Careless

which welder are you talking about?

you sure it's not the beers bogging, rather than the machine itself? LOL

got that helmet too works pretty well. it's actually made by the company called antec. there are a number of the same model on the internet, and tehy are 30 bucks canadian, but they go up in price to justify the cost of shipping, so i drove to princess auto and got one there =)

I've also been told that the RB26 dampner is as good as any, but mainly because the builder i'm talking to has built over 200 of these since '98, and told me that they all used the RB26 Dampner, and have had no problems on his 800 - 1000hp setups for various applications. So I'll try with the RB26 dampner, and see what goes.

Not so. in most cases, yes. In my case, I got my 225 amp Power Mate Century welder. It pulls a lot of amps. it's 230volts. it's old. But man can it ever lay a bead. I paid 350 Canadian, about 500 in total with all my gear, and it works better than any other 500 dollar welding kit that I've ever used Including/as well as the SP135, MM135, MigPak10 and 15, and the Clarence 130 and Mastercraft 90. Even with flux core wire (which I realized, sux monkey testicles), it works wonderfully. for 350 bucks, I can honestly say I bought a welder worth around 7 - 800 USD.

bore is 87.5, wrist pin size is 22mm, so you'll need to get some rods with 22mm small ends. you'd need to bore the stock 86.5 bore out to 87.5 or around there (specs on forged alloy clearance and warm-up delay come with the package of pistons). Effective compression is yet unknown due to me not having either the engine (over the ocean right now), the head, the pistons, or the rods (everything is going on order next month)... it should be around 10.5:1 with factory product parameters, but with some decking here and there, im sure it can be manageable. And the reduced deck height (if any) will contribute to less displacement, where the 87.5 mm bore will fill it back up to stock 3.0 litres. I'm looking to get 3.1 litres, or close to there. This is going to be one of my first COMPLETE engine rebuilds that i'll be doing for myself, so if i buy the JE pistons and they don't work out too well, then I'll just resell them for a couple hundred less or something. I figure it's better to try myself and experience the differences rather than go on hearsay. Price you pay to learn, I guess. I'll keep you guys posted of course. ROCKET INDUSTRIES has a RB30 Mainstud kit. I've called ARP and fed them the parts number, and it seems that the gentlemen helping me with sourcing the kit informed me that the rocket industries RB30 main kit is comprised of pick and pull bin bolts. If you want a set of RB30 main studs yourself, you need to get the size of main cap, measure from top to bottom with a fine micrometer, and then measure depth into the block with a depth guage. measure the taper size into the block orifaces, and measure the thread pitch and bolt size. DONT ASSUME that all the holes are the same. check them all. be smart about it! They will then source out the sizes of bolts needed to make you a kit. I was told to do it this way by the ARP rep because he too explained to me that getting them from Rocket would cost an arm and a leg in shipping, and that he can do it for substantially cheaper. So if anyone has already pieced togehter one of these for themselves, and sells them here, let me know. Or else I'm going to piece them together myself and sell them here for a substantially reduced price to keep Hybridz flourishing with RB30 yum-yum =)

that's not a characteristic of the engine itself. it is a quality that is inherent with all engines that are 20+ years old. you gotta understand that RB30's are just about that old, and to build an RB30 that can whitstand prolonged abuse, you would have to build it with parts comprised of a mish-mash of items from about 5 to 10 blocks. in the case of RB30's, you should ALWAYS rebuild the bottom end, and put in some new rods for good measure. replace all the rotating bits, and balance the entire rotating assembly. add to the fact that RB30's are a touch over-squared in terms of bore/stroke, and you can readily see why keeping revs within a realistic range are ideal. I've compiled a naturally aspirated engine on Dyno2003 desktop software, and I've managed to make power all the way upto 9200 rpm, but peak torque is 268 ft-lbs at 5000rpm. peak power in excess of 9000 is unrealistic for my driving habits and applications, but knowing that the power is there is cool. im putting spool rods, je VG30DE 10.5:1 pistons, stock headgasket (or thinner, for higher compression.... want to get 11:1 max) and acl race bearings inside my shortblock. RB26 head with HKS cams and cam gears. not sure if im going to rebuild the valve train first time around. safe RPM limit for me is going to be around 7600. valve float might be an issue at 8000+, but that's mostly it. GET YOUR CRANK balanced, and get your CRANK COLLAR installed, or else you'll be having trouble balancing your cheque book shortly after un-balancing all the parts in your engine due to oil starvation. AND, no matter what you're building (Turbo, Super, or N/A), get the oil oriface machined and tapped and either ready for use or blocked off if you're going N/A). save yourself the time of doing it later if you decide N/A is not good enough. p.s. - one of the individuals advising me on my build before taking it to machining is one of the well-reknowned RB builders on the SAU 200 page thread.

mine too

thats probably why i couldnt find a damn thing.

there's a company called Rocky Road, i believe, in japan. They carb all the RB's and they toss them into the the S30's and KPGC10's and 110's to boot, and sell them as a complete car! Their inventory is quite awesome.. I tried linking the page but i forget the URL... anyone?!

u thikn they would have grinded the sucker down a bit to save face down the road. sheesh! LOL my first pass with my 225 amp blew a hole through a piece of bar stock, and i was proud of it cause that's what i was trying to accomplish at max output... but this.... this is just....a crime

rivets look a little hack. they're ok i guess, but i wouldnt use them. I'd use a nice square even shaped allen head bolt with a washer that has a small taper on the outside diameter, to give it some detail. my roommate has a set of bolts for his license plate cover that I will probably be buying to use for my flares

<3

hahaha, that's what i paid for my 225 amp Powermate, and MAN can this thing ever throw a bead down. Forget sizzling steak. it sounds like a jet-liner, it's so smooth! HORRAY FOR 350 DOLLAR (currency unmentioned) WELDERS and THEIR PURCHASERS! mine was made in 87! so 20 years old CHYEAAAAAAAA

3 ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ dollars? wtf man, i'll ship you some 94 from canada and still turn a profit! LOL

and don't forget to scrub it until you can see yourself in it! and make sure it's a smiley face when you finally do!

DO what you feel like doing. I think that's what make z's cool. their owners are as unique as the cars themselves. =) all the power to ya! amen!

I have been reading the same book, and I find that it's overly repetative, and not as descriptive as i would like to be. not as much formula as well as certain application specific insight. for example, it makes no mention of what's better to use in a certain situation, or has examples of work concluding the theories in the book. like Alpha-N vs Map vs Speed Density or what have you. it mentions them, describes them, but doesnt break them down or compare them very well. good book though =) I'm almost done. this book is taking me about 5 times longer than the corky bell book now. the typography is quite dense and small.

well then AEM sounds like the EMS of choice in your case. But there are tuners who are willing to learn another EMS system at a discounted rate, which is good. Provided they don't tinker with it to the point of your engine exploding.... which is also something that should be descused prior. LOL

does the RB24 have the same head as the RB30?

where =)

lol... it was corzette, wasn't it?!

awww =( i was hoping the blending into the door would be more gradual and make the car look more like a wedge closer to the front. but ♥♥♥♥, you did this in like what... a couple of weeks?? goddamn you, buooooy! you do some good work =)

i wouldn't bother with the PowerFC for the money it costs. but lemme ask you, is this the last thing you need at this point? if not, you could try using the money for something else, or if it is, then just save and wait. get a full unit like a Links or Microtech or even Wolf3D

there are some other options for plugin options, as well as guides that you can download to help you with your particular application. I don't see why AEM is the only choice here. but carry on...