rturbo 930

Not likely to happen in Rhode Island. Anyways - Here's my basic list of what's acceptable, and what isn't. Obviously, you'll want to use a little discretion based on your skills, budget, and the severity of the rust. Our west coast members will probably disagree with my list, but whatever. And you need to accept that you will most likely have to do some sort of rust repair. I don't believe in rust free Zs, but a west coast car would be your best bet for a nearly rust free chassis. Acceptable: Floors Hatch sill Doglegs Fender bottoms (which can sometimes mean rocker rust) Rear lower quarters Fenders lips Batt. Tray And depending what the rest of the car looks like, the TC Rod reinforcement area and maybe rockers, depending how bad they are. When the rockers need to be replaced, you really need to consider how much other rust there is, and whether it's worth fixing. Unacceptable: Inner Rockers Roof pillars (Unless it's VERY minor) Engine bay frame rails Firewall/Cowl intersection Strut towers If any of these are rusted, most likely the car has rust in every area in the 'acceptable' list as well, and is not worth dealing with.

Why not an RT diff mount?

RebekahsZ had a thread on this recently - here it is: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/118168-steering-rack-parts-availability/ Maybe PM him to see what his experience was with the datsunpartsllc rack.

Just noticed that the forum time is off. Currently says it's 8AM (it's 3PM). I checked my time zone settings, and they're fine.

I feel like the European/Japanese/Australian market would be more willing to spend the money on a head like this, since Zs seem to more expensive/rare in those parts. American Z owners are cheap. That said, I think $10k is still pretty cheap for such a custom piece.

Doesn't help that his is a late 280z. An early 280z should be a bit lighter.

How did you do the conversion, just LED replacement bulbs? Or is there more to it (flasher relays?) Just noticed your bumper sticker - classic, haha.

^I can tell you a 6v53 w/ 5spd weighs around a ton.

^ I had more to say but thought better of posting it

That's surprisingly affordable - at least in terms of custom made DOHC heads go. Hopefully you'll still be producing these by the time I can afford one.

I think the thread got lost in the crash, but he had a thread here asking if anyone spoke spanish. I'm guessing his english is pretty limited.

In terms of looks, I think it looks out of place. Do a search on the splitter that 240hoke made. Not sure if the pics would still be up as it was probably 6+ years ago. Not sure how functional it was, but it looked decent.

Holy shit! Subbed!!!

A 280Z 2+2 for 10k. What a deal. Edit: And an E30 M3 for 250k USD. E30s, especially M3s have gone up in price... but not that much.

How bad are your floors? New floors definitely need a little massaging, so if you don't have to, I wouldn't replace the entire floor. 240Zs have an issue with the floors bending up when people use the subframe as a jacking point, but 280Zs don't really seem to have that problem. The rails under a 280z are much stronger, and so is the floor, so even though my rails look like they're caved/bashed in, the floor is pretty much perfect. But the reason I suggested leaving some of the original floor, is because bad dog's 280z subframe rails don't have a flange like their 240z rails do. I am certainly not an expert on the matter, but if you think about it a bit, having the flange there definitely seems like a good idea since whatever load/force the subframe rails put on the floor is more spread out. If/when I ever get to the point of doing my frame rails my plan is cut off the stock subframe rails and leave maybe 1/2" to an inch as sort of a flange to weld the bad dog rails to, using spot welds, vs just butt welding them to the floor. I don't know if that's the "right" way to do it, but it seems better than butt welding them. That's my take, for whatever it's worth.

I would cut out the rest of the factory rails. IMO installing the bad dog rails straight on top is asking for rust issues in the future. I'm not sure how tight a fit they are, but you might leave a little but of the original rails as something to weld to if the fit is good enough.

Are you determined to use the BW T5? Look into using a 240sx KA 5 speed - aka FS5W71C. IMO it has better gear ratios, and it's an easier swap. Here's some good info on that swap: http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/transmission.htm I realize this doesn't exactly answer your question... but I thought I'd put it out there.

If you registered in the last week, then your account would have been lost in the site crash, as well as any posts you made.

Looks phenomenal man. Although, I'm curious why you didn't straighten out your lower fender before paint? Just noticed that.

I think it's a bit more serious than that - there's a week's worth of posts missing.

I think you're being a bit too picky. It's 40 years old. What exactly are you expecting? It's not going to be perfect.

Sell both, buy an LS1.

Where's it going? Eiji or Rebello? Edit: Didn't read, it's going to Eiji. Keep us posted on your experience with him. I've heard tons about people who have dealt with Rebello, but not much about those who have dealt with Eiji.

Yeah, his flares are uncut, but the drawback is that your car will always look a bit like a 4x4 if you don't want it to rub. Easier to leave them uncut, than to cut them, and then decide to go back though. Do you have pics of the works flares? If they're the ones I'm thinking of, I think they're a bit overkill. I suggested orange since it seems like you want a fairly loud color. I don't know what you have in mind, but I think 907 green, 901 silver, or the burgandy color that came on the factory 240ZGs would all be good choices if you decide against 112 yellow. You should be able to fit a 10" wheel under a standard ZG flare with the right offset. If that isn't wide enough there's wide ZG flares too. Anywho, more pics. #1, I believe these are wide ZG rear flares. #2, 112 Yellow, with gray/gunmetal bumpers, to give you an idea of how the two colors look against each other. More here http://inzane240.blogspot.com/

I was gonna bust your balls about flaring thcar, especially considering how solid it is, but I guess someone beat me to the punch. Anyway, what kind of flares are we talking about? ZG Flares? Might look okay with 112 yellow, with black flares. I think Z-Gad's 240z is 919 yellow, which is similar, with ZG flares. but since you're also putting on a G nose, I think 918 orange paint with gray/gunmetal flares and bumpers would look appropriate. Here's some pics... first is Z-Gad's, second is Eiji's (Datsun Spirit) 240z, which isn't 918, but close enough. Paint matched flares can look good IMO - last pic is gmac708's '70 Z.