Careless

so why not make it out of aluminum?

by "working" that body line, do you mean he made it more noticeable, or less?

anyone with any info lately?

i've used Silvo and Brasso metal polish before on headlights. You know, those dirty old plastic headlights that turn piss yellow and aren't clear at all after a couple of years? turned out clear as glass!

what's everyone's opinion on repainting an oil pan? they come with a black coating from factory, most of the time. What do you do for the hidden areas inside? (other than the obvious two; cut, or fab a custom aluminum one)

started this one, never got around to finishing it. also definately not my best work. probably won't bother finishing it either =/

Now i see why my Filipino room mate is so flamboyant. No matter where you go in the Philippines, even if you're surrounded by murders and pedophiles, you have nothing to do, but dance.

=) will do, gents! merci. EDIT: so what is the correct length and thread/pitch

The worst part about those pictures is that the engine seems like you can get it to start up and turn over on it's own power sooner than i would with my real engine hate'chu!

for the demo piece on the top is what it looks like. but for the under-car shot, it seems like new hardware. s'like 3 bucks.

jmortensen pointed it out before I did, but I think you missed it

that's not nearly as bad as mine, so keep at it

it can be done if you think it's worth having it done. plain and simple.

those flares are not the same. that z uses bubble flares, while the flares shown are more like z28 camaro flares that are concave. I'm going to be making a set of flares similar to the spirit garage white z flares.

so I bought a 1250 lb engine support stand. and the bolts don't fit into the holes on the RB, but the bolts that do fit look to be pretty week for a long iron block. How did you fasten your engine to your stand? On the FSM, it shows the RB being mounted from the side using two special plates. My friend has the same engine stand holding up a 350, and it's been there for years. But that's with the bolts it came with. With the bolts to fit the RB, im worried.

so ruvry! <3

now you'd have to run like two gaskets wouldnt you?

how much is cheap!? im gonna order, cause my head is coming in soon!

try it

2.93? holy highway monster.

yeah, if i were to do any colt, i'd keep it simple, cheap, and fast, and do a FWD DSM colt.

I see. I searched for 240hoke's posts and didnt see that. But it doesnt contain the info I wanted anyways. I'm curious to know how we get the goo out of the channel that keeps the lights in place and seals them. I can only get so much out of there, and i think it's going to get in the way of new sealant. 78zlt1 had posted his method for doing it, but I've tried that too, and even with a heat gun to heat it up, and i dont find it clean enough. Maybe it was the cold weather that made it hard to remove. I'll try again this week =) thanks for the link!

noiceeeeeeeeeeee

this is what most would do, until they find out that the heatshrink cant slip over 3 ends of the wire. your best bet is to heatshrink all wires so that it's as close to the T area where it's soldered, and get it real close. Then fold the hanging wire carefully back against the main wire, and then heat shrink it tightly with a larger guage heatshrink, then you can curve it back to the injectors, carefully, so that you don't stretch the shrunken heatshrink to the point where it cracks. and make sure that if you're using copper wire (most would), that you don't heat it too much or use a soldering iron that is more than 15 - 20 watts, as you will heat up the copper and crystalize it, so that it snaps when you bend it (which you sort of have to do) I'm wondering if any electrical place has small snap-in plastic T-wired covers, so that you can snap them over a nicely soldered T, and then heatshrink up to the ends of the T, to seal them. But they'd have to be thin so that they are nice to look at, or not look at, which would be the point in making it unnoticeable.

the best thing to do is try and keep moisture out of the sand by putting it in a sealed container or something, and having the smaller tube (vacuum tube) far away using some sort of rubber hose. spray from the washer enters the vac tube and causes it to clog.