Careless

it's a good thing i have a lot of metal layin around in the backyard, and it's a good thing i have a friend comin over with some rusty bike wheels =) i'll be trying it today. thing is, i don't have a powerful pressure washer, so i have to use what I have. a simoniz 1500 psi 1.7 gpm. this hose works at 1800 psi at 7 gpm, or upto that. I'll see what happens, and let you know. I also have a bottle with concrete etcher so we can spray that on afterwards, to get it to stop rusting. I don't want to try it on my car just yet. ill let you know, and take pics of the aftermath (i dont have the digi here right now)

yeah i heard the crank walk issues are long gone, the bearing failure issues i've read about are non existant, and the Evo engine (i was told) has always rotated the in the opposite direction of the FWD version. my friend who wants to put an EVO motor in his AE86 was concerned due to incompatability with the corolla's driveline or something, so he was doing quite a bit of research. However he's not the most technical guy, and neither am i, but he did come up with some good info. if it were an 4G, it would be the Evo one for me.

why are you etching your own pcb? when you file and cut those brown pcb boards that have no cladding on the back, you can literally join each LED terminal to eachother cause they're so close. or you can use the ones that have cladding on each hole to secure them down (non linked cladding, obviously) and connect them through soldering a thin line from hole to hole (im sure you're good at soldering if you're going all out). the PCB shape is literally almost square. but i guess if you have a sweeping motion, it requires some lights to trigger before others or something? there is also a program on the net that allows you to choose how many LEDs you need and how to wire them up with which resistors and where to put them, after you input the data for your LED's, like amperage, forward voltage, and required voltage, and all that poo.

does anyone know of any books on header and intake design? like a really healthy book dedicated to the science... with theory, and results based on worth-while tests, rather than hearsay? I think most of the books I've come across generally have a small section related to naturally aspirated motors. Or what's even more common, is that when they do have a lot of info, they tend to contradict not only other books, but themselves too in a lot of cases. I'm particularly after header and intake / valvetrain setup for naturally aspirated motors. (inline 6 = better, if that's what the book is based on)

searched through almost all his threads he started, couldn't find.

Guys, Northern Tool comes highly recommended. I bought the smaller water blasting hose at $19.99 (Item# 2242), and a pair of chemical and abrasive resistant blasting gloves at $2.19 (Item #170135). I later received a call from my parents, stating that I had received two packages in the mail. One was heavy, and one was not.... I've put together pressure-blasting guns before, and I know those aren't that heavy... and a pair of gloves? can't be that heavy either..... Maybe they sent me the up-rated pressure-blasting gun? Nope, that couldn't be heavy either. Instead, they delightfully sent me a 1.5 x 2 foot box of gloves, because they love me so much. 6 plastic wrapped packs with about 8 pairs each inside. Love you, Northern Tool! What ever will I do with 48 pairs of heavy duty long-arm gloves.... <3 Raff. p.s - their database is having issues on their website. Perhaps they couldn't afford their monthly hosting bills due to a warehouse slip up? p.p.s - Love you, Northern Tool!

OK, Final straw. I'm checking the entire Gates Racing Belt Catalogue on their parts information catalogue site (since their PDF is only an informational on the quality and craft of the item) here we go: Wont Work: T142RB = not enough teeth, wrong pitch/length T145RB = not enough teeth, wrong pitch/length T184RB = not enough teeth, no mention of pitch/length T201RB = not enough teeth, wrong pitch/length T215RB = not enough teeth, right pitch T216RB = not enough teeth, no mention of pitch T224RB = not enough teeth, wrong pitch/length T227RB = not enough teeth, wrong pitch/length T245RB = too many teeth, wrong pitch/length T247RB = not enough teeth, wrong pitch, correct length though T294RB = not enough teeth, wrong pitch, length is close T304RB = way too many teeth, wrong pitch/length T312RB = not enough teeth, wrong pitch/length T328RB = way too many teeth, wrong pitch/length Might Work: T167RB = 153 teeth, tooth pitch is 9.5 though, making it 1400 mm long (too long) T179RB = 145 teeth, 8mm pitch T237RB = too many teeth at 159, proper pitch though. So how does this company have a gates racing belt. They didn't say it was custom made, and they said they "tested their findings" with their DOHC engines, and they worked out, so I KNOW they're not custom. stagefumer11, how did you verify that number?

did some more checking. there are two more belts that are close, however, gates doesn't make a belt for either car. the Contitech CT522, and the CT760 are for a plethora of renaults, as well as a 2.1 diesel Jeep XJ. both of which we didn't get here, so Gates doesn't make a belt for them However, these belts are 148 teeth, and are probably not the proper size, since 150 for the lower tensioners i've heard is not a good idea, since it's not properly tensioned on both sides for whatever reason. 148 teeth might clear, but that makes the belt 1184 mm long (that's assuming that it actually is a 8mm pitch, which I can't seem to find info on) I can't cross reference with Gates, but they are dayco numbers 94361, 94196, and 94328. they are 148 teeth x 25.4 mm, so that's about an inch, which is right. but I can't find pitch or length specs, because gates is the only place that has that information and they don't make belts for either engine. I have managed to get two Gates numbers, but they don't turn anything up 5244XS and 5040. nothing shown. I got a lot of info from this place http://www.faiauto.com/Club/SearchResults.aspx?Where=0&Type=1&PartNumber=5244XS and http://www.faiauto.com/Club/SearchResults.aspx?Where=0&Type=1&PartNumber=TB156 and http://www.faiauto.com/Club/PartDetails.aspx?PartNumber=45148

in google that belt comes up with only a PDF for a performance outlet for engine packages, and it is listed under a Mitsu Mirage 4G93T, which is a 1.8 litre DOHC. It uses, as a cross reference with gates and dayco, a 151 tooth 9.5mm pitch belt. That means that the teeth won't wrap around the crank drive gear properly, as it requires a 8mm pitch. It is also 1438mm long, the required length for a top tensioner mod is 1216mm long. Where did you get that number from? it doesnt even show up in their catalogue, which is why I had to do some more cross-ref to see if that's the correct belt. In all honesty, I'll sell the timing belt I have to someone from the VW crowd for 50 bucks flat, if I can get the proper racing belt.

VERY slick. good choice =)

i honestly think there is a serious boost leak. cause it seems like it makes almost no boost at all.

Oh, i see. I was wondering because it doesnt seem like it's pressurizing or something. seems sluggish, but it could be a combination of the clutch and the lag? perhaps a vaccuum leak?

seems a little slow, i hope you're not flooring it. glad you're getting to drive it and get a feel for it though =)

hey chris/rob. do you know justin daniels by chance? he sent me pics of a z like yours that he said was getting an RB. =) great to see you on your way. hope you enjoy it

for 165 whp and 200 tq, i think you could build a nicer, better, and just as cheap L6, considering your car came with one =/

I'm wondering how everyone cleaned out the channel, it's a bitch to get it all out of there, im using a heat gun and some goo-gone, but its not that great. its good for removing residue off the lenses, and it does also crack them at some points. so if anyone has any tricks? I'm LED'in them =)

fsm doesn't say?

that obx unit is definately not brand new. look at the chamfers on the helical gears, it looks as though the ends of each tooth have been chipped off. and 1 bolt missing, and 2 odd bolts? that's not right at all

and you're crazy.

why not just start a small used equipment company and generate some kind of client base?

i know what he was asking, i was just told that there was a variance, even in the s13 models, which had nothing to do with the S14/S15 cam timing control. =/ wrong info i guess. but the roll-out info i listed should be correct.

lol... right on. it's a good thing the ol' charlie trophy isn't on any tombstone with his name on it...... yet.

JustJap.com has a Gates racing belt that they claim will work on the RB30DE + T, but upon emailing them and asking him if it was for the lower tensioner or the upper tensioner location, or if he could give me the Gates belt number to make sure which belt it was (closest is the T167RB, which is part of a set with the T168RB for the mitsubishi engines), he wouldn't cough it up. I understand, but atleast an indication of which location the tensioner should be in would be nice. However, I'm going to call gates myself when I put on my T291 belt. I'll see what kind of wear it goes through and then i'll judge whether or not I want to change it. The question about heat is in regards to friction from the tensioners. If you don't use TWO tensioners, you can't get the proper tension (too much), or you get too much slack. that would heat up the belt on the flat side (tight) or the tooth side (slack) and cause faster failures. something we got to solve, but I think we're ok for now.

the port design on one has been mentioned to be different, aside from the fins on the front portion of the head, which some of BOTH engines had, depending on what year you grabbed it from. s13 180sx's had red tops that replaced the CA18. they were from 91-93. s13 silvias had red tops that replaced the CA18. they were from 91-94 s13 180sx's then came out with the black top in 94-98. s13 silvia's came with both red and black tops (very late model) in 94, the s13 silvia's last year of production. s14 silvias had s14 black tops from 95, up until the s15 came out, then it was replaced with the s15 blacktop. s13 180sx had s13 blacktops alongside all s14 silvias (s14 zenki and s14 kouki) therefore, you will find much fresher s13 180sx engines in some cases, if they're blacktops. the difference between the high port heads is that the port, by design, was further away from the block deck surface (higher if looked at from the side, and down into the port) than the low port heads, which had the ports cast at a less steep angle, and made the intake path more obtrusive. the high ports have a more direct shot into the cylinders, whereas the low port have more a restriction, being it is a tighter arc within the casting, apparently. maybe an SR specialist can tell you what to look for when purchasing though. this is off the top of my head from back when i was on 240sxforums in about 1998, i think my account is still there, imma check EDIT: 1600 posts, and still loggin in, years later damn, i just noticed im not posting here enough =( *spam spam spam spam*

my 76 dont have that =/