1 tuff z

check this beauty, 73, a/t, 61k miles, su's, lots of rust &...more! i'll begin stripping this weekend, think this one will take awhile.

amazing-can't wait to see/hear first video!

johnc, no reply to the 'want to put a larger bar on the rear'? i don't think that would be the prudent thing to do and would create excessive oversteer/unhappiness! addco also offers bars, although you can purchase them separately. 1" front and either 3/4" or 7/8" rear. the 3/4 is a rear mount and the 7/8 a front mount in the stock location [for those z's that have the existing factory brackets]. their number is 616.636.8856. said they'd also provide group discounts, beginning with the fourth set [if i remember correctly]. i'd say make a few runs to establish a baseline for the handling and go from there-once you know what the car is doing and can do. you may find it's to your liking just the way it is...

called earls race store, for the cfd600hp they charge approx $360+shipping [only $9]. unit is in stock, think i may go this route. monzter [jeff], is your z now running the new fuel tank setup, if so how do you like it and have you experienced any 'low fuel' problems? thanks, david

few cars he didn't have numbers for, they're in there]. wow, do the z's look cool in the 'studio'! in my conversation with steve [photo guy] we discussed his ability to do limited custom work. on my first auto-x run i came into the 'u-turn' a tad bit too hot and basically drifted thru the corner. he captured it holding down the shutter and took about 9 pics. i'm thinking about a single pic with each of the images laid out to create a stepped look of me going thru the corner. the cd's are available, all images on them, sans studio shots. images are a lower resolution, no watermark, suitable for printing your own pics up to a 5x7. any larger and they will begin to distort. so, there you have it! any questions, contact steve directly-his info is all on his website.

yes, the maf is smaller dia then the tb. yes, the first bend for the tb is a reduction-got that one from mike at jtr. i cut down the end at the tb to pull the elbow closer to the tb -also slotted it for more 'closeness'. my goal was to move the intake portion that comes across the front of the engine closer to the engine itself, leaving more room for the upper rad hose. btw, scott at wizard also made the alum tube you see as part of my upper rad hose. what u don't see is the crafty 't' he tig welded to it to accomodate the steam tube for the heads. i turned it so it's at the bottom and virtually invisible. call mike at new era, he should be able to get the elbow you need.

most of the time i launch in 2d, one of the reasons why i'm upgrading to the q45 diff with the 3.54 gears. what is it that you are unable to find, perhaps i can help?

move to rochester, lower taxes, more snow, fewer hills, larger z club and...me! i slay myself...lol

thanks for the compliments, much appreciated. my final drive is a 3.9 r200 with nismo clutch lsd. quick240 and i drove down to daytona together from his place in maryland and both averaged about the same mpg-although he was running his a/c [his final drive is a 3.54 though]. we both ran pump 87 octane as well and averaged about 75-80 mph. my intake elbow was purchased from the same place i sourced many of my swap parts [shifter, intake, plugs & wires, slp thermostat, double row timing chain, underdrive crank pulley, more] from in addition to the tuning/dyno as well. it was mike's [owns new era] that i use a tight radius-said it would provide a nice long/straight run prior to the maf sensor. additionally, he had me place the inlet air temp sensor forward of the radiator in the air cleaner housing-lower temp=better performance! linky http://www.neweraperformanceparts.com/ the radiator is custom but available for 240, 260, 280 and 280zx. simply tell him how much hp it needs to cool, diameters of inlet/outlet and viola. evilz also has one in his 240. scott from wizard was also good enough to provide custom mounts for the stock GM dual electric fans! linky http://wizardcooling.com/index.htm

current issue of c&d named the odyssey once again #1 in their comparo test. i'm confident you won't need the awd and a fwd will be fine. i run studded snows all around on my accord and it will push snow. or you could simply pad the headliner. my wife flat out refuses to even consider a minivan [i love that woman]!

you might try to contact quick240, i know he's running the stock master & slave with his ls1/t56 swap. from what you've described, however, it sounds like it has to do more with the slave than the master-but tough to troubleshoot.

suggestions for the dual purpose z's out there [street, auto-x & track]?

johnc, for those viewing and using the info below for their alignment-the specs you've listed are they for street, track or a combo?

fantastic time-congrats. i will also comment on your z, really like the 240 bumpers on the 280, clean look. dig the hre wheels also. your z is a real sleeper!

if you're auto-xing with scca or another sanction and/or lapping be sure to check ahead of time to see what they will allow for mounts. i've seen it vary greatly, most however, will want an scca approved mount with a safety tether. advance research will save you both frustration & ebarassment. my 13 cents worth...

mk, thanks for posting the video. now it's time for me to do my homework and attempt to make 1tuffz, 1aeroz

ROVdriver, anxiously awaiting more pics of the makeover, interior, exterior and of course under the hood and chassis. keep us posted!

thunder, first i'd say the gear ratio of 4.x would be too high for either a street or track car. i have a 73 with the ls1/t56 swap and am running an r200 with nismo lsd, 3.9 ratio. i regularly start off in 2nd gear as the engine pulls well from the lower rpm's and doesn't complain. at the convention last week i ran my last few auto-x runs taking off in 2nd as well. i'm planning on the q45 swap [3.54 ratio] either this fall or spring and am looking forward to the 'better' grears for my driving-street and track [watkins glen]. my 3 cents...

i'm curious as well as to; 1. weight of the wheel 2. clearance both front [at lock to the frame rail] & rear [to the fender lip] 3. size tire you settle on. i'm currently running a 245.35.17 on a 17x 8 11/16 wheel with a 4 29/32 [pretty much 5"] backspace. coilovers, rolled rear fender lips and no clearance issues either front or back. please keep us posted.

ahh, the classic-my vin number, simply a duplication essentially saying my vehicle identification number number. or, where did you park the car at? the classic dangling participle. if my vague english serves me correctly, this could be easily avoided by saying, where did you park the car at, a&&ho$#? there are many, many more...

chris, thanks for the heads up, i've got till the spring to find them...

got a flat on the way back from the convention and ran about 3 hours or so on my space saver maxima spare. anyway, my flat was not repairable-problem is they don't make the tire anymore so i've been searching to see if i can find a tire store somewhere hoping for the needle in the haystack. it's a toyo proxes t1s, 245.35.17. i'd like to purchase a pair [left & right, 1 of each]. the new model is the t1r, readily available... i've searched the internet, ebay and called our local tire wholesaler but without success. if anyone can help i'd appreciate. my thoughts are to stay with the same tire as i was concerned about adverse effects on the handling... i'm open to feedback/thoughts?

i could tell you monday-my parts cd is at work... pm me if you don't get an answer by then and i'll be glad to look it up. you could also try to call your local nissan dealer.

holy v6 on steroids batman!