Careless

those bastards! so how does one remove those screws?

I see. ok, cause the picture had originally confused me a bit regarding the flow/pressure balance between the two pumps. Thanks for clearing that up Now back to the Receiver Dryer. I've pulled the one off my S14 front clip that I sawed in half to fit in my van (fun stuff!). It has a glass viewing hole, a sensor, two holes, and a bolt that is fastened on as well. A total of 5 holes if I remove the glass (which i think i will keep, so i can see if i have fuel flow =) and I can see metal disc inside that has small holes in it as well. It seems to be about the same size. Should i remove this metal disc? cause I'd imagine it would be pretty damn hard. LOL. EDIT: also, what's a good fitting size to tap into this thing, for say, a 300 - 500 hp engine.

so on any 6 cylinder, it would end up being a 120 degree header, correct? 3 collectors, and 3 exhaust? hmmmmmmmm =)

well lets put it into perspective. 1st gear, you probably don't stretch because you'd just roast the tires... second gear you can push, because in reality, it's the strongest useable gear you can stretch, so that probably puts some strain on the belt tension, and makes it expand a bit more, due to faster acceleration and torque build up. 3rd and 4th, and 5th probably don't see the same strain on the high-rpm parts, so i'd say it's highly possible. Belt flap is what causes the cas to track back a couple of holes on the 360 phase. and I've seen some videos with RB's with clear covers and no covers, and those belts flap quite a bit from what i've noticed.

then it could be the RS232 chip that I had mentioned earlier. The board I fixed needed the same fix, as the LED's werent on, and plugging in the stim and loading it on the computer did nothing either. But it did power up because once in a blue moon, i'd see an LED flash, so I knew some power was still making it somewhere down the board.

so again, does the low pressure pump have to be one that flows more than the high pressure pump to keep the system going without introducing air? that was my main concern, because I know the difference between flow and pressure, but the reservoir was posing a problem for me in the event that it runs dry.

well, i was under the impression that they were both capable of providing enough fuel to the injectors on their own, except that one was LOWER pressure than the other one, thus making it the "low pressure" pump. but if it's actually below the standard required pressure that the injectors need to provide enough fuel, than what's stopping the "high pressure" pump from sucking the resevoir dry? would one who tries to make this end up buying a low pressure high flow pump, and a high pressure "lower" flow pump?, so that the pressure is adequate, and the resevoir is always full? or is there some other trick to this thing? it's easy to look at it and say "cool, i'll make that". I'm just trying to understand the ins and outs, and the benefits of this setup, as I have one of those canisters laying around.

even the mounting tabs? here's a different pic of the RB one, located on Nismoparts.com I've noticed that an easy way to check if you have the easy to modify version is that the red ring that seals the unit denotes that it is not press fit. Atleast from comparing all these 3 pictures anyways. The difficult one looks to have a rounded edge on the sealing/bearing ring. However, the housing on this one seems to be different. It has slotted holes rather than standard ones. weiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiird.

HOLD ON.... so what you're saying is... IF i put my car into a chicken coup for 15 years... my car will look like that?! *heads to lumber mill* EDIT: *Snaps back to reality*.....

This is from the Twin VL RB30 head swap information page, found on google. Pick an RB25 engine that has a removable rubber grommet in the centre of the crank angle sensor. This denotes a crank angle sensor that can be disassembled to allow replacement of the trigger disk. This feature may be required if you plan to use a programmable ECU. Of course, I picked the wrong bloody engine didn't I, so it cost me another $150 for a crank angle sensor from an RB20 that 'could' be disassembled. Above:This is the unit that can be disassemabled easily. Instead of the collar, there are a couple of screws clamping the disc in place. Use a big hammer to punch out the pin (circled in photo) that holds the drive adaptor onto the shaft, then press the bearing off to gain access to the screws that clamp the rest of the shaft onto the trigger disc. Below: This shows the crank angle sensor that can't be disassembled easily. You can see the collar that was pressed down holding the disc in place - there was a bearing on top of that. There is no easy was of holding the collar or getting leverage under it without damaging the disc or collar.

in that case, i would try and look for a ZIF socket for the processor, so that it makes swapping them in and out a tad bit easier and less damaging to other components, since the board is a little crowded

so they're the same? weird. nismoparts.com stocks 20/25 and a separate 26 version =/ RE: the head. I hope that the oil starvation didn't cause any ♥♥♥♥-ups for the top end of the motor, as it seized due to a bearing failure down below, which is the result of monsieur oily-pump taking the high road. But I am getting a good deal on it, and the sensors and everything else (HKS cams and gears) make it worthwhile. sadly, I am not getting a transmission with the engine, but it's ok. It will be a long time before it makes it's way into the bay. my machinist said he'd recondition the head, and give it a 3 angle valve job, and adjust all the proper parameters for 300 CDN, as well as 500 CDN for port and polish of all 24 ports, as well as port matching, Then it's upto me to make the ITB setup using the factory ITB's with elongated trumpets that curve up and forward a bit. I mentioned RB30 to him and he hadn't a clue, but when I said skyline motor, he said he's worked on a couple with excellent results, and no failures yet. So should In anyone's opinion (those reading this), should I go ahead and buy the water and oil pump, as well as a gasket kit and oil pan setup, with two tensioners (pending explanation of nismoparts selection).

Thanks for taking the time to type up your response. At this point, would it just make more sense to wait for the head to arrive with the cams, and order pistons later? I guess I should set aside the amount left which I need to pay my engine supplier, and buy the other necessary goodies, like the pan, pumps, and tensioners. I got a gates powergrip GT2 150 tooth belt, to use stock idler and tensioner location, but I'll require two tensioners. Which brings me to another question (unrelated to the thread, but i'm not gonna bother making a small thread to clutter the boards for this)... so... I have the 26 head and the 30 block. Do i use 26 tensioners or 25 tensioners? I was under the impression that mostly rb25 stuff was bolt on with the RB30 block. Is the tensioner stud for the 26 any different, or is it the coil that is different? I've asked elsewhere and everyone says "ill check it out", but they don't. I understand, people are busy =)

yeah, i tried to line up my s14 cross member with my engine mounts yesterday, since my engine is upside down it didnt work out too well. LOL

Hey everyone, dont buy it from AEM. it's like 30 bucks here. http://wolfems.cart.net.au/details/106320.html

so using the specs of the Arias pistons i've listed, what can i do to get a 10.5 or thereabouts compression ratio, with 64 cc of combustion space on the head? u think maybe i'll have to deck the block and then machine the crowns of the pistons?

Woah, totally skipped that post by accident. Which wiseco set are you using? the compression height of 1.260 means i might have to deck the block 0.020 to get a reasonable quench, as the RB30 pistons are 1.280. the arias pistons i was considering are these: Suit RB30/25 p/n= AP332105 13cc dome top 21mm pin 1.280" compression height Only stocked in 0.20 thou oversize (86.5mm). COMPRESSION RATIO 9.5-9.8 I have HKS 9.15/264 cams and cam gears coming with the RB26. That's the highest you can go without getting excessive valve float on stock springs. This is why I'm trying to decide whether or not using the 13cc domed pistons to get 10.11 instead of using the 16cc wiseco's to get 9.8 is a better idea. I could take about 0.040 off the head, and get down to 10.5 or even 10.75 compression ratio, but I'm not sure if the 9.15 mm lift is ideal, again... flycuts come into play.. And ARIAS is of NO HELP WHATSOEVER (I hope they are reading this). I've emailed them twice and got the same answer with two different prices. "Custom piston required... XXX amount per piston"... BUT NO HELP with specifications and such. Also, ARIAS said they have tested over and over again with multiple heads from RB26's and come to the conclusion that it's more like 64.5 cc's or so. But others say 64cc... so i'll re-start my calcs and stick with the 64 this time. I'm using Desktop Dyno2003 software, as well as some websites to do compression ratio calculations.

question. would reversing the pump location work better? high pressure pump filling the res before the lower pressure pump can deplete it? that would always allow it to supply the car with fuel in the worst case scenario, no? any excess fuel will be pushed back to the tank. it seems like having the high pressure pump suck fuel off the low pressure pump through a reservoir instead of in-line with just a straight connection spells trouble =/

Yeah, my tools are mostly digital calibration type. By far not the best tools on the market, by any means. However they've been fairly accurate in comparison to a friend's more expensive set. And I measured the accuracy of my feeler guage with my micrometer, and it's spot on too. Thing is, I've seen some people how toss their tools on the workbench like it's not gonna do anything to them. And I'm hoping my engine builder isn't one of those people, because he seems like he knows what he's talking about. And yes, my book is the "Engine Blueprinting" book with crib sheets at the back. I guess I'll use those as a start. =)

Hi Stealth-Z, Ideally what im looking for is a workflow sheet of what people usually include in their measurements. I bought an engine blueprinting book and read it cover to cover, and it's mainly for pushrod v8's like sbc and sbf, but I need some OHV blueprints that most people look after. I also need to get the proper quench area on my RB30.26 and I might be ordering Arias pistons with a 13cc dome for 10.11 compression ratio, but I'd like to get a tad higher, maybe 10.5. But I would settle for around 10.2, knowing that I can apply a small amount of pressure (5 - 10 psi) with a high flowing turbo/inter-cooled setup that will be compact and provide the already stout engine with about 400 hp, which should be enough for the next couple of years. I'm actually thinking of readying a tri-turbo system too if i can manage to get it to fit, with some hood mods, i'd bet. but for now, 280 - 300 N/A hp is my goal, and I've got the stout spool rods, as well as some SS 308 head flanges to make a nice stepped tube exhaust header. I figure if I can make a tight as possible quench area, with a thin gasket, perhaps I can lower compression considerably with a thicker gasket, while retaining a reasonable quench if I decide to ante-up the air feed to the cylinders. I'm going to wait for my RB26 to come though, so I can use that to guage the proper thickness for gasket and height for pistons. the RB25.30 arias pistons seems to be choice right now though, without serious decking (was going to use VG30DE Pistons), which have a shorter compression height.

question, is the RB30 sump the same as the RB20 one? cause I got one with my engine and it's in perfecto condition

Hey everyone, I'm about to send my block to my machinist in the following week, and I've been taking measurements of my clearances and such and putting them into an excel sheet, as well as taking measurements for the RB30 main girdle to put together an RB30 main stud kit. I know there are about 4 AUS retailers that have ARP RB30 kits for the mains, but after talking with Al @ ARP, he assured me that If i do the measurements, and feed him the results, he can find the same bolts that these 4 distributors use when ordering and putting together their own kits. He said i'd save an Ass-load on shipping and inflation, too. Should I end up finding out all the proper specs, I will either post them here, or make some kits in a HybridZ group buy, as no one in North America stocks these kits, and these engines are getting a tad more popular. The only thing left for me to do is to calculate thread pitch/diameter of the bolts/threads in the block, as well as the depth and the thread recess. Now... I've been putting these calcs into an Excel spreadsheet for easy adjustment, as well as the blueprinting specs that I've been doing for the engine clearances and such. Does anyone have a template that they use for themselves and wouldn't mind sharing? Or am I the first person that's decided to do it this way, rather than writing it down. I figure having my own specs before giving it to the engine builder is a good way of assuring that if I ask to compare his to mine, and they're within reasonable tolerances (tools vary), that I can do this myself in the future, rather than pay someone to do so. As well, it assures me that he'll definately do it anyone have any crib sheets?

hmmm. i like this

if the Walbro feeds the Bosch pump the fuel at a positive pressure rather than the Bosch creating negative pressure to suck fuel, it would get fuel faster and have less strain, allowing it to pump more. atleast thats what I've always thought. if you cook a meal for a kid, they'll eat a lot more than if they had to cook it for themselves.

correct, i believe that is ONE of the ones i replaced, and that is what translates COM port input to work with the CPU. Thanks for the clarification on that. However there WAS another one i replaced, now that I think about it. u14 maybe? hmmmmm