datman

Yes I agree, maybe it just needs a soft spring with a larger hose connection on the top to keep the pressure the same on each side. I still want to mess with an electric valve though just for my own amusement

Yes that's what I was thinking, I have a cheap collins style BOV....looks like a small cylinder with a piston and a spring holding the piston down, the spring is so stiff and the amount of vacuum pullingon the piston is not enough to lift it without a fair amount of pressure acting on the underside. I've been looking at Gas valves used on heating systems, they seem to have fast acting solenoids that will do the trick maybe triggered by a vacuum operated switch or just from a basic throttle position micro switch.

Mario, yes you're right that's what should happen but it's most likely the very expensive BOV's that actually do just that. Thanks for the info Olderthanme, http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_12052_761991_-1_11283 Little expensive though. Looks like a regular BOV but with a solenoid fitted. Should be fairly easy to make something like that. I'll try the regular BOV, then I'll try a homemade electronic Bov and post my results.

As I am about to finish my l28 ET project I've been looking into choices for dump (BOV) valves. It seems if you want high boost you need a strong spring which in turn will put extra load on the trubo before venting..the whole setup seems a bit basic considering todays technology. I was think of controlling a BOV using a solenoid which could be linked to a throttle switch or even to Megsquirt. Another idea would be to place another throttle body in front of the compressor and have it slightly offset to the main TB causing a vacuum and keeping the compressor wheel spinning, I know thisis possible as it was used in F1 racing years ago, I just wondered if anyone here had tried to make it work? I think the turbo must have carbon seals to stop it drawing oil although this could be worked around by routing the oil drian into a catch tank which would be at the same pressure as the inlet. what do you guys think?

fiveO gives great value , I got my 650cc 14mm injectors from them for a decent price.

Thanks BRAAP, I have some waterproof multi pin conectors on order, I am going to make a loom so I can unplug the manifold wiring in one go. I'd like to make the throttle work by cable instead of linkages, will have to try and fab something up to go on the throttle body.

Hey guys just though I'd post a couple of pics of my intake manifold to see what you think. I have an n42 intake manifold modified to take delphi 650cc injectors, I also ended up modifying the Pallnet fuel rail as I bought the 11mm version but needed 14mm, look prety nice.

Silver Z's seem very popular in this thread

I was going to ask the same question. BTW very nice install!!

Too true, my brothers race car has an Audi 1.8 turbo engine kicking out 470bhp @14psi boost.....he spent weeks working on the head and intake manifold.

Thanks Guys, good to know it will be fine. Now I have a horrible feeling the oil thrower wasn't on its key when I installed the front cover! Arghhhhh!

I had an N42/N42 combo,,,,2mm shaved off the head 0.6mm head gasket, dished pistons. stage 3 cam. tripple webers 36mm chokes, nismo exhaust manifold 2.5 inch system. went like Sh*t off a shovel!

Hi Guys I'd like a little advice please. I just rebuilding my F54/p90 using a 2mm head gasket. I fitted the new timing chain and tensioner/sprockets today and its seems very tight. When I turn the crank to allow slack at the tensioner there only about 1mm of the tensioner shaft showing and hardly any play in the chain....is this normal consdiering the head gasket and new chain? Any advice would be a great help. Thanks

Great work , any info on Delphi (17113814-72) 650cc injectors?

I took my old fuel tank to a Guy near me, he is making an aluminum copy of it, biult in bafffle, will even accept the old fuel sender and have 8jic fittings in and out. Cost around $350. I did cut the wheel well out so the tank could be made larger. Might be worth checking to see if someone in your area could fab one up for you.

I have an R160 VLSD here, I've not looked inside it yet but will tonight and post some pics...mine has the input shafts with 2 missing splines. With no oil in both outputs turn the same way when you turn the input.

You could go with an n42/n42 and 2mm gasket gives you a cr 7.8:1 with dished pistons. don't use the hydraulic p90a go for p90 with solid lifters if you go that route. Cast pistons are ok as long as you keep things cool and don't let it pink(knock) stock manifold is good for 400hp. N42 NA manifold is good also. I have a spare p90 and n42 head here.

You can use the 2.8 from a NA car, use a thicker head gasket to drop the C ratio. F54 with flat top pistons p90 head and a 2mm steel head gasket would do the trick. You can buy the exhaust and inlet manifold from ebay, I've seen quite a few on there. PM me if you need to know anymore details. I'm in the UK.

I use to get really bad vibration above 70, tuned out to be the bolts that hold the diff to the moustache bar...tightened them up and its been good since

It did have a wild cam, decent exhaust manifold and CR of 10.5:1, ignition was 36 deg full in with vac advance disconnected. Pulled like a train from low down all the way to 7k. My idles were also 55f9's.

225 air 175 fuel!!! mine had 190 air/135 fuel and was still on the rich side.

Hi Guys I'm in the middle of builing an l28 turbo motor and just took my block to the machine shop to have the bores honed. The guy there told me they will need to be bored as there is to much wear. So I guess I need to buy some 87mm pistons...here are my questions. should I go forged or cast? not bothered about the cost. I'm keeping the standard l28 crank so I need pistons that will fit the l28 rods. Can anyone recommend a good source for these? what kind of piston/bore clearance would I need or is this specific to the piston used? Thanks in advance

http://s32.photobucket.com/albums/d39/golfg60gti/?action=view&current=sideviewzgarch.jpg I mounted mine after lowering the car, they are as low as I can get them...when I corner hard with a passenger in the car it rubs slightly on the flare. Mind you I didn't want rock hard suspension...only have 14" 150lb/inch springs on the back but my dampers are adjusted hard. Also my exhuast drags when I drive over sleeping policemen! thats the UK name for speed bumps