ktm

There is a Youtube video where someone tests the LS1, truck and "new" truck coils with the heat sink. The new truck coils were definitely throwing a hotter spark. However, they appear to have an odd mounting arrangement and would not fit on RTz's mount.

Tony, you gotta hook me up with your "dealer" if you are getting 100 octane for $6 a gallon. It's been $8 to $9 a gallon at the pump since 2008. I used to blend my fuels to get around 95 octane for a bit of added insurance.

Thank you for the inspiration. Now whenever I feel like I am having a bad car day, I'll just remember that there are those out there that have had worse. Lunching a turbo is pittance compared to that carnage. The shaft between the compressor and exhaust wheels broke on my turbo at 15 psi. I had a smoke screen behind me that would have hidden a Panzer battlion.

Same temps as I see except I run up to 22+ psi, intercooler and a T03/04E turbo. When I am injecting methanol I see around 45 to 50 degrees (sometimes colder).

These are old pictures (MSA 2008) Ron's setup is nearly the same save for the mounting bracket for the coils. I am using LS1 coils from a Trans Am and run uses the truck coils. They are different.

Not entirely correct. Ron used the distributor from an 82/83 turbo with the CAS. I am using the same setup on my car and use LS-1 coils. I may eventually go to a trigger wheel, but for now I am happy.

It's not worth discussing as it has been extensively covered in the sticky at the top of the forum.

Correct. The highest pressure in the cooling system is immediately after the pump, the lowest pressure is right before the pump. If you understand fluid mechanics, the radiator cap actually sees some of the lowest pressure in the cooling system as it is far downstream of the pump. Those of us blocking the heater bypass line are also running a turbo setup with a coolant cooled turbo. I've tapped #5 and #6 and route one to the turbo and the other to the lower t-stat housing. The turbo coolant drains to the water pump inlet. In this way I get some circulation prior to the t-stat opening up. The localized hot spots jasper is referring to are well known in the L6 heads. They occur around cylinders 5 and 6. Again, read the sticky at the top of the L6 forum. This thread should be deleted as it has been extensively discussed in the L6 forum.

Same. It's a pearlescent orange if I remember correctly. Gorgeous color. I also like the Nissan Solar orange as well. z-ya's orange is a great choice too.

Um, the transmission has no bearing whatsoever on the bearing collar. None. Zip. Zilch. Nada. You are wrong. I used the same collar with a 1971 4-speed, 1978 5-speed, and 1992 Z32 5-speed. The collar depends on the clutch pressure plate.

Not to mention that his tune was for an assumed stock F54 (dished?) block and is not setup for a 0.30 over N42 with flat top pistons..... His tune IS his problem and it will only be worse with his new block.

My lines are very short as well. My 3 qt tank is between the clutch master cylinder and the inner fender under the inspection hood. I use stainless steel tubing from the tank to the pump which is located about even with the water pump pulley along the inner fender. My line from the pump to the solenoids is less than 1 foot long of stainless steel tubing. The tank is wrapped in heat reflective tape and the feed hose to the pump is wrapped in flame retardant reflective insulation from Goodridge.

You missed the part where he upgraded the fronts too. Just be careful after you install the setup. Head out to a deserted stretch of road and do some hard stops and see which end locks up first.

The wiring diagrams aren't meant to break the harness down wire by wire, you do that by applying your brain and looking at the pretty colors in the wiring diagram and then matching them on the harness. Or, you look at the harness, see what it connects to and then look for that connection in the wiring diagram. If you can't decipher a wiring diagram or are unwilling to learn, then go and pay someone to fix your problem.

It really depends on the efficiency of the IC, the intake air temperature pre-compressor, the amount of water injected, the humidity of the air pre-turbo, boost pressure, the temperature at which the air charge leaving the compressor, etc. Look up psychrometric curves for a better understanding. It is not very straight-forward. Basically, hot air holds more water than cold air. Air is hotter leaving the compressor and can hold more water for a given pressure. As the air charge drops pressure and drops in temperature, condensate forms.

John, I am running FJO Racing's setup which pressurizes the system to 120 psi and utilizes high speed solenoid valves that are PWM controlled. I have two 700 cc/min injectors (1400 cc/min total). I was spraying 100% methanol but am now running a 60/40 meth/water mixture. Taking out the heat of combustion does not increase power, it allows you to run more boost or increase timing for a given boost level that increases power. Cooling the air charge increases power by the increase in air density. Methanol is more effective at cooling the charge than water and has the added benefit of increasing your fuel's octane. I am not going to get into which one is better because I don't know and it is the topic of MANY debates. The Subie crowd swears by Aquamist and their insistance on water injection. The Regal boys over at Turbobuicks.com swear by Alkycontrol and 100% meth. I was replacing up to 25% of my primary fuel with methanol when using 100% methanol. I would love to run E85 in my car, but good luck finding local gas stations that carry it. It is has hard to find an E85 station as it is finding a station that carries 100 octane at the pump or a methanol supplier! I would not rely on methanol and or water injection alone in-lieu of an IC unless you had quite a few redundant safe guards built into your setup. The IAT post-IC on my car is around 100 degrees F; after injecting methanol my IATs were down around 40 to 50 degrees (the pipe was nice and cold).

Joel, my Speedhuts were around $750 for the speedo, tach, oil pressure, boost, afr, water temp, volt meter and fuel gauges. I did not go with the Revolution water temp, fuel gauge and volt meter as I did not need the fancy electronics with those simple gauges. Link to the thread: Clicky

First, what year car do you have? A Haynes, Chilton or Factory Service Manual will have a wiring diagram. You can also find wiring diagrams for 240z - 280z's by doing a quick Google search (I just did it and found a FANTASTIC diagram at the top link).

I'll chime in on my extremely positive Beta Motorsports experience as well. John installed a set of Bad Dog frame rails and sub-frame connectors for me back in February 2010 as well as do a few minor fabrication details for me. He was very forthright with his schedule for when I could drop my car off, when it would be available, set me detailed photos of the progress during the work, etc. His shop is close to me and arranged for me to drop my car off on a Saturday morning. I need to get back to John to weld in a patch panel as well as take care of a few minor issues.

Edit: Wait, I am confusing the gauge lights ground. They ground on the housing. Review the wiring diagram again and you'll see that the water temp, fuel/oil and tach are all on the same fused circuit. Follow the YR lines on the water temp and fuel/oil gauges and the positive terminal on the tach. Check the fuse as well.

The 240z gauges do not share a common ground.....well, I guess they do in a sense. The gauges ground themselves on the gauge housings.

How are are you going to run the lines from the tank to the pump and pump to the nozzles/injectors? My setup feeds my pump by gravity which is nice since it is self priming. I kept cracking the damn nylon hose right at the compression fittings, so I ran all stainless steel hardlines from my tank to the pump and pump to the two high speed solenoid injectors.

Correct. I am running the 240sx rear brakes as well but I also have the vented 4x4 brakes up front. You really need to run a proportioning valve when using the 240sx rear disc setup. Zmanco, I agonized forever over this setup as I was worried about too much front bias, too much rear bias, etc. In the end I went with the Porterfield R4S in the front and the discs ross sells with his setup (I can not remember their name at this time). My rears locked up first with the valve all the way open and I was able to dial in the bias.

You could always buy a different tank. I bought mine after searching for hours for a specific dimension tank to fit my particular location. I bought mine from US Plastic, but after just checking their website I see they no longer carry the style I am using.

I would not want a meth tank in the car with me. Simply attach a float to an LED for level indication. There are a few meth injection kit suppliers that have these set-ups pre-made. I have a 3 quart tank mounted under the inspection panel on the driver's side.