ktm

I pull the studs first whenever I remove the head. It makes it so much easier to remove and install.

I am, but when I replumb my car in the next few years I will run hard lines.

Tony, thanks for the tip about the fan settings. No more overheating issues.

+12345 Torque in 3 stages of 20 ft-lbs up to 60 ft-lbs and call it a day.

It's typically not the wires but the connectors and terminals that are the problem.

It really depends on the wheel. I like old school wheels and would be very interested if the style is right.

That's because it is not internally baffled. There are two types of can's being discussed here, one for overflow and the other for blow-by from the crankcase and valve cover. You need a can that is baffled for the latter. Even the Greddy units are junk because they are not baffled.

Oh my, some very lovely noises! The S30 sounded great as did that Mustang.

Oh man, was not expecting that! Definitely groovy

As are mine. You assumed I was referring to the pre-pump filter, but I clearly stated post-pump. I was replying to rossman who stated that a 40 micron was recommended by Aeromotive after the fuel pump.

You are missing something: http://aeromotiveinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/11101.pdf Says to install a 12301 filter post-pump: http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-page/fuel-filters/page/2/ A 12301 is a 10 micron filter.

Does anyone care to share their start-up fuel settings (pulse-width versus temperature)? I am looking for a jump start to give me an idea of the relative increase in fuel requirements with temperature.

Doh, double-post.

The filter sizes are not recommended in the applications you listed. The 40 micron should go before the pump and a 10 micron should be installed after the pump. Aeromotive makes a nice high flow 10 micron filter.

Long time no see buddy! I have and I was also pulling timing and adding boost. However, I abandoned the setup after my trial. I even used a metal box I picked up from an industrial electronics store and I installed 3 potentiometers inside. I still have the box and all the wiring if interested. In order to do it correctly you need to use the multicontroller channels in conjunction with other inputs and then use the output from the multicontoller channels to the special trim features. I use the multicontroller channels to pull fuel and add timing for my methanol setup based on methanol line pressure.

You really won't get it truly flat again. The best you can do is get a ball perm hammer and some to place on the back side of the hole. Hammer lightly to flatten the lip around the hole Repeat for all deformed holes. Reassemble the pan and put black RTV on the pan side of the gasket.

If you can't attest to how it works and have not even installed it yet, then how can you say that the quality top notch?

I agree. I've started drinking more and more premium Tequila's lately and have to say I thoroughly enjoy their flavor. It is true that the range in quality is quite broad. A good Anejo is incredibly smooth (think Irish whiskey smooth.....only smoother) and the blue Aguave adds a very delicious element.

You got it sparky. First you have to get the old bearing off unless you bought a new collar. The new bearing is pressed onto the end of the collar. It will all make sense when you see the old setup once you drop the tranny. Make sure you not which end of the bearing rests against the pressure plate fingers. The bearing and collar are one unit that slides on the input shaft. The collar has two little tabs towards the bottom where you attach a clip/spring. Do not lose the spring/clip if you did not buy a new collar. The fork slides under the tabs on the collar. The spring/clip is affixed to the collar and it has two arms that will slide onto the back of the fork. If you are talking about the little knobs that circle the collar right below the bearing, then no, there is no specific orientation that the tabs must be in (as far as I know). When you drop the tranny take time to look at the fork/collar/bearing arrangement before you disassemble them. It will all become clear.

Looks good. Two quick comments. 1) The Greddy unit is not really efficient as a catch can. It is not internally baffled and is just a big can. 2) You have the crank case breather connected to one side of the can and the valve cover vent to the other? If so, that is a big no no. You need a vacuum source on the catch can as well as a PCV valve on the crank breather. You are going to pressurize the valve cover with the crank case pressure.

They are talking about removing the old throwout bearing from the throwout collar and pressing the new bearing onto the collar. You can do this with a vice if you are careful not to compress the new bearing too hard. The bearing is sealed so you do not pack that with grease. They are most likely talking about putting grease inside the throwout collar prior to mounting it on the input shaft. How are the instructions vague? Do you not have an FSM or Hayne's manual? Here is a link to download a manual for the z31 ZX: http://carfiche.com/manuals023/cars/ If it says TnA, just come back later as stated on the website.

Here is my Speedhut gauge install thread clicky clicky The speedo has integrated turn signal and a high beam indicator.

Exactly. Alex over at Vildini Motorsports built my 3-in. turbo back exhaust for $400 to $450 (I can't recall exactly) and I had to supply the muffler (Borla XR-1). All mandrel bent pipes, custom fit to my exact specifications and car, and the DP has two O2 sensor bungs. If you think that $500 is too much for a "piece of pipe", you build one and sell it for less.....or learn the skills to do it yourself.

Please, if you do not know then do not post. You "heard" you can go up to 350 hp with modifying the internals? Big Phil, jc052685, jeffp, and myself (and others) have all gone over 400 wheel ft-lbs of torque on a stock bottom end.