datsun40146

I think thats a great idea. Do you mean the "BigPhil" videos and his copycats, or tech videos?

I shaved the whole bumper when I removed that, here is what I did. First I bought a early 260z as a parts car since it has the small bumpers. The reason I say to use an early 260 or 240 is that the roll pan under the bumper will have a similar shape to what your about to block off. 1. Take a drill or cut off wheel your choice and either drill out the spot welds or cut the piece off even or close to even w/ the pan. If you drilled then just yank and remove it and grind to finish. If you cut you will have a bit of a lip left grind that off. Either way you WILL have holes and I don't care what anyone says or how good of a body man you are, you WILL have imperfections in that roll pan from removing those spot welds. Now lets assume you can weld or know someone that can, this is AT MOST an hour job if you do the prep. If you farm it out you will be only out at most 75 dollars. 2. Clean the area around where the spot welds used to be with a paint cleaner and grind the areas free of slag/paint ect. 3. Cut and form a piece of metal of the 260/240 roll pan that will cover the bumper holes. B/c you used that roll pan ALOT less metal work you will need (Yoda) 4. Clean the area around both front and back of the bumper holes so it can be welded/glued. 5. That indention on the 280z model that is oval shaped will need to be cut out, DO NOT FILL IT W/ BONDO!!!!. Again take you 260/240 and cut the right size bit to be welded. 6. I think there is another oval hole in the back of the 280z that will need to be filled with metal. Again cut the right size bit from the roll pan of the 240/260. BTW all of the bits of metal that you’re cutting should be either flush fit to the hole or fit to the back of your roll pan. 7. Take your metal bits and either glue them on like you want to, or have them welded on. I would do it for a case of adult drinks most welders won't charge you much if you have all the metal formed, cleaned and ready to go. 8. If you choose the glue route clean and apply to the glue to everything but the spot welds, I would have those filled by a welder. After all that won't take 10 minutes with a good MIG. 9. Fast-forward you have all you metal in and ready to go, grind down the welds reasonably flush but don't stay in one spot too long or you WILL warp the pan from excess heat, ask me how I know? 10. Spray the pan w/ a light coat of white and then black primer and sand it down. This will show you the high spots in your pan. This is where you want you filler the lightest. Meaning you should fill up to those areas. 11. Before you break out the Bondo see if you can do any hammer and dolly work to knock out some areas so you can use less filler. 12. Now, you've used the dolly and hammer and gotten it close. Apply and med. coat of filler after you have cleaned the surface VERY well. Sand down this coat and repeat until you get a smooth pan (12.1) Every once and a while you should spray the pan w/ white and black primer and sand to "see" where your low spots are. I hope this little write up helps you with your body work skills. If I have made any errors let me know and I’ll correct them.

The body itself looks to be pretty true and rust free. There is no telling whats under the paint but from those pictures it "shouldn't" be too bad. How badly is the underbody rusted? Is it just the pans or does the rust extend to the TC mounting points and rails? Over-all that shouldn't be too hard to bring back to life. Congrats on a clean ("for now") shell!

if God gives you lemons.....FIND A NEW GOD!!!!! I'm sorry I just watched Power Thirsyt on youtube, I havn't laughed so hard in my LIFE. Check it out if nothing else it will cheer you up!

Back Purist Back I Say!!! All kidding aside thanks everyone for the ideas on the car, I am going with the stripe package in black. I think once I get some photos of my car i'll post them and then see what you guys think at that point. Right now my plan is to buy or make the zstores side decals/stripes and have 8 to 10 inch wide dual racing stripes down the car. However I am considering not putting them on the roof. People keep telling me thats tacky for some reason. Anyone want to try to explain that to me? Thanks again hybridz!

Can anyone post pictures of their car with similar stripes or photoshop them on? If not, could anyone point me in the right direction for pictures of zcars with similar decal options?

whoa, I almost take back what I said about it being repairable. From the looks of those pictures you would have to replace the fender, drivers door, rocker panel, hatch, and reskin the rear quater, roll pan, rear bumper, is the roof buckled? That car could be repaired but I would fina another shell and move on. Its a hard pill to swallow but its true. I would still give ya 800 for it....lol. BTW is that a layer of filler that peeled off the bottom of you fender?

Ouch, thats has to hurt deep down. But on the bright your not hurt and you can always replace your zcar. You can't replace body parts or your life. You'll feel better in the morning, i'm sure its not that bad.

First of all sorry guys no pictures right now, I'm sorry. You'll have to wait about two weeks. The questions I needed opinions on were this. The car is painted 350z chrome silver metallic and I wanted to break that up a bit as I shaved everything off the car. IE bucket lines, emblems, markers, bumpers, ect. Anyway my plans are to use two racing stripes in black very similar to the Mustang 350H. Here is a picture I wanted to get everyone’s thoughts on that set of stripes to see if it would work on the car, to give you some food for thought here is a somewhat close pictures to what my car looks like minus the spoiler and markers, lines ect. Finally I plan on doing side stripes similar to this only instead of Porsche it would say DATSUN ot 280Z or something. Let me know. Here is an example of what I could find. If someone could post a picture of the dealer options for the side decals. Or if someone has the Photoshop skills could you please to a quick over-lay? I can do some things with Photoshop but I don't have access to the program anymore. One more thing the car has an astro-van chrome billet grill fitted to the front for an example of this find briann510's orange car. That’s all I got give me you best Hybridz! Thanks

Look in the cabin of the corvette, it is kinda funny!

OK so I was seaching around not doing much and came across a few motors that pretained to this thread that are AFFORDABLE. 1. Look up the Coventry Climax, its was britsh fork lift company in its early yeras and then was bought by BL. Anyway the motor, has a 1.5 liter V8 design, flat plane crank (later years) Don't think this motor is a slouch either, it was lifted from the forumla two series. Look it up, I was surpised too. This motor powered 1957 Lotus Elite, 1216cc FWE 1958 TVR Grantura, 1216cc FWE (Wikipedia)

For that price I've always been a fan of VWs. I bought a 2002 VW Golf 2 door for 7500. It only had 63,000 on it and a 5-speed transmisson. I get about 32 mpg and with the rear seats folded down, that little golf turns into van. Zero to 60 can be a bit slow as I just have the 2.0 liter N/A motor, I think my 0 to 60 is about 8 seconds or so. The brakes on that car and VERY good, the suspension is a bit soft for my liking but it still handles well. But if you opt for the 1.8T GTi, you will have a much quicker ride with a mpg of about 26-28. For the money and looks you cant beat a VW.

That Bob Sharp photo on page was really REALLY interesting. If anyone has any more pictures of that set up from any and all angles please post them or PM me. Thanks

So its finished now right? So when are you going to bolt it on to see what kind of power it makes? I'd love to know what just an intake manifold change does to a L28. Of course your's isn't stock, but it should be a"similar" relationship.

No it was always a joke. Its been kicked around vwvortex.com for years. If you read the orignal post you'll see that the owner of the thread admitted to it being a joke. It was howver VERY funny to read.

Look at the times when they said the kid was caught and when he was running, they don't match. I've seen this video before and the kid got away, the police arrested him a few days later at his house. However I'm not sure how that worked because if you loose sight of the presuee at any time for a period that I'm certain is shorter than a few days lol. That the poilice then can no longer be sure that was the same E30 that was running, mabye it was a different E30. Thats the problem I have. The video was doctored and the kid should not have been arested. Thats it im off my soap box.

Make sure you check the spark at all times, before, during and after it has died. Also make sure you have acess to another coil.

I had a brainstorm, and thought about a buddy of mine who had a similar problem. His fuel pressue was good, and so was his ignition module. However the problem was his coil or the wire that ran to his coil I don't remember. But that solved the problem. So I would give that coil, wires, and cap a VERY close look and be prepared to replace them. Make sure you post back here whated fixed the problem.

If we assume the fuel pressure is good initially, but is it staying up at full pressure till after the engine dies? And are you checking the pressure at the fuel rail? I am wondering if it is running on the initial three seconds of fuel pump, then the relay dropping out. Something else to consider is that it could be a spark problem, but checking to see if spark is present AFTER it quits running may be tricky. But if it does it time after time, I would connect a spare spark plug to one of the wires, and ground it, and see if spark continues after it dies...just a couple hits. But that will help you decide weather to concentrate on fuel or spark.

Great glad I could help.

Does anyone have any diagrams or pictures or anything that can help me understand how this works. Thats really what I'm after. Thanks

BTW you do know the symptoms of a reaction disk coming loose right? That way you’re not trying to fix something that's not broken. IF the reaction disk from the booster is out, when you tap the brakes, it'll be like you PUNCHED the brakes. Then you can't use the brakes because it's like and on/off switch. IF your diaphragm has a hole/tear your brakes will be very much harder to push, some where on the order of 4 times more energy, IE 30 pounds normally (guess), and then 120 pounds with out vacuum assist. IF your brakes have play in them you could have several issues. 1. Your pads are worn and need to be replaced or adjusted 2. Your brake lines have air in them and they need to be bled 3. Your pushrod on your booster may be too short and may not be engaging the MC properly. :)"quoted from Chevyman":) With engine off................pump pedal a few times to eliminate vacuum in booster........it will (read - should - ) get stiffer pedal after a couple of pumps. Then......with foot on pedal holding slight pressure, start engine.......manifold vacuum should fill booster and pedal should drop towards floor - about an inch (+or-). If this happens, and you don't have any symptoms described by Siz75 above, you can conclude that booster is in decent shape.

When my reaction disk fell off all I did was hold the booster so that the master cylinder side was pointing up, pull the plunger up as far as it would go and then shake it violently. The disk fell down into the "well" in the center and everything worked out fine. Make sure after you shake it that you push the plunger back down and keep it down so that the disk doesn't fall back out.

Ok, so I was watching the new season of Top Gear where they featured a Triumph/ British Leyland Sprint. Well what took me by surprise was the fact that it had 4 valves per cylinder but only one cam and its power output. I was wondering how this worked and if mabye it had a modern application. The motor that British Leyland placed that head on was a 2 liter four cylinder that made 127 bhp, which I though was VERY impressive for 1973. I was thought I would ask what everyone thought about that head design. This is what I've been able to find with a quick google search. Thanks Once the logical decision was taken to use the slant-four engine. The development of the slant-four would provide the perfect engine to compete more effectively in motor sport. Spen King devised a plan to extract more power. With co-operation from Harry Mundy and the engineers at Coventry Climax, a 16 Valve cylinder head was designed, which would sit atop a two-litre version of the engine. Ingeniously, the 16 Valves would be actuated by a single camshaft, long rockers across the head were used to actuate the second bank of valves. The arrangement was clever because it negated the need for an expensive twin camshaft arrangement, and would offer all the benefits of the multi-valve layout. At a stroke, Triumph had developed an engine that would power the marque's cars in a most effective way for many years to come - certainly, the SD2 was conceived with a fuel-injected version of this engine very much in mind. Development posed interesting problems, simply because of the fact that the 16V slant-four was so efficient, it was relatively easy for the engineers to tweak it to produce over 150bhp. The final figure was 127bhp - a very healthy figure, especially when viewed in the context of its 1973 introduction. Like the Dolomite before it, the Sprint (the name chosen early on during development) was subject to several delays - but it duly appeared in the autumn of 1973, and was greeted by buyer and press enthusiasm, alike.

Well when I upgraded my brakes I had about an inch or two in brakes as well. The first thing I did was to adjust the pushrod length, this helped a bit until I made it too long and it locked the font brakes after about a mile. The next thing I did after I adjusted the rod back was to check my lines and bleed my brakes again. They all checked out fine, so I sat in thought for a bit and went AH HA! I checked my rear drums and sure enough they were low on pad life and not adjusted. Normally this would not affect the pedal throw very much, but my rear brakes were not adjusting themselves. 1. This is what you should try; buy a drum brake adjustment tool or a small screwdriver. 2. Remove your rear tires after you jack up the rear of your car. 3. Next remove the rubber plug from the bottom backside of the drum. 4.After that place your "Tool" into that hole and feel for a star wheel, you'll place your tool against that and lever up to tighten up the rear drums. (I think its up it may be down you’ll have to check) 5. You should know that your drums are adjusted correctly if when you turn the wheel with a light force, they should come to a stop in about 1 to 1.5 turns. IE your drums should be VERY lightly dragging. If you find like I did that you cannot adjust your brakes enough its time to replace your rear brakes. Get your drums resurfaced and buy new pads and install. I found this helped by pedal feel SO much, my brakes barely have any play in them and they are firm just like I wanted them to be. If you want to know what I upgraded my brakes to just check my signature. EDIT: You can adjust your drums another way, put your car into reverse and start moving to about 10 mph, then pull your e-brake until you come to a stop, do this several times. This will adjust your brakes, but I recommend the manual way.