Dtsnlvrs

Sorry to drag up an old thread but I figured I would add my $.02. I am using the GC setup, Tokico Blues, 150lb front, 175lb rear, 1in f bar, 3/4 in r bar, PDK strut bars front and rear. My chassis has been stiffened even further with new floor pans and Bad Dog Floor rails. The ride is quite stiffer than stock, but still compliant enough to keep my fillings in, and it is an all around fun car at an Auto-x or the track. I could care less bout being first anymore...if it bothers me bad enough, I just ask the fastest competitor to lend me his/her car for a fun run, and beat their fastest time...

You might be better off just having one made...You will be happier in the long run.

That was nice job showing patience while behind the 350.

Friggin' SuWeet

Yeah I am relatively new here as well. I have been lurking here for years mostly due to links sent to me by 240ztt. Tried IZCC back during the dial-up days, moved on to Zcar for awhile, but I was in Italy so it really did not help. Joined 240.org shortly therafter but got locked out due to an e-mail glitch (did I mention I was living in Italy)..finally got a new account @ CZC (FKA 240.org) and stayed there till I came here, however I still help out some of the purists over there as I used to be one. But not any more...MUST HAVE MORE POWER...

Very good write up. With the heat issue though....It is not that the air builds up and spills back into the front, the air actually flows under the car. The heat becomes a factor when the temperature of the hood gets way over ambient. It affects the boundry layer on the top of the hood, and thereby affects the drag on the car. As far as getting rid of the heat....just remove the cowl to hood seal....instant 15-20 deg temp drop on a hot Alabama day.

Cannot escape the long arm of the law.

What makes mine so special...My special Z buddy....part mechanic, part driver, and just an all round great person to have around at shows and the track. Checking out the fuel pump Having the S30 vs laters years debate Getting ready to "Slay The Dragon" Another great morning

Axxis Metal Masters

Use a 22mm socket to remove the nut, then use a pulley puller to get the wheel off

Nice

You have a valid point Mike, size does matter to some. I have been wanting to get a nice DSLR for some time, but have beem making do with a Fuji Finepix...it is nice and small, but like the Nikon Coolpix I had before it, is a little slow to take the photo.

Agree with above, pass the crack pipe this way and just get some nice H4s. Hell I would like to see HID's get outlawed in the states if they are not gonna follow E-code

He loves it. Except when he fell asleep while I was tearing up The Dragon. He lost his breakfast, woke up crying, then said, "Lets Go Daddy" meaning he was awake now and ready to tear it up some more!

And sometime Driver

My Mechanic

Both taken on The Tail of The Dragon

I had to vote other. Used to work in a shop (sorta just hang out there alot and it turned into work for shop space and parts) and we did alot of Hybrid stuff there for the times (96-98), like stock 75 injection into a 72, VG30T into a RHD 76, numerous Ford 5.0 swaps...some turbo some N/A, we even turboed a VG30 for a Pathfinder. We did alot of injection swaps and turbo swaps into 240's...WA still smogged 240's then so to beat smog...get rid of the carbs.

You can pretty much mount it anywhere, just so long as it is near the tank and somewhat below if not level with it. Once the pump starts flowing fuel it will creat a siphon effect and continue to pump fuel even if the fuel level is below the level of the pump.

I think everyone here needs to remember that in our application...the tripples are being used as a performance upgrade. When these carbs were used in OEM applications (Alfas, Fiats, etc) in Italy, they were choked down quite a bit. Like a 2litre Alfa eunning 2X 40DCOM with 28mm chokes. That is a 28mm choke on a 500cc cylinder!! There was almost no hesitation on these motors due to the high velocity of the air in the carb. In our case, to optimize HP in our motors....we run 30 or 32mm chokes on a 2.4litre or 32-34mm chokes on a 2.8litre. That is a 30mm choke on a 400cc cylinder. It WILL hesitate at lower RPM, and there is nothing you can do about it...short of creating a way too rich progression mixture or way too rich accell circuit stream. It is simple physics. I have the same issue and I am using a 33mm choke, that is 33mm choking down 466cc. The car screams like a banshee after 2500rpm, but try to nail it below that and it falls flat on its face. There was and old saying in racing many years ago.."Squeeze on throttle, Squeeze on brakes" If you drive a triple carbed Z that is tuned for performance, you have to drive it this way...IE like a race car...be gentle with the throttle until you get the RPM up into the working range for your exact carb / cam selection and setup, then you can nail it.

It is possible that the only "Bob Sharp" part on these wheels is the center cap...worth looking into though

Hell yes, snatch them puppies up.