Mike C

Bueler? Bueler? Figured I would try this one more time before just diving in...

I'm getting ready to dive into mine. Wonder if any body else can tell me their setup on a 2.8l motor? Idle jets, main jets, etc. How many turns on the mixture screw?

There are different clutch forks as well. I have either a wrong fork or collar on myk 240mm clutch/T5 setup. I fudged by putting a smaller bore 240sx slave on it to get it where I can drive it, but I need to pull it apart again. I bought a new collar and fork for the T5 and turbo clutch setup just so I know I have all the right parts next time. I may or may not keep the SX slave depending on how it feels. The early 240's also had a smaller bore slave than the 72 and up cars.

The Edelbrock triangle tends to backfire and catch fire... Most of these are not cheap, but they are quite a bit more low profile than the aftermarket ones. The first here is the cheapest. The repro 67-69 Z/28 air cleaner is just about the lowest base you can get. While it works great on a Holley, not sure on clearance with a Carter/Weber/Edelbrock. You can buy just the base or a complete assembly. I think the base is $49 and you can add your top? http://www.rickscamaros.com/product.asp?pf%5Fid=EP%2D116&dept%5Fid=3152 How about a 67-69 cowl indudction air cleaner and put a real cowl induction scoop on? Another neat choice would be a 70-72 Z/28 dual snorkel intake, but they are steep like the cowl induction setup. http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000136b~Z5Z5Z5AANPT~P204.95~~~~S2AV1242T371145113116e~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50000136b The real deal would be a 67 cowl plenum setup, but repros run just under $1000, but you could build your own. http://taperfresto.com/cowl_plenum_a_c.html

Come on guys, while a 350 will make more power than a 305, determine what the total project goal is. 305 is not a bad choice for a budget street Z. The 235 hp TPI motor with 5 speed is actually a killer Z car motor. Should easily put a 240 in the 12's and knock down 30 mpg. If you have to completely rebuild it, don't mess with the 305, but if it is in good serviceable shape, run it and work on the rest of the car. I've used my buddies car as an example quite a bit. He got a free TPI 305 from his dad with only 6k miles on it. With an SLP flat tappet cam and headers, it ran 13.90's in his '74 'vette convertible (a 3700# car). The car returned 27 mpg on the highway with 3.08 gears. If you want to build a race car, don't even consider the 305. But just bashing 305's because is passe. We had an '81 Jimmy that got 250k miles out of the 305 and a '78 Malibu wagon that got over 200k. If max output is the goal, why run a traditional small block at all? Just score an LS1. You found a 350 AND a T56 for $300 and you haven't bought it yet why?

Bend-Tech is the software and they have it in several different levels. Read all about notching tube, hydraulic conversion for benders, Bend-Tech and everything else here: http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/

Awesome job Terry. I'm gonna' build a header for my Jeep and you are making my future life easier!

I gave $75 for mine. It is a 12mm 3.54 geared unit from an '85 Turbo car that burned with only 50k miles on it. I swapped in a Precision Gear LSD (No spacers needed!) and the pinion yoke from a '78 R200 that I originally swapped into my car, and it was free from a buddy.

A proper carrier bearing puller will allow you to reuse the bearings. I swapped a Precision Gear LSD in my '95 12mm R200. It was a 3.54 geared unit from a Turbo car that burned with only 40k miles on the clock. All the bearings were perfect. I changed the front seal because I had to change the yoke. In my case, I did not pull the pinion either and backlash was identical when the PGLSD went in. Bearings are kinda' pricey so it may be worth a visit to a diff shop to get a quote on swapping them for you. I know I'd do it for $20 if the diff's were out.

I love my camera. One oc the hobbies you can do any where any time! You should be real happy with your D40. Just don't buy a long manual focus lens and hope to use it. Even though it will bayonet, you lose all your metering. This is true with my D70s even. I finally bought a D200 so I can use all my older Nikon stuff. I still take the film cameras out as they somehow just get you to think a little differently. That and it costs out the wazoo to get a lens that will shoot 18mm (in 35mm format) for the digital... My 18-200 vr is supposed to be here the 3rd. Woohoo!

69 was last year of 327 in passenger cars. Lots of times they soldiered on for several years in industrial applications such as combine harversters, boats, etc. The base V8 in a 69 Camaro was 327 through February or so of 69 when it was replaced with 307. 307 is large journal 3.25 stroke, but counterweights are a little different. My buddy found a 307 boat motor in the JY that had a steel crank (307 with a steel crank?!) and built a 4 bolt main 327 for his 70 Z/28. I have a 331 (.030) in my Jimmy. It's a large journal 327 crank in a 72 high nickel 4 bolt main 350 block. This is a great combo, but if you have to get a crank seems buying a cast steel 350 would be the way to go to use your existing pistons. If you are going to buy the pistons, rods, and a crank. Build a 383 IMO.

Lowes has their 60 gallon compressor (3.7 running hp I think) for $299 right now. I have a 5000 watt Coleman generator that I run a 5hp Coleman compressor on in our shed at the farm. Never tried a welder on the generator. I have an SA 200 Pipeliner which is a 300 amp DC gasoline welder, but unfortunately it is only 115v DC output for grinders, drills, saws, etc.

Wenco in Cali made mine. It's steel with the 1310 joint in the back on the NEAPCO adapter to my R200. In the front all they could find was the Nissan T5 yoke with the little joint. Do these T5's shafts have 1310 joints? One suggestion Wenco had was turning down I think a Chrysler 27 spline slip yoke OD to fit the Nissan spec seal. Anybody got u-joint size info on those shafts?

Except for our 2 BMW's ('95 and '03) I run Rotella T in everything else. It is great for older motors and the 15w40 is a great spread IMO. Heavier than the 10 wts, but not as heavy as th 20w50.

Top one is the glide, lower is the TH400. Notice the reinforcing ribs on the 400 case before the tailshaft housing. It is a short tail 400 as well. Both trans are BOP bellhousing pattern.

Nice project the guy put together and he's got a great personal story, too.

Good choice SuperDan! I bought the same ones from CB Performance for my DelLortos.

I have the ProTools 105 and am going to do a hydro conversion soon, but their mechanical benders are cool. This is the ultimate in homebuilt tube benders. http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=218

GM's Hydramatic division has both new 5 and 6 speed autos that will start showing up in more and more vehicles in the next couple of years. I think the Escalade is the first home for the 6 speed, with the top of the line Suburban and Tahoe next.

Tony D's answere was what mine was going to be, 3/4 of 360 deg. My buddy with a 70 GTO had the cam break between the bearing and the #7 and #8 lobes. Now THAT was a true 3/4 cam.

I have a Miller 375. It is either 120v or 240v which was a big seller as it could be moved around. I have 20 amp 120v circuits in my shop and have yet to run it on 240. It cuts 1/2" well on 120, but will throw the breaker after about a 4" cut. They claim 5/8" severs and I don't see why not since it cuts 1/2" on 120v. I don't use it a lot, but it totally kicks A when you need it. Never drill another rivet again!

Give Wenco in California a shot. The Nissan slip yoke is unique in spline count and OD. Or if you can machine yourself, In my discussions with them you can turn down a 27 spline Torqflite slip yoke to fit the Nissan seal and bushing and it uses the 1310. I think he wanted $40 more to do that on my custom shaft.

I think you are talking about the shielded rear seal? I had a Wenco shaft made for mine, they were very knowledgeable. The only available slip yoke for the Nissan BW trans is the OEM joint one. The guys at Wenco said they could turn down a Torqflite slip yoke to the proper OD for the Nissan seal and bushing and let you run 1310 joints. I used the Nissan yoke and joint on the front of mine and used a 1310 joint on the diff with the Neapco adapter. Google Wenco and give them a call.

Looks great. I have been very happy with my Eclipse seats in my 240. I also have a set of Talon sports seats that I used originally (For sale if anybody is interesteed!). I just like the color of the Eclipse seats better in my car. The Talon seat has adjustable pads on the fixed headrest which is kinda' cool in addition to the manual lumbar adjustment

Great stories. I do a board called Pirate4x4.com and they have lots of good and bad HF stories. You can find a link over there to a 20% off coupon for HF that they'll take even on sale items (just one item)! I got their metal cutting circular saw normally $99 on sale for $79 and then 20% off that. If you buy electric stuff, look at the designations. Some of it is UL, CE, CS approved and double insulated. That's the good stuff. The tools without the ratings stink it up. At least some of it is made by Jepson who is an OEM supplier as well.