1 tuff z

i ran 330 hp, 360 tq-as measured by a brand new dynojet last spring. shorty headers, ls1, no other mods. yes, traction is an issue but one i happily address!

just called my local gm dealer. the part#1254-9117. they are $1.24+tax. if u can't get it local, pm [or email; one_tuffz@yahoo.com] me and i'll get one 4 u. they have them in stock and i'll b close and could pick it up today-if u get to me before 11:30am edt. david

as my feeble brain is trying to picture how this is on-car adjustable [it looks to be so] a close up pic of the separate components would certainly help me to do so. do u have a closer shot similar to the first one u posted?

which o ring, where the line goes into the slave, held in by the roll pin? if so, i picked mine up at the dealer. $1.76.

i'm running a tilton universal master, 15/16" size, part# 74-937u. works great, a bit stiff but makes it feel more MANLY!

another shameless plug-posted both locally and now here in hybrid classifieds. spring fever, time to get busy! http://classifieds.hybridz.org/showcat.php?cat=10

i would not have walked but RUN-very fast-away from that money pit!

ross, any word on the q45 front mount?

cameron? mounts? snow is melting and i am jonesing!

my take on jci. great engine mounts-work just as promised. sent wrong crossmember-even though i sent him my; month/year production date, vin and other info he asked for. had to return it on my dime and then still had to modify the correct cm on arrival. instructions could use some updating and their packing skills are lacking-at best. number of parts were damaged because of it. phone skills also lacking. if i treated my business like that, i wouldn't have one. perhaps they feel as the only lsx engine mount game in town they can act so cavalier. i do, as a person who does not own a shop, welder or other mad fab tools-the fact that they produce the hi-qual eng mounts for this swap.

i thought that a 'too lean' condition was the reason headers would get too hot [not enuf fuel to keep the engine cool]?

johnc, i'm running the modern motorsports brake setup-13'' front with the 240sx rear calipers. removed both the [factory] safety valve and prop valve and installed a wilwood prop valve inline going to the rear brakes. upon initial drive i had way too much front bias. stopped and increased the rear bias-the long and short-i opened the valve all the way and still too much front. wound up getting a more aggressive pad compound for the rears and my bias is pretty good now [both street and track]. i contacted a number of brake retailers and no one could come up with a solution other than adjusting thru brake pads. i even went so far as to remove the prop valve [this actually resulted in a bit more rear brake-but still not enough till i swapped in the new pads]. my car is a 4/73 vintage, 13" modmsports extreme rotors front and the 300zx rear rotors. running the pads ross sent in the front and hawk hp+ in the rear.

lookin good gary!

i'm in rochester, ny-about 1.5 hours from buffalo and could provide temp housing for your new ride. email me if you need at; one_tuffz@yahoo.com

bryan, it looks great. for my brain orientation-do the an fittings point rearward or forward? also, what is the purpose for drain plug relocation? thanks

maybe. there's a spot on the pass side that may need to be massaged. i think we've come up with a solution which may eliminate this need. what we're working on now is creating a short 90 degree elec plug to come off the reverse switch and shorten the plastic portion of the sensor itself, then remove some material from the 4 cast [protecting] protrusions that surround the rev switch. if successful, i believe no massaging will be required! we shall see...

as my humble 2 car garage [built in 1959] isn't too big and i don't have [yet] a 110 circuit that can support a compressor, the cut off stuff had to be done by hand... my entire swap was done in my garage with plain old hand tools...

last nite we figured on getting the crossmember holes drilled to prefit the part. same thing as mine, needed to mod the rubber mount tab on the pass side as the cm has a bend where the bolt hole is. enlarge bolt hole [they drill prior to bending which ovals the hole], bend mount tab. then cm is too long, shorten pass side [same thing i had to do]. funny, you'd think after all this time jci would get it 'right'. imho, their cm is, well...lesser quality than their top notch eng mounts. in hindsight, i'd have alltogether skipped the cm purchase... clive [evil] is now experiencing the frustration we've [who have now completed the swap] all gone or are going thru. go to do one thing and have to run through a number of other steps to get that one processed... all worth it in the end!

been a rush fan since 8th grade [i think that was in 1975-those years are a bit fuzzy] and i first heard 2112 as well as reading ayn rand's anthem [sp?]. i have the hemispheres album-it's a rare 'picture disc'. my z used to be red and when i heard red barchetta-well, that song was and still gets played a bunch while driving. tell your 'passenger' she'll get all the sleep she needs when she dies! lol i don't know why i messed that one turn, but saw you bearing down on me-hoping it wouldn't 'hurt' too bad-alas it punctured my left front tire-putting me out.

had great fun racing last night. ran the lotus elise-no mods to keep it as competitive as possible. i thought i had a great launch on the start but wound up nosing into the wall within seconds...lol. last race succombed to pressure and gave up 1st to toddo and finished 2nd, 2 sec behind. first race spun then got hit which put me out of that one. overall, it was great and can't wait till the next one! carfan, cygnus, evilz, myself and toddo [who hosts/server] were there as well as a couple of unknowns [to us], hemi head and fred [someone].

i brought the steel camaro ds and old stock z ds to the local shop [fleetpride], they cut the camaro trans end and z diff end then welded both to a new steel tube, balanced, painted and handed it back in exchange for $100. 3000+ miles, just over 160mph blast last summer and doing fine. will do the same again once i have the q45 diff installed.

then there will be yet another story, when i have to teach this young buck how to drive a car [his z] that is other than stock. it'll be like turnin' a virgin loose in a cathouse! ya jus cain't do it, else someone'll git hurt! i guess for now he'll have to keep driving the simulator [gran turismo 4 and gtr2]. did someone say "practice racer?" LOL! i slay myself...

well stated demon and spot on! i deal primarily in retirement planning and use funds [vs. individual stocks] and other investment vehicles to do the job.

all, we're not marketing or manufacturing the lines [brake, clutch, fuel] just helping the business by providing them oem lines to serve as the 'masters' to create what you see in the pic [box] clive posted. classictube.com what clive and i will then do is have them make custom fuel lines from the master [pardon my lack of engineering/pc/speak/terms] cad/cam??. anyway, we can say we want x" diameter line with x fitting at the end. additionally, we'll mount [temp] the new stock fuel line then run them back to them and say-end it here, here and here. i think we'll wind up using a 3/8" line with an fittings at the ends-for both feed & return. this will eliminate the braided line deal i ran. when i first went to classic tube i got a tour of the mfg facility-pretty impressive and a huge inventory-lots-o-muscle car lines. the take the stock line, use this funky scanner thingy to plot x, y and z axis' then send the info to the computer that tells the bender what to do then viola', it bends. they then take the newly minted line and scan it-the scan is then compared to the master scan. any adjustments are then made and the new master is born.