datsun40146

yeah photobucket is the norm, just start an account, upload em, and copy the IMG link and then we can see them.

A buddy of mine on another forum made a good suggestion. This was his idea. Rough up the car and shoot a cheap clear on it as is to sort of "seal" the old paint from the new. At that point we would rough up and wet sand that layer, shoot new base and clear. What do you guys think? If I got anything wrong happy let me know.

Hey I'm at UK mabye we can get a Z meet togther at hooters some time with some other guys in the area.

Information for the forums and future home painters I know in my case lacquer was not the problem, however any of the other cause could have been. Although I don't think this guy got his reducers mixed up as the effect is limited to a small area on the hatch and much lighter wrinkling on the fender in the area pictured. Lifting Condition: Surface distortion or shriveling, while the topcoat is being applied or while drying. Causes Use of incompatible materials. (Solvents in new topcoat attack old surface which results in a distorted or wrinkled effect.)Insufficient flash time. (Lifting will occur when the paint film is an alkyd enamel and is only partially cured. The solvents from the coat being applied cause localized swelling or partial dissolving which later distorts the final surface.)Improper dry. (When synthetic enamel type undercoats are not thoroughly dry, topcoating with lacquer can result in lifting.)Effect of old finish or previous repair. (Lacquer applied over a fresh air-dry enamel finish will cause lifting.)Improper surface cleaning or preparation. (Use of an enamel type primer or sealer over an original lacquer finish which is to be topcoated with a lacquer will result in lifting due to a sandwich effect.)Wrong thinner or reducer. (The use of lacquer thinners in enamel increases the amount of substrate swelling and distortion which can lead to lifting, particularly when two toning or recoating.)

The only thing that I can think of it that mabye you unplugged one of more sensors or pluged them in, in the wrong place. Check your AFM harness plug, make sure its tight and clean. Also check to see if your theromotime and water temp switches are clean and in the right order. Also please check yout TPS sensor for full movement and lack of corrosion. If all of these check out, then mabye the PO b/c of the cracked injector turned the afm adjstment screw one way ot another to make up for the lower or higher fuel coming out the injector 5. Pop your AFM open and see if it has been tampered with.

He doesn't have it anymore; I'm looking for someone to come over for a few bucks and reshoot it.

I have another thread regarding this topic to see what’s going please read it. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=130048 For those who are lazy, I did all the body work and sent the car to paint, it was shot once and there were still dents and things so I had them redo it. They fixed the dents and re-shot, the pictures are the result. I want as many people's opinion on what went wrong, how to fix it, how hard it will be, and cost. I had heard everything from reducer being too hot to, the car not being clean, to the paint not being mixable. If you can't tell from the photos the paint has wrinkled on the hatch and lifted on the fenders. The car has been under base for longer than 24 hours so I know I will have to re-shoot the car, however I'm thinking I can sand down the hatch, re-primer it and shoot it with the rest of the car. My plan it to block/sand the whole car to rough it up, primer the fenders and hatch maybe the whole car and re-shoot it. Any thing wrong there? Hatch lifting fenders lifting/peeling Whole car shots mistake in body work This is a picture of the roof, you guys have NO idea how bad this roof was. I think someone got mad at the car and hit it mult. times and the jumped on it. It took me hours to get it right and about 2 1/2 gallons or glass. Its like sanding on a circle for God's sake. But its a smooth as a baby's butt now. Thats all folks let me have it please excuse the dirt, its been in my garage.

Hey burnout what part of Ky are you from?

congrats, it feels nice doesn't it?

I am getting around 1600 back. I think I'm going to pay off some school stuff, but some silver for the Z, and some seats for the golf.

a 510 that was restorable they killed. You know there are only so many of these cars made right?

Yay diffy eq that’s gonna be fun, coupled with thermo and dynamics should lead to a fun year. Anyway back to my point. If you’re going to get the degree I would go for it and get the ME. Its worth more in salary, you will have many more offers in industry and would more useful to many more fields. If you look you see that there is no comparison between the two. How can you expect to do any of the advanced design work w/o the background in Calc/physics/dynamics. IMO the MET degree would relegate you to a CAD program for a very long time with little to no chance for advancement. Drawing things ME’s tell you do, that they themselves do not want to do. Its not a fun job. I'll get off my soap box now.

ouch alright when I'm working this summer I WILL donate 20 USD to this site. I feel I owe hybirdz that.

c'mon please...with sugar on top?

If your going to go, the go all out, get the ME degree. You will be much better off. One analogy that I think fits here is MET is to nurse as ME is to doctor.

Can I get a caption change that is more in line with my new avatar?

nope those are porsche air horns.

Cat in a vacume cleaner.....Now thats priceless!

Like my new avatar? Please don't change it though it took me forever to upload and make look right. I go need a new caption though...

That sounds great, can't wait to hear you.

awesome video, but you didn't start it

I'll take mater...i think. What was your reasoning?

Wait a minute how is being unable to crap related to the *^$%$&%$ stuff that I had before...... wait I got it, I ate so much cheap mac and cheese from my last title that I am now unable to have a bowel movement? Hollar if I'm getting warm admins. lol

I didn't know he was ill, he will be missed.

If you want cheap I would get your stock one turned down, you could expect very similar gains if its done correctly. It would also be about 1/3 of the cost. IE if your "namebrand" one costs 300, I could send one out and have it machined for 65 with shipping to califonia. I had mine done there, it was worth it I think it weights around 13-14 pounds now. The machine shop that did the work was called griffen's machine shop.