1 tuff z

mike, you testing air dams as well? i think many of us are running the style that replaces the stock valence. additionally, i have a lower profile rear spoiler on my z-it's urethane and made by xenon, 1 piece attaches to the hatch. i had thought of attaching an aluminum [extention] to the trailing edge, spanning the width of the spoiler and protruding rearward to an imaginary vertical line from the rearmost portion of the rear bumper. don't remember much about aero from my military pilot days but something like smoothing laminar flow strikes familar. could be a flashback though:roll:

excellent, another one on the books for us east coasters! nice job vihn. next time try the burnout in 2nd gear... david

every time i log on i learn something new about our beloved z cars. alan, thanks for providing the archival info & photo's. keep it coming!

ulises, do you have any pics of the front mount you fabb'd for the q45 diff install you could email me?

1 word. zweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeettttttttt! nuff said

ok, you got me! actually, driving your v8z was my second experience in one. back in n. carolina i met a guy that had an old vette engine with a muncie "rock crusher" 4 speed. car was very cool but, unfortunately, no quicker or faster than my sc L6, so i held off. piloting your z absolutely sealed the deal, the crankshaft pulley breaking just accelerated the timeline!

jeff, more pics!

i'm there too. began after my crankshaft pulley ate itself during the 2005 convention auto-x last august and completed it this spring. have logged about 2600 miles since. did i mention that i was able to do a quick hi-speed run a few weeks ago-thought i had blown the engine when at 160mph it nearly died, white smoke in mirror then my passenger [evilc] said "oh yea, remember the pcm still has the factory set speed limiter-160". still pulling pretty well, around 4500 rpm in 6th gear...

the shop manual describes rack preload adjustment as follows: [to the best of my recall] loosten large jamb nut, tighten firmly screw [takes a pretty big flat tip] then back off 20-25 degrees, tighten jamb nut. you can also [depending on your model year z] remove the plugs near the preload area and on other side and install zerk [grease nipple] fittings and give your rack a lubing. hope this helps...

i used the tilton master, cut the line at the slave and a tig'd -3 'an' fitting. Clutch slave to master line specs- at master [3/8 1.0 pitch with angle tip-bulkhead fitting fits into master]. Line is 32†long and attaches to weld on male ‘-3’ at slave. So 32†long, female -3 straight fitting at slave end and 90 deg female -3 fitting at master end.

it looks as though the opening where your cable attaches has spread and needs to be 'closed' a bit. i initially had the same problem with mine. either put it in a vice and slowly pinch it closed while frequently test fitting the cable. or u could use a big pair of pliers...

turning grey, heck it is grey-but happy to still have some to comb. evil, as long as i'm helping to turn the wrenches on your z it will surely be slower than mine! thanks to all for the b-day wishes, had a great day. it was rainy so i couldn't cruize in my z but instead raced on my son's ps4-gran turismo4!

greg, shoot me a pm so we can talk. end of sept is our clubs bi-annual fall festival, perhaps you could head in that weekend. david

allen, if you do a quick search you'll find that most upgrade to the early zx 15/16" master cylinder.

bri, pics coming soon?

i used this email [from the website]; sales@modern-motorsports.com. received the same reply as vihnzxt did, indicating they'd be out of the office till end of july. it's been at least a month and figured that since were in sept now i'd have heard back...

anyone heard from ross in the past month or so. i've sent him numerous emails over the past 8 weeks and not heard a peep. i wanted to let him know that i was able to solve my brake bias issue with different pad compounds but was also looking to purchase the components i need to complete the q45 diff swap. anyone?

i had put mine on a few weeks back. took just a few times behind the wheel to get used to them. interesting, not having to turn your head to check the mirrors. also, practically eliminates the blind spot on the pass side of the car. pics in my gallery...

i checked with the place where i purchased mine and i'm able to purchase the complete kit for $205 [includes everything required for the install] + shipping from rochester, ny. anyone interested, simply email me and i'll get your z 'cruized'. i can receive $ via paypal but since i have a business account, you'll need to pay the paypal fees, otherwise a money order works best. david one_tuffz@yahoo.com

mike, now that you've disclosed your cost i have a clear idea of what the profit was. with that said, i'd be happy to humbly accept a refund to help ease your mind...of course! [lol]

i paid $444 shipped [around 3 or 4 years ago] to my door for the following; adj lower control arms, adj t/c rods & the bushings-all from mike. they work great!

bill, checked last nite. i used the #21 pin [vss signal] on the red pcm connector which is purple/white [factory color] or yellow [speartech harness color]. used an inline splice. pretty simple actually-compared to the ls1 swap!

for those of us who can't weld or don't own a welder, i think they're reasonably priced. i can't imagine how many hours i'd spend learning to weld and finally then trusting my welds on my car, say-at 140 mph down the back straight at watkins glen. i purchased mine from mike kelly years back for the above reasons...

i'll check for you tonight. the install was pretty simple-ground, power, servo [mounted mine just below the pcm-pass footwell]-cable connected to the extra pin on the throttle butterfly. then tied the control head lighting into the dash lights so i had the dimmer function.

the old style cruise units used a magnetic sensor on either the driveshaft or inline with the speedo cable and a vacuum powered servo [pulls on a cable attached to the throttle]. i believe they are still available for older cars without computers. the newer style [like i've installed] use an electronic signal and an electric servo. i tapped mine directly into the pcm [took awhile to determine which pin to use]. it's great in town-i'll set it at 35mph so as to avoid the dreaded speed creep and potential tickets. also nice on the highway so i can move my right leg around.