rturbo 930

I think Joe has the right idea. First I'd try opening the driver's front, and take out the pass quarter window, and see what kind of flow you get. Then try putting the quarter window back in, and opening the hatch a bit - maybe 4-6 inches, I think. Basically, you need a crossflow (thanks for that tip, dad). The deflector is a good idea too - hadn't thought of that.

Yup, the rain gutter is two pieces spot welded together. I think deleting the drip rail is sort of similar to cutting for flares. You cut off the spot welded lip holding the two together, and then you weld the two pieces back together. I think it was blueovalz that had a thread that detailed the process. Personally, I think I would look at simpler solutions for getting more air in the cabin before cutting off the drip rails. Especially since you're in the PNW. BTW, are you having trouble getting air in with both windows open or just one? In my Jetta, I get a lot more airflow if I open the driver's front and the pass. rear, than if I open, say, both driver's side windows, or just the driver's side front.

Well, looks are of course subjective... with that said: 1) The headlight buckets. Sorry to say, but I don't think you did a good job with those. Simply adding in metal to make the fenders wider makes the buckets look smaller, and the car, fatter. I'm not sure what I would have done to fix this, but I don't think it looks right as is. Maybe it would've been better to make a wider hood? I don't know. 2) I never would have guessed that it was longer - I think your wheel choice might not be helping this, but between the additional width, and the lower rockers and rear quarters (if they aren't lower, they at least look lower), the car looks more short and squat to me. 3) I think an airdam that stuck out more (forward) would help. The way it is (going more inward), it makes the car look shorter. Wheels with some dish I think would help too. My 2 cents. I appreciate that you're trying something different than what most people do and I think you have some good ideas, but to my eye, it needs a little tweaking. +1 on what NewZed said... half the pics I can't see.

Looks mean! And I really love that color. Great choice.

It's different, but I think he kinda messed up the proportions

Floors and subframe rails under the floor, sure, but dude, your engine bay rails are shot! Not exactly 'fine' lol. I guess it shouldn't be too hard if you know what you're doing, I'm guessing you do since you don't seem worried about it. What do you have in mind?

Looks like you've got some serious rust to fix. Any pics of the whole car?

NewZed nailed it. I'm really not trying to be mean, but you don't even know how much you don't know. You don't seem to have any understanding of exactly how much effort it takes to swap an engine. If you're asking what a ft/lb is, there is simply no way you can handle swapping an engine. And how could you possibly know what engine you want to swap in if you don't even know anything about the original engine, or even how the car drives? You said you wanted 200hp, but I'm wondering if you have any point of reference for how much power that is. I really don't know what to tell you. Again, I'm not trying to be mean, but I don't think we've ever actually had a member here ask what a ft/lb is. You really need to take a step back, and start by learning the basics, and at this point, I'm thinking that would mean getting some friends with cars, and hanging out with them, or picking up a magazine subscription. You're a very long way off from buying a project car, much less working on one.

If this is the kind of question you're asking, quite honestly, you're just not ready for a project. Not even close.

Where exactly was it? I'll have to take a look at mine.

This one?

The advantage of the Ford 8.8 is that it has a very good, and affordable gear selection, and it is also a lot lighter than an R230. I believe it's actually just a few pounds heavier than an R180. Personally I'd go for the Ford diff over any of the Nissan diffs.

Wow, I guess it made quite a difference!

Yup, it's 20g. And generally, whatever you cut out, you want to replace with the same. I'm sure you could, but I wouldn't use 16g.

Bottom right

Have you thought about swapping to a Ford 8.8? Gears are stupid cheap. I wasn't totally sold on it, until I found out it weighs less than an R200, and has a great gear selection.

Go read my reply to your other thread. You're new, and clearly clueless (which is okay, we all started there), but you need to READ. A LOT. You seem to be new to cars entirely, and if you jump into what you're talking about without educating yourself beforehand, your project is going to be a disaster. Since you're totally new to cars, I would recommend you get something that is totally stock, running, and complete, and just work on getting that one into shape. That would really be the best place for you to start, IMO. I think a 75 280z would be best for you. A 280z, because it's already fuel injected, and a 75 because you're in CA, and cars 75 and older are exempt from smog testing.

I agree, that does sound really heavy for what it is, and it's in one of the worst places it could be. You should definitely be able to take some weight out of it. Maybe take a hole saw to some of the metal structure, and just make a 2 piece FG airdam and splitter? Looks like your airdam is FG over wood, which won't be light. And as 310z mentioned, I think you may want to balance out that front end downforce with a rear spoiler. This one should help: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic02a01e/50-1606

Definitely the worst part of the build process, haha.

IMO the engine is gives the Z a lot of its character, and a modern motor especially will ruin that character.

That's a gorgeous Z, Andreas.

A 75 is much different than a 78. But my guess is those holes might have been drilled for rustproofing of some sort. My 71 has holes in about that location for the same reason. Although they should have a plug of some sort in them, and the hole looks a little bigger than what I have, so I don't know.

Doesn't do it for me... Doesn't fit the body lines of the Z at all IMO. And the rear wheel arch looks wonky.

Looks like a Z to me... I think the picture just doesn't show it well, so it's a little misleading. Hood bulge and roofline are the giveaways for me. I think the shadows in the pic make the sugar scoops look smaller than they are.

Been there, done that. Still haven't heard from anyone who actually bought one though. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/105054-replica-240z/