1 tuff z

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Began the install this evening. Figured I'd spend about a half hour test fitting the left/driver side, 2 hours later I'm closer... I think the header went in & out about 30 times! Began [sortofish] following Blakes directions. Remove brake master and pull to the side, disconnect steering rod at coupler, set aside. Then I realized it would be easier to completely remove the steering rod but the only way to do that is to also remove the john's mount-so I did that also. Now I'm fighting so the 'while I'm at it's' don't completely take over. I wire brush, clean and lube the steering rod ends [so they re-assemble easier], decide that the john's mount needs a few mods for easier install and attempt to zone in on where the material needs to be removed. Wow are these a tight fit but they look awesome and can't wait to hear it fire up! Yes, she will be fired up open tubes... Enough for tonight-too cold in my unheated upstate NY garage.

Paul, mine are recovered in a very dark grey tweed. We used an SEM plastic prep to 'soften' the plastic then 3m adhesive to adhere the tweed. Care was taken to align the pattern to flow from panel to panel and we enlarged the 'rivet' holes to take into account the extra material for the hole. I also converted to a honda pull type fastener which are reuseable. Question about your z-I noticed your bumpers have no holes and the rear is a 1 piece. Did you get them that way or have them modified?

Josey, can u post a close up of where the left mount was cut. I'm not quite clear where Blake did that and would prefer to see that before I begin 'hacking'!

Brian hooked me up with the same rear spoiler-only in white!

Here are the instructions that came with my headers-with some slight revisions for clarity. Had Blake email me the pics so I could enlarge them some. The piece which was removed from the left john's engine mount is upside down from the orientation as it was removed. So, if you're trying to visualize where it was removed from simply turn it 180 degrees! This forum would also be a great place for us to share any efficiencies we discover for our install. Z LSx Long tube install instructions.doc Z LSx Long tube install instructions.pdf

Sweet!-glad they'll fit without too much modification.

I'd text or email him.

Mild or ss, check cone engineering, here is a link to their transitions / cones pdf, inexpensive...

Hunting around for components to build the gap between the new long tubes & existing exhaust I determined it best to run dual 2.5" after the LT's then merge into a single 3" aft of the tranny. Anyway, found what I feel are the most reasonable cost/length/etc. transitions from Cone Engineering. Spent some time speaking with Rich [think he's the owner], got a quick education and he helped me narrow it down to their TR7-2530-SS 3"-2..5" transition. 4.1" long, 7 degree taper, ~$23 each, in 304 ss. Very reasonable compared to some of the other transitions out there and all made in house to boot! Here is a link to the Cone Engineering website, here is the link to their parts pdf-look on pg 3 of 4, under "SS collector transition cones". Most likely will purchase my components [tubing, etc] from Columbia River Bends, click-here

I have one but it would have to be shipped from upstate NY. Pm me if you're interested.

Vinny, October 2014 will mark 30 for my 73z, which I purchased with a fist full of cash I squirreled away while serving in the Army in Korea-early 80's.

I removed my factory prop and safety valve [you can see yours in this thread post #15] and installed a wilwood prop valve as well. It may be that your safety valve is causing the problem...

So you have their monster rear brakes. At 13" they should provide more than enough to lock the rears first-as I found on my first run after upgrading to the silvermine rears from the mml 240sx rears [and had removed my prop valve]. First run locked the rears-drove carefully home, reinstalled the prop valve and began adjusting it after. Were the pads & rotors bedded in properly? Again, I would not use the Hawk HPS's as I easily wore them down to nearly nothing during a 2 day event, the HP+ [while I'm sure they're not the best pad] last me significantly longer. HPS & HP+ both create plenty of dust on the wheels.

So now that my long tubes have finally arrived been thinking about the rest of the exhaust. My current setup is dual 2.5" into a single 3" [just aft of the tranny] into a single 3" in/out offset summit racing muffler. Entire system is T304 SS mandrel. Like to hear from the rest of you who got on board with our group buy as to what you've planned! pic of my current setup

Garrett, thanks for the info & link but I'm a bit unclear on the install. Welding involved? Your pic in the referenced thread shows each [new] end. Just wanted to be sure I know how you installed the new u-joints. Probably simple and I'm just not getting it-sorry for any confusion.

From whom did you purchase the rears?

Cyrus, perhaps I missed it but don't know which rears you're running. S13? Silvermine? Pics would help if you're not certain.

No word as of yet.