 180 airs 50f9 idle 45 accel 50 pump bleed Conclusion...I was better off with the f-11. The f-16 is too fat, however the change in Idle jets was in the right direction....smells better and is a little more crisp at the crack of the throttle, but once the mains start coming in it flat out bogs...ever seen your A/F meter register full lean cause you are so rich!! On a side note..my 4.11 came in today as well...guess I gotta get it in to see what it does.

I have had the honor of seeing this car in person when I was stationed in Italy. It is blinding fast and loud as hell. The first time I heard it I thought they had allowed a retired F1 car to run the hill rally....did not take long for it to make the next 2 switchbacks until it was in view and I was like WTF over!!