Careless

Hey, another ontarian! if you could take a couple of pics of the inside and outside of the roll tensioner, that'd be awesome. I'll compare the size that I need and see if I can get it somewhere, or make it myself if unavailable. Pop N Wood, nothing wrong with a hybrid welder. I'm thinking of turbocharging it with a fourth high-output capacitor, or upgrading the stock tri-setup to a big dual. If there's room in the engine bay, I could probably get away with a Y3K big single.

Hey Quentin, If you end up buying a restrictor from XS, lemme know, I might pick one up too if you can order it, and we'll meet up and yada yada yada

lol, im reconsidering my RB30 build. L52? WICKED. hahaha. LS1's for breakfast, and LS7's for dinner so if the firing order is altered, one would need a custom set of cams, and to reposition the distributor/spark plug wires, correct?

from the looks of the thread topic, it seems as though you are giving away/selling 17 individual used slicks.

full race doesnt carry N/A RB headers, do they?

how about including some dyno/engine specifications information =) that would make this quite comprehensive

MSA IMSA street flares. discontinued. if you want to see how nice they would look on your car, and cry about it like i do =( then go look at marc rolstons car :'( Im going to make my own anyways, so blah.

So I've been using my Powermate 225 amp mig for a while now. Must say, I love the way it welds. I'm having a problem with the reel tension though. The guy who sold it to me gave it to me for dirt cheap because he knew it wasn't "perfect" in its current condition, and he had rigged up a wooden mechanism to put tension on the reel. I removed that and made an equally efficient tensioner using two magnets, that the reel would swerve through, like an s turn, and huge against the edges of both. Now that works too, but I want a real tensioning mechanism. what works best, exactly? im not sure what this welder came with, and im not sure how most other welders i've used are built, because i only used them in short bursts, and never had to adjust anything myself. some i see are just like a gas cap with a bolt through the top to hold the reel to the drive mechanism. but im willing to bet this one is different. I went to the welders depot and he got some lincoln nozzle parts for me, which are perfect. But the rest of the stuff, he can't get. =( any ideas? its a horizontal mount, so the roll sits flat. and it accepts those really big 25 lbs rolls (which i got for free with the welder ), possibly more. right now im using a 10 lbs flux-cored until i get some gas.

also, are you using the HD44780 LCD Controller circuit with your VFD? I built a 40x4 LCD for computer management and information display. the weirdest thing happened when I FIRST got it to boot up. i was fiddling with the RSS Feed, and the VERY first thing it said when I confirmed it was working was "Saddam Hussein has been captured" I was like "GAHHHHHHH, THIS THING IS POSSESSED!" and sure enough, I hopped onto cnn.com, and it was telling no lies! I'm curious as to how you will interface it with the Megasquirt? I've not read into doing that with the MS I Have sitting here for a 4AGTE project.

just got my rb26 exhaust flanges for the same reason gonna make a nice tubular header for my N/A RB30DE i'm gonna have to mig weld it though. what do you think is the best metal for this application?

wiki info, not sure how accurate: Straight-6 [edit] H30 The H30 is a 3.0 L (2974 cc) straight-6 version produced from 1965. Bore was 83 mm, and stroke was a long 100 mm, producing a very undersquare design. Output was a low-revving 130 hp (97 kW) and 173 ft.lbf (235 Nm). Applications: 1965 Nissan President H150 1967 Datsun C80

that's somewhat of a thoughtless thing to say. a lot of people are considered "professionals" at what they do, yet others are just inherently better at the same things because they just have that touch. you don't really have to be "world reknowned" im sure all hobbyist engine builders or hobbyist car restorers aren't the best in the world, yet return comparable results using whatever tools they have in some cases, and I wouldn't consider it a miracle, I would consider it patience.

Anyone in Canada looking to buy a good grinder/chopping tool. I went to canadian tire to get a jobmate 34 dollar grinder with two discs. then i found that last years mastercraft grinder is on sale with 10 cutting discs, 10 metal grinding discs, 10 masonry grinding discs, all for 34 dollars. (on sale from 150) I got that last week, and used it yesterday for the first time, and it is better than I had hoped. Just as an indication of how much you're saving here; the grinder alone is worth about 59. the discs are usually anywhere from 4 - 8 bucks a piece depending on quality, so we'll go with 6 for an average. thats 6 x 30 = 180 + 50 = 230 dollars worth of grinding utensils for 42 bucks or so with tax. im not sure if it's still on sale, but this thing is really good. and it has 3 handle positions, 1 on either side and one on the top face, so that you can grind things horizontally with greater ease in various positions. check it !

ill buy it for 300. LOL

put them glass-packs on them waste-pipes!

there is a thread on Skylines australia and Calais Turbo forums on how to get rid of the high-rpm misfires. you can paint them with clear acylic nail-polish, or get the splitfires (which most people do, but some report the same problems after)

you can buy polarizing film in squares that are larger than the required area. cut to fit and they are adhesive backed, so it's a bitch to position, but it gets on there nice and works well. make sure to test the angle u need to polarize before cutting and sticking (polarizing film lets light in only at certain directions, and can sometimes completely block them in others.

give it up for pete, he's the one that provides all the details. that's his website. i think his screen is alteredz on this forum

i'm going to do something similar to what' been shown here, by Peter Paraska on his website about his V8 Z Venture. http://alteredz.com/structuralmods.htm I'm not using the same dimensions, but it's as informative as you should need. and having a rotissieri makes this i'd say atleast 10 times easier.

i guess since i'll be taking my engine to a machinist i can see if he can gun drill a 6.5 mm dowel in various sizes and turn them down to spec for the RB-Z crowd we have here Ill prolly have em less than 10 bucks if it's worth while.

so do we have to donate? cause i'd be interested in being a member since i'll be making my own rear spoiler and underspoilers =/

tomei sells restrictors in sizes ranging fro 1.0, 1.2, and 1.5 mm ID sizes what are they made of though? Factory ones are brass I think. the others look like either stainless or aluminum.

since you have a roti, cut and weld in some beefy rails =) or are u restoring to original? i would redo that quarter panel. i have to do that on mine, it's much worse. I dont think i can even raise my car with a roti, because it might just crumble and break in half =/

I recommend "Circa 1890" Paint stripper.. i think that's the year it says on the can. It's a vertical paint stripper, in that it can stick to surfaces because it's a gel. It's VERY good, but you have to do it properly. The best way is to buy about 4 cans of the stuff (it's not that expensive, maybe 10 bucks a can). and then pour it on in thick layers.. not toooooo thick, you don't wanna waste it all, and the thicker, the less it stays on the surface you're stripping. you'll know how to apply it when you see it. then you drape a garbage bag over it, and let it sit for 3 or 4 hours. then lift the garbage bag and it just falls off with a scraper. NOW.. just a little example of how strong this stuff is. (it's been around for a while).. A friend of mine when i was in the 7th grade, asked me to remove paint from a model car he owned that he had just painted, and covered with the cardboard box that it came in. His cat jumped on the box, and dust fell onto the wet paint, so he asked me to remove it for him, and i said "sure my dad has this stuff in the garage!" so i put it into a wooden tub, and put his model car in the same product... i still recall that day every tiem i smell it. I went downstairs to see the model car in the morning... and, well... it wasnt there =/ but the paint stripper just had these white plastic swirls in it =( Poor camaro. Also, i painted the underbody of a ae86 corolla with this stuff, just near the transmission tunnel/diff cavity, and after about 50 minutes, there was a bed sheet of paint that just hung down off the metal. i poked it with a screwdriver, and it just fell onto the floor and underneath was bare metal. REALLY good stuff (but wear a mask)

hopefully venus sees this thread or gets forwarded to it, and pays their dues.