Careless

damn, such a bad time LOL rb30 just within arms reach.

here's some inspiration, OTM http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DOLPHIN-6-GOLD-MECHANICAL-STREET-ROD-GAUGE-SET_W0QQitemZ330131655355QQihZ014QQcategoryZ80739QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

hahah. it IS a knee! But i would have advertised in the auction: "look at how much ass this mirror gets" lol. oh, Ron *shakes head*

is a knee really that funny? or am i missing something here =/

well whether it seems uneccessary or not, these people are proven RB engine builders, and companies who have sought after parts, like tomei, and jun all do these mods in one form or another. so you can take your chances, but i'd rather not. its a small price to pay in order to be assured longevity.

perfect. you can imagine how easy it would be to miss one or two of those holes, or register even upto 370 degrees on one complete revolution depending on how many times it re-counts a point per complete revolution. the computer gets to the next cylinder in line and goes "61 points...? BUAH!?" or something to that effect.

it's a nissan CAS problem. the stock CAS wheel has 360 optical points along the disc. they are SO small. take the top off your CAS if you can and take a look. there's 6 varying size holes (per cylinder), and 360 other holes. with belt stretch and vibration, it's no wonder why a lot of people are having that problem at higher RPM. If they do sell it with their boxes, i'm sure they'll make an update to the cost if they're selling them for anything over 100 bucks. me... i'll go to my friend to make one.

is it a CAS wheel with less than 360 trigger points? like a divisible number of points, say 30 points or so? I think I saw someone post one in a thread here for a different application, as well as one on the SAU or Calais Turbo threads. There was big RB Engine debate on whether it was the stretching of the cam belt that made the CAS wobble and vibrate at high RPM which would cause the small trigger holes on the OEM CAS wheel to be bounced back and forth in varying degrees as the belt expanded and contracted, so some holes would be re-read by the optical sensor.

while that's true, with some good preparation for things like that, and taking into account certain tolerances to minimize wear, anyone willing to go the extra mile could do something with either of those setups mentioned, i bet. but then again, you could say that about anything in life . lol disregard this post if you've read this far.

well i dont know what all the talking about the TB42 and TB48 is, but I assumed that one would want to turbo it or build it up with custom parts, not swapping parts from engine to engine. The TB DE models have a dual overhead cam that I'm sure can be ported and polished, or even reworked extensively to get an engine with increased displacement, which is always a good thing in a performance application, no?

as long as you leave the seat brackets in place, you're fine. shitty welds are the reason a lot of people buy grinding discs and carbide burs =) make use of them

NEWS: Since the time difference is so great, we benefit from fast updates =) My engine source has a shop that has a carb'd TB42 for about 650 (not sure if it's CAD or USD, but the canadian dollar is so close right now, so it's not like it makes a big difference). That's for a long block with no transmission. as for a TB48, there are some around in local new-car junk yards near where he is, but the people working there reckon they'll go for close to 5000 before shipping, so it's more like 6200 landed. Maybe a bit less, if at all possible. This includes long block and all electronics, plus the guage cluster perhaps.

got a lead on some TB's. got a friend who's in a part of australia as of now that seems to be telling me how much he loves the partols, and sees them everywhere. he's the one i sourced my RB30 and my RB26 parts from, so he's going to check around for TB42's and 48's

can someone send me info about this? i may be interested in some parts

great stuff. how did the soldering go? often times, the copper wire crystallizes due to excessive heat (high wattage irons will do that) to the point where the connection is solid, but all too brittle, and can crack with excessive vibration if the rest of the wire is held down tight so the solder point becomes a stressed area. in most cases it's ok though, and i'm sure you know what you're doin. how many hours and what wiring diagrams did you follow to make the wiring yourself? did you use a different set of wiring schematics for a later car, or did you just follow the Z wiring? this is something I've yet to decide on. I'm debating a wiring kit with a detachable EMS portion, which I've found to be available on ebay.

1/4 inch seems a bit too thick, no?

who? what?

this should be all you need http://www.3dlens.com/shop/polarizer-200x250mm.php the best way to apply this is to sit in the car once the hud is fully working, and draw a square that covers the area that the hud projects onto, and basically draw the way you want it to look onto the inside of your windshield then, while you sit in your normal driving position; have a friend (with the protective film still on, so it doesnt scratch) stand on the outside of the car and have them rotate the film using your drawn location as a center point. have him/her spin the film until you find the point at which the most light bounces back towards your eyeline... once you find that point, ask them to stop turning the film, and by looking at your line marks on the inside of the glass through the film, the can trace the size you need onto the film while it's in the position you need it. then when it's marked, cut it and paste it on the inside. make sure you make the scribe marks on the polarizing film with the adhesive side up, as it will be in the same position when it is applied to the inside of the glass. that should do that trick for ya, buddy interestingly enough, the way i found this out was pretty weird. I had an old LCD from a printer that would always display bugged out numbers and letters, but it had a backlight. so one day i decided to peel the film away and rotate it around 180 degrees, and it started showing the digits using the backlight. I later found out that this is what a lot of people do when converting LCD's to match their tastes, and it's quite a cool trick. *GGGGGGGG IIIIIII JOEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE*

hey OTM, i'm wondering if you ever considered the ez2wire systems on ebay or the painless type systems. if so, what changed your mind? I like your setup because of the dash you're making, but it'd be hard to fit under a regular dash.

i like the tranny mount, looks the beef! but you may want to use high grade bolts in there, because taking them out if they strip could prove next to impossible. EDIT: forgot to mention that the engine mounts look f'in badass too, and very well put together. now my MIG welder makes me feel like poo

i would say that it looks like it's mounted well, but a little extra bracing would be an option better done sooner than later. great car for 150 bucks too. i'm envious to say the least

techtron = r0x!

indeed. to make it easier, what you could do is rivet it in place, and then when they welder gets to your house (find them on craigslist, and ask for pics of their work, and show them the project), then they can fasten it up for good, and you can be on your way. shouldn't take more than 2 or 3 hours to get everything ready for primer if you have the floor plates put in place nicely

im sure they'll start turning up sooner or later. Contact Tiger Japanese, they may be able to get one.

I'm getting that TB48DE engine next, that's for damn sure. when i get to that point, i'll have more money to dump into a full custom setup ofcourse, N/A again