Careless

i think they probably measure it with the headgasket on or something... either way it's dumb and/or rediculous. but apparently a lot of RB26 heads have differed. so who knows? I'm going to call my machinist tomorrow.

hope all is well!

stony, im just curious. what was the cause of it taking 4 years, really? i mean... wtf? looks like a huge project, but 4 years on just the chassis? i think someone took the measure twice and and cut once thing a bit overboard or something. LOL

id lower it an inch in the back and it would look perfect great choice, you two!

maybe it's the relay itself? they are a little hard to get a hold of. however when i thought i blew mine, i looked on the floor of my car, and whaddayaknow?! another efi relay.

18 is good enough, 16 is for a rock crawler. LOL

use a weld grinding stone or a plain old flapdisc/grinding disc, and cut down those welds before you decide to add more metal to it

its on the front just over the right side lower portion, where those 3 vents are (im guessing those are to be cut out?)

the crease makes the car. it has the elegance and highlights the curves well like a woman laying on her side someone hot, like monica belucci or something. hmmm, maybe i'll call her monica

woah woah. hold on. 66 cc? arias claims 64.5, and a lot of NZ doods claim 64 flat. ideally i'd need to drop my cc by 4 on the head side, and i could run into an 10.5 or so. I'm, going to go calc some more with dyno2003.

speaking of cool gaskets, Cometic has their new Phuzion line, which as gaseous filled o-rings that need not be fitted into a scribed channel on the block deck. they have a superior seal to regular MLS gaskets, apparently.

if you were gonna' park'er , i would have tried on the last run. LOL good fun though. glad you enjoyed your new found joy go win some races to afford that clutch

unless you're REALLY creative. LOL, and not to mention daring / stupid. depending on how well you are at being creative. example, i've seen someone start an engine with a steering wheel, 3 bolts, and some muscle on an engine support made of an old semi-complete rollcage that had rusted to hell.

Stealth-Z had emailed me regarding them already, however, I think if you're selling them, it's ok to post here: Compression height, overbore size if any, dome height, compression ratio on a RB30 or RB26 (whatever application they are originally for). basically what you request when ordering them (unless they're off the shelf)

WELL INSULATED

i think this will be an interesting combo =) good luck, mang

what are the rest of the specs on the pistons. I will consider them if i can work with the CR by decking the head. I don't mind decking it a mm or more.

im trying to get 11.25:1 lol i'd love to buy them from you for a good price, but i don't think they'd have enough dome height on them. they need 16cc atleast, or i'd need to chop the head quite a bit. then I would have to machine some reliefs in the pistons too =/

not neccessarily old school. Ducati's still use it. But the problem is that most of the advancements in that area of valve train design are patented by Ducati... so

Oh don't worry about that. I got the T291 gates belt, and it looks like it's gonna work fine. Ideally, I'd like to have the gatorback belt, but I can't find anyone local who can get it. I'll try with this belt in about 2 months or so, when my RB26 gets here, and the time for compression calculation starts. Thanks for your help, though! It's why I love this Z Community

here's something to append, then =) http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=785743#post785743 you may remember that I was asking you about pistons and such. well that's still being sorted out. What I do know is that there was a thread about the oil restrictors in which someone asked for final confirmation on restrictor size, and there was nothing posted after that. so i'm not sure if anyone is going to give solid information on that. What I do have written down though, is that RB25/30 should use 2 x 1.25 mm restrictors, and RB26/30 should be blocked off on one side, and has 1.5mm on the other. seeing as that makes the RB25 pump and drain more than the RB26, I would assume that the RB20 would be close to or the same as the RB25, due to them both being hydraulic rather than solid lifter, if that makes a difference. And both of them have VTC oil pressure solenoids in some cases, no? all places where oil can hide and not lend itself to more problematic areas, I think.

yeah I couldn't get the Dayco, but I compared the Gates T291 with the Dayco belt that came with the RB30 that I have, it was left over from the SOHC head, and the tooth profile and pitch and belt thickness is EXACTLY the same, so being that it's the right size now, I am sure it will work. 99.9% sure it's the same as the dayco 94407 which is the same as the dayco 94680. I did this research because all the RB30 boards and threads were not being too helpful in regards to the belts, simply because they have access to most things over there, whereas we have to find work arounds. and the 8MGT-30 belt doesnt seem to fit, however some say it does. But I believe they are chatting up hearsay rather than experience.. which is common, but what I have here is research with some experimentation. It's understandable, though, and I don't blame anyone, simply because they have no need to find alternatives. So that's where I've come in. Time will tell, when it goes on the engine =)

Hey everyone, Since I'm starting to get deep into the build now (only need pistons to be sorted out, really), I've not been able to come across the Dayco 94407 belt, or any of it's cross-reference counterparts from other manufacturers, such as Gates, Goodyear, and Bosch. I suspect the reason is because we never got the 1.7 liter diesel mazda engine that the belt was supplied for. (we, being the North American countries). What I've done was some sleuthing to get the proper belt here in west. And I've come up with some pretty good results, I'd say. I ended up buying a Gates PowerGrip GT2 1200-8MGT-30, which does not wrap around the crank sprocket drive gear properly. The teeth are not Trapezoidal or Modified Curvilinear, they are just Curvilinear, therefore they are too thick and don't allow the belt to fully circulate the gear or even 1/3 of it. Some reported that when tensioning the belt on, it will work. I have trouble believing that. And if it's true, I have trouble believing that it's going to last. HOWEVER, the belt in question is the strongest timing belt i've ever laid my hands on. It is VERY sturdy, amazingly well constructed, and like no belt I've ever seen, and the tooth profile seems as though it will be quiet as heck if it were to work. But, I don't feel comfortable using it just yet. And so begins my research. I found that most of the compatible belts are for volkswagen and audi 1.8T engines with designated engine code versions that differ slightly from others. On one engine, there is a belt with 153 teeth rather than the 152 required, or mostly used. I think this would still work if you positioned the tensioner in a slightly different position, however, I'll go with what's tested and has had fair results. What I've found is that the reason for volkswagen going from 152 teeth to 153 is due to the fact that their hydraulic tensioner they use starts to fail (did they take a page out of the Alfa 164S design schematics? lol) after a while and it starts to cause a lot of belt flap, and tooth shearing. They've since replaced the belt tensioner with a mechanical or better hydraulic version, and it requires a belt that has 1 more tooth, or is 8mm longer (measure from end to end of two teeth). And here are my belt part-number search results: BELT GUIDE FOR DOHC RB30 CONVERSIONS Upper Tensioner Relocation Method. Required Belt Length: 1216 mm Required Belt Width: 25 mm Required Tooth Pitch: 8mm Required Tooth Profile: Trapezoidal (prefered) or Modified Curvilinear Required Number of Teeth: 152 Compatible Belts: Gates T291 Goodyear Gatorback 40291 Bosch BT866 Dayco 94680 Dayco 94407 Continental Contitech CT919 (OEM volkswagen belt supplier) Factory Position - Dual Lower Tensioner Method. Required Belt Length: 1200 mm Required Belt Width: 23 to 25 mm Required Tooth Pitch: 8mm Required Tooth Profile: Trapezoidal (prefered) or Modified Curvilinear Required Number of Teeth: 150 Compatible Belts: Gates T306 Goodyear Gatorback 40306 Bosch BT306 Dayco 94777 Continental Contitech CT909 (OEM volkswagen belt supplier) Gates PowerGrip GT2 1200-8MGT-30 cut down to 25mm from 30mm at factory (Not Compatible, teeth must be ground down to proper depth, this is not safe and will not last very long, given the belt's woven structure!!!) This is a list of belts that i've compiled through comparing my new T291 belt to the stock SOHC dayco replacement belt for the RB30E. It fit exactly the same around the crank sprocket, so I did some sleuthing and cross referencing, and this is a list of belts that SHOULD be compatible. When I say SHOULD, I mean that someone mentioned the GT2 to be compatible, and it was not. These belts are in comparison to the level of compatibility shown by the GT2. Even if you've got a GT2 on your DE conversion, it most likely does not fit as well as these ones listed above do.

I was going to add to this... If the RB25 has a 60 mm pipe floating over the valve cover, and the RB30 is only 38 mm taller, if you moved the crossover pipe, you would have about 22 mm of clearance, plus what was there with the RB25. This is assuming you have an RB25 head on the RB30 block. makes sense, no?

I'm not far along enough in my build to help you, but there is someone on this board with an RB30DETT that's in the works, maybe he'll chime in.