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1 tuff z

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Everything posted by 1 tuff z

  1. i'm in. mike i sent u an email regarding a spoiler i have u can use.
  2. greg, i believe you could grind the ears a bit but will then need to modify the molex connector. probably remove the wires and plug them each individually to their respective connectors. the stock connector is pretty tall-i notched the connector at the wire end then placed the wires in the notches, creating a 90 degree angle with the wires which allowed for a bit more clearance.
  3. greg, i found that removal of the 'ears' was necessary but leaving the band the ears attached to is ok. yes, you'll need to massage the tranny tunnel on the pass side to clear the [i think] reverse connection area. there are 4 'prongs' that protrude from the tranny. i believe they were put there to protect the elec connection.
  4. thought i'd chime in. i've been running compomotive wheels for a few years now. completely custom-width, offset, diameter, bolt circle, hub diameter. powdercoated centers, polished outer lip. now the centers are forged [mine are cast]. turn around is pretty quick. i dinged 2 of mine 2 years ago, sent them back-they replaced the outer rim section, balanced & trued the wheels and polished them-had them back within 2 weeks for less than $300-round trip shipped! here's the website; http://www.usacomp.com/ speak with alan... there are a few different styles that will work with our z's, i have this wheel-see pic below-on my z [they have my specs on file] in a 17x8.5". plenty of room-i have coilovers. evilc has the same wheels, forged center, darker grey center. they are in my basement awaiting tires and a finished z to put them on. i weighed one of evilc's wheels last night-they are around 20 lbs including the center cap and measure 8x17" as measured from inner bead to bead or 9" if you measure lip to lip. if i remember correctly they run around $450/wheel or so. i believe they can build them to 12" wide-enuf to fill zg flares or whatever else you can build! david
  5. someone had chimed in on vortex generators awhile back. anyway, now being whored on ebay! btw, carl-welcome to the 'dark side'! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Vortekz-Universal-Vortex-Generators-Black-10-Pieces_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ42611QQihZ019QQitemZ290063921879QQrdZ1
  6. the hp+ is an aggressive street pad. they work great for me. i'd go to the hawk website and check them out. try calling ed at the Race Shopper 1.800.733.8380, best prices i've found.
  7. zmanco, i was having the same issues. 73 240z, modern m'sports front brakes with 240sx rears. fronts locking first. kvr pads all around with prop valve full open-i eliminated the factory safety valve and factory prop valve. wound up going to hawk hp+ rear pads and now it's all good. work great both street & track [watkins glen]. actually removed the prop valve. the hp+'s are a bit squeaky on the street [can quite them either by reducing or increasing brake pedal pressure]. before you change pads-check the following; new fluid, properly bled system, no hose or line issues, pads properly bedded in, rotors true & in good shape. there are others on this site that know far more than i and may chime in but hopefully this will help.
  8. thanks all. unfortunately, i lost the auction-got sniped by some sob with 6 sec's left... oh well, my search continues.
  9. 280zforce, i'd like to have you as my back up-just in case. i did speak to someone earlier who said they'd help me out. thanks much to all of you who've replied. david
  10. hey all, i really hate to ask but need a BIG favor. i found this driving seat for my son's video game on ebay but the seller won't ship it. i even offered to have ups pick it up [all he had to do was pack it] but no joy. anyway, if there's anyone the in the santa ana area that would be willing to pick it up i'd compensate something you for your time. i would need you to pick it up and either pack it or simply take it to your local ups store-they'll pack & ship. i can pay immediately using paypal! here's a link to the listing, i can't bid until i know i can make this work. the auction ends just prior to midnight tonight. if you can, once confirmed i'll bid on the item [and hopefully win]. i'm not in any hurry to get it shipped here, just want to try to make this idea work. thanks [in advance] to anyone who can help me on this-david http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=005&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=150061402614&rd=1&rd=1 please feel free to call me at home today; 585.467.5105
  11. linky: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&viewitem=&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fsearch.ebay.com%3A80%2Fsearch%2Fsearch.dll%3Ffrom%3DR40%26satitle%3D320050132958%26fvi%3D1&item=320050132958&rd=1
  12. bj, another thought-how about testing with and without headlight covers? if you did a baseline run-stock 240z, ride height, front valence, no spoilers, wipers, belly pan, driv side mirror...you get the idea. then run individual 'upgrades' from there. i know there are many more variations to potentially be tested once the baseline is established but figure you'll focus on the current most used, otherwise it would be prohibitively expensive!
  13. terry, jon & bj, now you've done it. just as i thougth i had a handle on the basics of car handling and suspension-i read this thread and, once again, realize that i really don't know much at all. yet another blow to my self-esteem:wink: maybe if i read it a few times [and if you guys post some pics for us slower learners] it will start to make some sense...lol never too old to learn!
  14. bj [& all], as i've followed this interesting thread i can't help but think that once completed, we'll all benefit from the results. so, here's my idea. it appears that there is a cost [aside from labor] to run this 'test mule' through the paces to determine aerodynamic advantages for our beloved z cars. what if all interested pony up a small fee to help offset the expenses to create an economy of scale test? it could be as little as $20, sent via paypal. ideas, thoughts, feedback? this is, of course only if you're not filthy rich. if that's the case, then ignore my idea and bankroll the entire project, lol!
  15. they look great cameron. can u post more detailed pics without the jack in the pic? still working on which approach to use for my swap [winter project]. thanks, david
  16. the fuzzy stuff is probably what's left of your window channel fuzzy. the clip that's on the door under the window squegee is the remainder of your window roller. sounds like you need both; window channel fuzzy and window roller. fortunately, they are still available.
  17. check the window roller-it mounts/clips under the outer stainless/rubber 'squeegee' strip at the base of the window. remove the strip carefully to see if the roller is there [near the mirror area]... if not, that could be your problem. additionally, the window channel fuzzy may have slid down and/or bunched in the channel
  18. not bad for a couple of "practice" drivers! one thing you forgot at the conclusion. "and that, my fellow hybridz-r's, is how it's done!"
  19. mark, do your milano's have provisions for 5 pt harnesses? i'm in the older [45], tall [6'3"], lean [175 lbs] crowd and in addition have a herniated disc [in the waist area] so i'm looking for new seats. the old recaro's just don't cut it anymore. need something; low, light, narrow-to clear the main hoop for the autopower cage and most important-comfortable for the old back. some track days, auto-x and daily driving combo...
  20. imho the wheels look like sheit. pull them off immediately and ship them stateside to me for proper disposal [i'll try them on my z first just to be sure!]. ok, i'll cover shipping if u need me to...lol:icon54:
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