ktm

Just dissected the turbo. The nut holding the compressor wheel came OFF and went into the wheel. The turbo is TOAST. I just hope the engine internals are ok..... Does anyone have Thagard's contact information? I know he moved to South Carolina in Mayish.

Was out doing some tuning runs and purging my meth injection lines of water. I was simply doing a third gear pull when all of a sudden I start POURING smoke out of my exhaust. I stop the car and hear something like a ball bearing bouncing around inside the exhaust housing as the turbo is spooling down. It develops NO boost whatsoever now and just pours smoke.

A brand spanking new Garrett T03/04E 50 trim I bought from James Thagard back in April 2007. Will the problems never f***ing end?!? Sigh....

I am going to install a removable heat blanket around my intake manifold. I'll remove it for showing and wrap the intake when driving.

I got mine from the same place, though mine does look a little different. It's hard to tell from that angle. Still, I've had no problem with mine at all. Depending on your vacuum, you may want to shim the spring a bit or buy a Tial spring. I need to add more shims to mine as it is open during cruising.

Wigen, I am using a similar BOV. No boost leaks or compressor surge, even at 18ish psi.

Ok. Set the dwell on the coils to around 6 ms. Plugs need to be gapped closer anyway at 15 psi. The stock gap for NGK BPRES6-11 is 0.044", far too much for 15 psi. I found that I had to gap, up the dwell slightly, and lean out to keep from misfiring. I am running an L28ET, but my AFRs are 12 at 15+ psi. Not a misfire to date since the changes.

z-ya did some testing in the Megasquirt forum on the LS1 coils. He found that they'll take up to 7 - 8 ms before saturation. I am running mine at 6 ms to combat high boost miss issues (in conjunction with gapping plugs, etc.). I am running up to 18 psi right now with 20 to 23 psi in my near future. I am using Wolf to drive them. What are your AFRs at 15 psi and 6000 rpm? What do you mean, breaking down? Are you missing at that point?

I just finished up my installation and have started preliminary testing of my meth injection setup. I am using one of Wolf's AUXLS channels that has PWM capabilities to control the FJO Racing meth injector. My injection map is RPM and Load based, just like fuel injection. It works beautifully. Secondly, I setup a failsafe so that the primary fuel and ignition map will switch automatically to the secondary map incase of a pump failure, clog, etc. The switching is seamless and the only way I know that my maps have switched is by an LED that I connected that informs me I am on the secondary map.

I successfully connected my LC-1 to Wolf.

BRAAP, for some reason my car did not like 7s. I kept missing like crazy at higher loads, even when gapped down to 0.025". I put 6s back in, gapped at 0.03", and the miss is gone. Still, each engine is unique. I may try 7s again, but I am now injecting meth so my cylinder temps should not be as high as without. As an aside, I was out testing the setup today using washer fluid. Apparently I was adding TOO much water, as my spool time INCREASED dramatically. My EGTs were a little TOO cool. The thread you linked is a GREAT resource of information. I was looking at pulling timing and adding fuel to cylinders 5 and 6 (I am full sequential) to help cool those cylinders. I blew my HG twice at #5 and #6. I am now running 100% distilled with water wetter and a 160 degree thermostat. The car has never run this cool.

Still hoping for some input.

You have to use the 7MGE clips out of the Supra. No other Toyota has these clips. The Camrys and Corollas of the same years used similar clips, but the two tabs are in the wrong location.

My P90a cam was recently reground after an incident where a hydraulic lifter backed out and collapsed. I just installed the new cam and while the car purrs like a kitten from 1200 rpm on, it idles rough. I was pulling a rock steady 18 in Hg vacuum at idle before the cam incident, now I pull 10 to 12 "shakey" in Hg at idle. However, at 1200 rpm I pull 18 in Hg. No vacuum leaks that I could detect and the car pulls hard and strong through the RPM ranges. I pull 15 in Hg while cruising like normal and I'll go form 15 in. Hg to 12 psi boost in 500 rpm. Still, my idle is rough. I checked the lash on the rockers and as expected with a hydraulic cam, there is no lash. Any thoughts? Edit: I forgot to add that during a high RPM throttle lift, I'll pull 22-23 in Hg which is consistent with my old cam.

What orange is that?

FYI, Jeffp and I both have idle voltage issues. Jeff had a custom alternator made to satisfy his beast and I just deal with it. I did the GM alternator conversion as well and my ECU has a voltage compensation table, so I just bumped up the injector MS as the voltage drops.

The 7MGTE injectors (Suprga Mk III) are rated at 440 cc/min. I have a set on my car and they were flow benched at 500 cc/min at 43 psi. No drilling is required when ussing these injec

Available at Pepboys or Autozone?

I just got my cam shaft back from the shop today. Their grinder did a complete weld/regrind of the entire cam, so it is basically brand new. I got a new rocker out of it as well as the old one was worn. I was not charged a dime. I must say, though, that either I am an 80lb weakling, was doing something wrong, or the springs were not stock. Sweet merciful crap, it took me 2 hours to get the rockers back on. Those springs were so damn stiff that I had to leverage them using two crescent wrenches, a 17 mm and 24 mm. The 17 mm crescent wrench fits perfectly on the two adjacent spring caps, and the 24 mm leveraged it down. Even then it took quite a bit of strength to keep the springs compressed as I struggled with the rocker and lash pad. Still, I got them all on and buttoned up the car. She purrs like a kitten now.

Hmmm, one something like a clutch, pressure plate and flywheel I believe you get what you pay for. Keep in mind that a Fidanza flywheel is $300 shipped and an ACT pressure plate and clutch disk is another $300. I would be leary of a $190 complete kit that includes a flywheel. Then again, that is me.

Good to see a Z at Coffee and Cars. I've been meaning to take my Z there, but it's been in various stages of driveability for a while now.

Or you can buy an adapter at www.stealthmodeperformance like I did.

He is just too lazy to call. I refuse to deal with emails for the exact reason he states about responding. If you CALL them, then you KNOW you have their attention.

If you use -3 AN, you do not need a restrictor. If you use -4 AN, you should run a restrictor.

http://www.edmunds.com/advice/fueleconomy/articles/106954/article.html Given the results of the windtunnel analysis and the mule's Cd of 0.47 versus that of the test car with the Bre spook and blocked front air dam of 0.40, I started wondering what were the gains to be had in fuel economy with the reduction in drag. One little heuristic that they quote is that for every 0.01 reduction in Cd, fuel economy increases by approximately 0.2 mpg for cars. While this is just a rule of thumb, it still gives us an idea as to fuel efficiency benefits of reducing drag. Here is a VERY interesting article as well: http://ecomodder.com/blog/2008/03/12/11-on-mods-plus-new-tires-car-and-driver-improves-mpg-by-25/