Mike C

I KNOW there are a few other guys running Del's. How about weber guys? What main jets are you running on your 40mm carbs and what sort of engine mods do you have?

I've finally started to fine tune my Del'Lortos. I havd Des Hamill's book and it shows 140 as a main jet for a motor with about 480cc per cylinder which is perfect for my mild 2.9l motor. But mine has 115 mains! Anybody else with Del'Lortos able to tell me what your motor setup and main jets are? The rest of my carb setup is right in line with what the book suggests. On a sie note, anybody run the Innovate Motorsports LM-1 wide band O2 air fuel ratio monitor and data logger? I think I'm going to suck it up and get one. $349 seems kinda' pricey, but if it does what it says it might be worth twice that!

Your tap should be marked with the drill size you need.

What's rain? It's been 5 weeks since we've seen that kinda view.

The weld pak 100 is ok, but it does not come with gas solenoid and flow meter. Don't even try to do body work without the gas. The flux core is OK for building fences or other things, but sheetmetal work needs gas. If I buy a 110 welder, it will be the miller.

My car with 205 55 16's and the 3.54 turns 2500 @ 65 mph. Compared to the 4 speed and 3.36's, it's a highway monster. It actually loafs along enough where my underjetted accelerator pump circuit causes a hesitation when slightly increasing throttle as the road goes up and down.

I got mine from Reider racing. Somewhere if you search you'll find the write up. I'm pleased as punch. As noted above, the car just squirts out of the hole now and handling is at a whole different level. I kept the 3.54 gears that were in the '85 turbo diff. They are 12mm so did not require spacers and seem to be a good choice with the 3.50 first gear of the BW T5.

You can braze it. Even better you can braze a patch over it. If you are going to try and mig weld it (or even tig for that matter) as with the brazing, best to put a patch over it. Cleaning a crack of the oil will be difficult. For example, if the crack is 1" long, cut a patch 1" wide and 2" long and weld it around its circumference. Much less likely to burn a hole in the pan also this way as there's no edge of the pan exposed, just the patch.

Nice write up. That is a unique solution and looks like a winner!

I put a shielded K&N Valve Cover breather on mine. One designed to clamp on. I also have no issues with oil dripping.

Good advice. To clarify, a lean condition will cause the backfire back up the carb (and so will several other things, but this is the most likely scenario based on your descriptions) while overly rich backfires go out the exhaust. Generally.... R&R the carb, but buy a book. A Q-jet is a fine piece of equipment, but is way more complicated that a few posts on a message board can explain. $50 should get you a book and rebuild kit.

Damaged spider gear cross shaft and/or damaged spider gears as well.

3 series BMW. Front engine, rear drive, sweet inline 6, tons of aftermarket parts, great brakes, BMW reliability, etc. etc. etc.

I've had great luck with my Hobart. I have the black one. I just bought a red flame one from Sears.com outlet where they have some more for $99.

73-78 have the same booster. 72 does not. I put a 73-78 replacement booster in my 72. Had to redrill the firewall for the 4 studs. It works great, but... you have to loosen it and move it around to get the clutch master cylinder out.

Man. Hopefully you can catch a break. Been following along and hope you can finally get a SPEEDY recovery...

I'm a second for a Beemer. Just not the V8. Early to mid 90's cars had a rep for imploding, but the inline 6 is a hammer. The V8 cars are more expensive to operate and repair in general. (But you have to LOVE that 540-6 combo!)Get an E36 two door sport manual trans. 97-98 just to stay in your age/mileage range. We have a '95 325is we bought as a lease return in '98 with 34k miles on it. It has 118k now and has been a great car. I've done all maintenance/repair myself and have found the car no more difficult or more expensive to own than any other late model performance car.

The VW 4 banger (water cooled one), even the 8 valver, is an awesome little motor. 15 years ago I had seen 2 liter drag motors putting out 450 hp turbocharged.

As Rick noted, problems abound. There is a different part # for the T5 fork, I just bought one as well as a collar to make sure I have the right parts. Looks like a slave will be my next purchase!

Get out the phone book and find somebody who sharpens bits. I had a $30 titanium nitride coated 1/2" bit that I spun too fast. I paid $10 and had it professionally sharpened. That's one reason why drill bits are 6" long, so they can be sharpened.

ProTools has a bender that will do 3". It is the HD version of their manual bender. But the other guys are right, thin wall tube is a different animal. With the 7" radius 2" die for my ProTools bender, .134 wall is minimum thickness while with the 8" die you can do .120. Either way, not exactly a light weight exhaust... Your best bet would be to buy somebody's 3" kit that comes with straight pieces, 45 degree bends, and 90's. Or a kit for a Chevelle or Camaro and cut and weld it to fit your project.

Did the Nissan cast iron front bearing retainer work as well? Good info, thanks for the pics!

I have issues with my clutch as well that I am chasing. I have the T5 with the collar and fork that came with the trans and it would not disengage (Centerforce stage II clutch for '83 turbo car) I put an 11/16 bore slave from an '89 240sx. 72 and earlier cars came with the smaller bore master, but my auto parts store does not stock it. But the 240sx slave is identical in external size to the 73 and up slave and uses the same style pushrod. This at least allows me to drive the car, but it drags where I cannot shift at higher rpms with any speed. I bought brand new ZX release parts from Motorsport which is my next step. They show a unique part # for the fork. I have a replacement master, but hate to change that again. When my vacuum booster went out the only replacements were for '73 and up. This requires drilling the firewall for the larger bolt patter on the larger booster. Now I have to loosen the booster bolts and pull it away from the firewall in order to remove the clutch master. PITA. My car was broken for so long, I haven't worked up the courage to tear it back down again, but will do soon.

Do you mean speedometer gear? I assume so. Speed gears refers to gears on the mainshaft. Gears not on the mainshaft are part of the cluster or countershaft. Please post more specs! What input shaft did you use? How about output shaft? Clutch spline? The more I get into the T5, the more it looks like a Ford box will almost bolt right up to the Nissan motor, with just a clutch disc change? Probably have to disassemble and modify the spline length and pilot bearing diameter? As noted in the other thread, I'm going to keep pursuing this. A set of 3.90 in the R200 with the 2.95 first gear T5 and the .59 OD would be sweet in a street car!

Yes. I just got back from the bookstore with a book on modding manual trans. It has a bunch of info on the T5. You can swap internals as long as they are the same type of trans (world class or non-world class) and extension housings as long as they are the same type (synchro or non-synchro 5th gear) Turns out their are only two cases, the GM and the Ford. The Ford case is pretty much used in everything else, including some of the GM's! Jeep, Nissan, Isuzu, and GM F-bodies 93 and up all use the Ford case. I'm going to compare input shaft specs on the Ford vs. the Nissan. Seems to me you can buy a brand new Ford Motorsport tranny and reasonably easily adapt it to an L series motor by using a Ford spec clutch disc of appropriate diameter. This would also let you use a much more common rear yoke with 1310 u-joint compared to the 1.5" diameter unique Nissan setup. Will let you know.