Careless

well. i'm building an RB30DE in N/A trim that I'm using an Rb26 head to make. It's going to the machinist on Monday. I'll let you know what's involved. but so far it's 800 for my RB30 block. 2100 for a blown RB26 that I'm pulling all that I need from (sensors, itb's head, cams, ignition parts, etc. etc.). It also comes with a pair of HKS cams and cam gears on the side (so 4 cams total). and 900 for Spool RB30 rods. probably another 1200 for pistons. 300 for bearings. 1500 for machining. and then i need a transmission and engine management and water/oil pump and some other misc bits... another 1000 RB30 building is not cheap. But I'm sure it will be fun. I actually might sell the 4 cams and get 2 really long and high cams to make some real power. in reality, for an RB30DE (without a turbo setup) of this magnitude, you're looking at 8 to 10k Canadian. In regards to turbo, my engine here could handle well over 650 - 700 hp. But then the oil pump and all that start to become a problem. as well as fuel delivery, and ignition strength. anything over 600 is where it really starts to add up, and we haven't even talked about clutch or flywheel assemblies, and the 1000 dollar oil pumps required to feed the engine.

any info on this "ITS" tony?

on the contrary, sand mixed with water will dry up and become a sandy haze within every nook and cranny it gets into, therefore, you will- at some point, have sand inside every nook and cranny.

hey cubes =) looking to append to the RB30 guide

well i DO have a 250 mm computer fan that spins at less RPM and flows more CFM than the comparable 120 or 92 mm counterparts.

any reason for mig rather than tig? and it looks badass, btw

this could be designed for any motor, really. but then you'd have to get stronger rods and possibly stronger wrist pins to take all that thrashing. not to mention a lightweight and beefed up valvetrain so that the valves dont heat up and stretch themselves when smacking the seat.

i saw that on tv too, and i wanted to get an attachment for my 1500 psi electric unit here. albeit it wont be nearly as strong, but my neighbour across the street got a 3500 psi unit, and I'll ask him if he wants the kit. I'll buy it for him, and he can keep it, as long as I can use it with his power washer but for now, i ordered the 1500 psi version to use on my own machine. we'll see how it goes. I'm going to sandblast my subframe and rust-bullet spray it.

bummed FPR or faulty pump, i'd say :/ have you checked your fuel filter?

and reproduce, and resell things to ppl who don't have the resources, nor the huge cash to get someone to make custom parts.

why not atleast give it a nice hone to see what you can make of it? the first pic (last score on the right) looks to be the deepest.

are they still the same price? and do you mean RB20 oil pans that we can use with the front sump, or are they the regular rear sump ones that are the same as the RB30 one i have =/

would that eliminate the chances of air getting into the system though, as it would have to syphon from a pool of gas sitting at the bottom rather than funnel the gas dropping in and splashing around as you said in a post earlier? I'm probably gonna end up using the stock 280z FI fuel pump to pump in, and the new pump that i will get will pump out. both will have a higher pressure than 30 psi though, so is that going to be a problem =/ ? i got the fittings yesterday, but now i have to drill out the holes and tap them, and the tap/die set i have has no such fitting. only 1/4 NPT. =(

I'm at work so i haven't the time to read the equation, however - i will once i get home. thanks question though. since my 'voir has 4 inlets at the top, can i instead, drill a hole through one so that I can stick a pickup tube in there, and have that as the main pump pick up, rather than have the return fuel line dropping gasoline on the lower barb fitting? would that eliminate the air to any degree?

simply badass

do you know of any check valves that one could use for the air-release? I have 4 holes on the top of my 240sx s14 dryer. 2 of them are already tapped. One was for a pressure sensor, and the other was blocked off (perhaps they are mounted differently in JDM cars, so they make two sensor bungs) I could now tap one for rail-return, and one for aeration. Any ideas? EDIT: how about this, with a crank-case vent filter: http://cgi.ebay.com/LINDE-REVERSE-FLOW-CHECK-VALVE_W0QQitemZ180080986141QQihZ008QQcategoryZ67059QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

lol, that gasket is probably even reusable.

THOSE asswhipes told me they didnt have any Z32 transmissions =( wtf man.

cheerio! i wonder if the mastercraft "grab-bit" would work on that too. mind you they arent they best tool, always a "best 2 out of 3" ordeal with them, but it would make the job a lot easier.

can't wait to hear my RB30DE with ITB's

good point. i guess i'll have to find a bolt to block off those holes =) but the glass eyelet on this receiver driver is a neat tool to check if fuel actually is in there im gonna drill it out for 3/8'ths for now, and if i need to go bigger, I will. Im just at my dads house who has a drill press, so I gotta get it squared no, or i wont get it done for a while. not like i will be using it any time soon anyways, but i want to be able to do something worthwhile with my time.

New Update that I came across on Ebay. Not sure if it was mentioned. TB42 also came in the Ford Maverick. .... seems as though Chevy isn't the only company Nissan decided to give an I6 to.

awesome, I'll clean the unit up on the outside using a wire wheel later today, and I'll inspect what kind of holes i need to make. I think i might have enough so that I dont even have to make one.. but I'd like to relocate one to the bottom anyways. Heck, I might as well buy a small fuel pressure guage to shove into one of the holes so I can tell how much pressure I have in the 'voir too

well the entire reason for this is due to having exhaust pulses colliding with eachother in a regular "catch-all" collector setup, as I'll call it. so since all the cylinders on an I6 are not firing at the same time, I figure 3 separate collectors would work the same here. it would be a 120 degree exhaust, as each collection is 120 degrees out of phase in regards to the next one. so tube 1 and 6 would be the first and longest pipes, tube 5 and 2 would be just short of that, and tube 3 and 4 would be the shortest, so that when the 3-4 firing has completed, all exhaust pulses arrive at the collector at the same time.