ktm

Not to mention that the line runs RIGHT by the exhaust housing and would most likely melt.

Ever thought of calling them?

Why are you routing your exhaust under the tank? According to your profile, you have a stock L28.....

Justin, it all depends on the price and the end fittings and O-ring size. I am using -6 lines and fittings with 11 mm O-ring injectors. Others may be -8 with 14 mm, or -6 with 14 mm, etc.

Vildini Motorsports in Mission Viejo specializies in SR20 swaps. Give them a call.

I can tell you that my Wolf'd L28 with the T03/04E setup is running cleaner than the old 1972 L24 with SUs simply by the amount of exhaust fumes that permeate my car. Before it was bad, even with the smog pump and stock smog equipment operational. Now there is almost no exhaust smell whatsoever with the windows down. I am running around 14 to 14.5 when cruising and up to close to the pressure ranges Tony talked about. I go a little bit higher simply because when driving up a hill in 5th gear your manifold pressure will increase (I typically see 7 to 10" vacuum when going up hill cruising). I am going to lean out even more and target 15:1 when cruising as well as bump my timing up to 42 or 44 degrees. Right now I am running 40 degrees when cruising.

At least she had insurance. A while back I was rear ended on I-5 during rush hour in LA. I was the lead car in a 3 car accident. The driver of the rear car fled on foot and abandoned his vehicle in the middle of the freeway during rush hour. My insurance paid for the repair, but they should not have had to.

Mark, the manifold was 40 degrees cooler, not the intake charge. The residence time of the air inside the manifold is so short that it will not be heated up (significantly) by the manifold. In my mind it's not worth ceramic coating the intake manifold unless you are always running the engine hard. I would spend the money and ceramic coat the exhaust manifold and downpipe. Your turbo exhaust housing is already coated, correct? Source reduction is the key.

Garrett, I know that the RX7, Evo and Buick crowd run around 20% meth as well. There is a great thread on RX7club.com (under Auxiliary Injection sub forum, its a sticky) about meth injection. Have you found that an AFR around 10.8 to 11 is ideal for your car?

Thanks Matt. I remember reading Vin's comment about your problem and I thought it was the faults. FYI, I've repaired my front end. I replaced the headlight bucket and painted it a close enough match to my car for now. I also put the stock valence back on and installed a CF Bre spook. The car looks better with the Spook than it did with the Kaminari.

Phil, you are running a Coolingmist setup, correct? If so, see if you can get their flow information from them. Secondly, you can back calculate what your meth flow rate is based on the changes to your AFRs that you logged. Saying that, it is my understanding that you do not have a means of adjusting your methanol flow rate with the Coolingmist system. You can change the nozzle size, but it is a "digital" system is that it is all or nothing. When tuning for meth injection, you still tune with AFRs. Do not get wrapped up in calculating what your meth flow rate is, simply tune your car for AFRs. Your calculations are theoretical at best. You still need to tune.

The problem is that your PCM has not been reprogrammed. Chances are you have a few faults due to no O2 sensors, etc. and the car will not stay running. AzizaZ had the exact same symptoms when his PCM was not reprogrammed.

Edit: Read too fast. Thanks!

Mark, they probably did not torque it to spec. The lifter simply threads into the head and it torqued like a bolt. The threads look fine and the lifter turns easily when threading it into the head. Ah well, I should have the new cam and rocker by Wednesday.

The latest event in my saga is my cam bit the dust. I have a P90a that was rebuilt back in November 2007 when I saw that I was losing coolant....that and when I did a compression test I had a geyser shooting out of cylinder #3. Anyway, recently I noticed a tapping coming from under the valve cover. When the head was fresh, it was SILENT. This tapping was rather obvious, not your normal lifter tick. When I removed the valve cover, the #3 cylinder (what is it with that cylinder) intake lobe was badly worn - there was a GROOVE in the lobe base circle! I checked the lifter to see if it had collapsed and upon touching it, found that the lifter had backed out! When it backed out, it lost oil pressure and did indeed "collapse". The lifter appears ok and I took the cam, lifter and rocker back to the machine shop after talking to them. They inspected the lifter and agreed that it should not have backed out. The rocker is gone too as it has a groove worn in it as well. In the end they are replacing the rocker and cam shaft, but this is yet another trial.

Tony (off topic), what about the corrosiveness of methanol on aluminum?

I just Paypal'ed you $290 Justin. $280 is for the intake flange, plenum base and shipping, $10 is for the 3.5% paypal fee. Edit: When shipping, please ship UPS if at all possible. USPS seems to be losing a few of my packages. They lost Gary's last set of clutch disks he sent to me.

Justin, I will have payment to you shortly. Edit: Too tired when I responded.

I opted for the FJO Racing setup. I know that Jeffp is using their injectors as well. I am using Wolf to PWM control the injector.

jeffer949, you tune for 10.8 to 11. As I stated before, his AFR at 10.1 to 10.3 is too rich. Phil, like BRAAP and others have said, your stock manifold is what is causing your power to drop off after 4500 RPM. Nearly everyone running the same stock manifold experiences the same curve. My curves look just like yours.

First and foremost, are you upgrading your fuel management at the same time? With Supra 440cc injectors and the stock ECU, you will be running incredibly rich. Second, do NOT block off the PCV port out of the block. You need the crankcase pressure to vent, otherwise you will be leaking oil out of where ever it can find an out. At a minimum put a small filter on the end.

Garrett, with his Coolingmist setup you are probably correct. I am setting my system up for 20% fueling using a 700 cc/min injector. However, my calcs are showing 100% duty cycle at 20 psi before I hit 4000 rpm. I may need to go with a larger injector. I was just stating 20% replacement as that is a number thrown around by the Buick, RX7 and Evo crowds. Here is his log from the other thread: His AFRs are around 10.1 to 10.3ish. That is quite low and is costing him power.

Phil, you are running 100% meth, correct? If so, have you pulled primary fueling as compensation? Everything I have read on Turbobuick.com, RX7club.com and Evolutionm.net states that you need to pull primary fueling to compensate for the lower stoich ratio of meth. I keep running across 10.8 to 11.0 as the ideal AFR when spraying 100% meth, assuming you are displacing 20% primary fuel with meth. Jeffp, Bernard, 510six, Scottie, et. al. would be better sources of info on this topic. Paul, I talked to Ron about a possible temporary "replacement" for the stock manifold and that was to setup a PWM controlled boost solenoid (like I and Hugh are running) that would allow you to increase boost past peak torque.

I used the BPR7ES myself at 15 psi and switched back to 6s because I was still misfiring. I thought maybe the plug was too cold. I'll switch back to 7s for pre-ignition protection. Jeff, I found a great website as well for NGK plugs, its probably the same place (www.ngk.com - its not www.ngksparkplugs.com).