Careless

to be honest, im glad you're not making molds. it would promote more people to undertake the project and come up with unique designs =) But i guess if its at all possible to make it easier for someone to start on a project, or just have their car the way they see it being, then yah.. but meh. =/ and i like how you're constantly going back and forth between car and computer. LOL I wish i had a slow time at work to do more stuff on the car =(

well if you type both addresses in google, it will tell you to swim across the ocean :/ true story.

hey guys... bare with me here... i know nothing about the anodization process, or very little and i have no recollection of the tolerances and limitations of the coating. would it be possible to anodize the compressor housing of a turbo that's being rebuilt? i'd imagine the coating might be a hair's thickness too much along the journal for the prop shaft, but can be linished, i bet. Has anyone seen anything like this? my friend just put a 968 engine in his 944 and wants to do something cool to it. and his car is red, so...

went through that this weekend. tried to start my car to show a friend how loud a car with an open header is cause she was like "i dunno how loud my car would be if i did that" wouldnt ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ start. tried and tried... revisited my wiring, then i found that by removing some of the wiring under the seat, i forgot to plug the fuel pump harness back in. stupid me. thing started within 2 minutes of cranking and pumping, and boy did it sure run but yah, have you made sure that the ignition circuit on the ms board was soldered properly? did u test with the stim?

i'm rather surprised it's not viewable on youtube. LOL DO IT, DO IT!

question, is having the oil picked up externally like that good on an N/A motor with the front sump adapter, or is useless, and would you change it? Im thinking I should just leave mine or something :/

ALSO, i've been told that the ACL Race Series bearings are as good as they get, and they're made by the same company as Clevite, but they have special coatings on them, same as King. But I havent heard anything about King bearings.

correct me if i'm wrong, but doesnt worn out bearings mean that the bearing cap, or possible the saddle itself is out of alignment? you might want to look into an align hone or an align bore, and then get the proper bearings to replace all of them if you really wanna button it up. shiney areas or worn spots on the bearing are indicative of a slight warpage in either top or bottom, and should be fixed, not replaced if you plan to keep the engine long. a little more money out the pocket, but for 300 dollars (thats what an align hone costs at one place here), i think it's a worthy investment. Just have some ARP Main studs ready for the align honing process. and if possible get the main bearing caps and bolt mating surfaces ground to flush as well. That will cure ANY bearing problems, even the ones from factory that were just done as good as possible with their equipment (it's funny, but some cars even come with factory undersized bearings on one or two journals to correct uneven crankshaft movement. surprising, but oh so true.) I know you'll get it solved, just bare with the time it takes, and it will be more than you hoped for, because prep is everything (theres also a healthy explination on that in another RB thread). Can you work on other areas of the block for now? such as de-burring the surface and cast flashing areas? might as well, seeing as it's apart. Let us know where you're at in the build, post any questions that you have regarding things you're unsure about with the block, or things to do while you wait. I know many ppl have a lot of experience they can lend, and i can sure use some of that knowledge too. =) Raff

i'm going to agree with you on that, but finding a kpg with an s20 that works is damn near impossible, or will cost more than an entire RB30 buildup. Brian (akwikz) can chime in here, as he's imported a number of different skylines of different generations, an has had (or still does) have the mistress, a.k.a, the KPGC10 RB. The cars are gorgeous, possibly my favourite car, but that will be somethign to look forward to after the engine is done for my Z. The good thing about the engine i'm building is that if i get tired of the Z, i can remove it and sell the shell as is, and put it in a KPGC10 when I plan to get one, If i do. but I think you should keep your Z, it's very beautiful and I think everyone here will agree with me when we say you will regret it at one point or another. It's not the end of the world, but there's little reason to justify the change-over.

well i guess i answered most of your questions then. LOL heck if i blow mine up, i may require some RB30's so if you can match the price!!!!!

i'm going to assume that they work with any of transmissions that come on the engines/cars listed in the charts. some could probably work on a stateside cars, like the R32 GTS fitting in the Z32 5spd.

any more info or snags that you think i might come up against?

i know someone with two right now. and i've got one from him. i paid 800 for the shortblock that is really clean, no sohc head, and has a lot of the ancilliary belt driven parts and accessories in a box to go with them. he has two more that are in somewhat same condition. one is 400 dollars and has been in a front end collision, so the damper is cracked (prolly means the crank is pooched too, and maybe has endplay you could toss a football between), but you never know, could have just been the crankpulley that got snubbed. and then there is the 500 dollar one which i was going to buy, but the tooth fairy left more money for me this time, so i went with the 800 dollar one instead for some insurance. the 500 dollar one definately needs a 40 over and a honing. but i'm doing that to my 800 dollar one anyways. i can give u contact info, and you can discuss other possible options regarding his RB30's. very cool guy.

if only i had the money to start something like that. any donations?

well I have the entire S14 front clip. LOL. frames and all. I literally took a used front clip and cut it down the middle. I was getting it to acquire the front crossmember, then i said, "what the hell" and took the rest of the clip with it. Since I do metal scrap, if i cant use it, i'll scrap it. But seeing as I want to go full s14 front suspension, and my rails are otherwise non-existant, and the rails on this piece are solid, i'll just make it work as best I can =). If i get the suspension parts for the front (i can use 4 lug setup for mocking up the angles and whatnot) I think it would be worlds easier, as the front clip comes with everything I need except the rad support, but I wont be requiring that because I don't want to mount an S14 front end on the Z (which might actually be pretty cool if it's the s14 kouki, but naaaah) I Figure using some MDF to get some cross-wise templates made to make sure the rails square up would be my best bet. Some precision cuts and some hard glue'd edges to keep everything square while tack welding would be a good idea, I think. I plan to keep all the stock mounting points for all the current body panels, and screwing things into place before doing final welds. I've been looking for a good book on suspension principles, but can't find any local ones. Are there any on Amazon? Thanks for the input. EDIT: Also, the increased width/track of the front of the S14 will be desirable on my end, seeing as I want to run custom Spirit-Garage style flares. Granted, I'd much rather run wider wheels to acquire that extra track width, but I'll go with some wheels that have as much backspace as possible without obviously hitting the strut assembly/upperframe rails.

will you be building the engine yourself? that's my main question.

for 89, though!

if u have them lying around, try it. no sense in keeping them lying around. maybe u can get a fan controller to hook up to the dash board too, like a zalman or something. LOL

so today I acquired all the bits between the frame rails of a JDM S14, as well as the front clip itself. I'll be removing the surrounding unibody parts from the frame rails and using the front strut towers to recreate the suspension at the front of my car, hopefully keeping the strut towers in the same location. I would have to cut the stock strut tower locations out and weld the s14 ones in the same place hopefully. I don't think this would be a problem with an N/A RB30, as the engine isnt that wide, but with a turbo system, I can foresee it being a problem. Then again this is my first full on project car and I intend to make the most of my skill and see where I can improve on my fabrication and engineering skills... and if I get it working, I may just get into college doing this stuff because graphic design isn't keeping me all that interested as I thought it would due to my peers having clients that don't like freedom. I'm doing this to undertake something that I don't think anyone has done before, and so that my front suspension may match my rear suspension as well. Also, it will allow me to run the full 5 lug (i know, there are hubs for the 280z alread) as well as the power steering doohickeys from the s14 front end. I know everyone is gonna come up with posts saying "why bother" or "there's no need"... but how many ppl need a 500 hp zee for the street anyways? my car wont make more than 400 to boot, and i think it will be fun trying to get it to work =) project car, right? so who's wif me! questions/comments/advice (other than the wholey negative)

I'm building my own RB30 N/A motor, and I'm going to just build it to the best of my ability, with a lot of research. I know it's gonna cost me a bit, but I've never failed at anything I've worked hard at, and I'm sure you won't either if you're ready to realize the risks of your enjoyment! Go Git'em! Having said that, you don't need the best of the best if you're building it yourself, you're better off planning and prepping it before spending money on the best parts. I find no need to go with the top-quality company unless you're absolutely sure that you're gonna keep this thing for life. Otherwise, other quality parts will survive or outlast your ownership of the car. For example... I'll be getting SPOOL Rods for my RB30. They look the part, seem like they could make an atomic bomb quiver at the sight of it's size, but.... who the hell is spool? I'm not going to spend 3000 canadian on a set of custom rods from Pauter because they dont make RB26 rods for less than 2500 anyways. That money there is enough for me to buy Pistons, Rings, Wrist Pins, Locks, and the Rods with the ARP2000 End Cap nuts. And that will surely be able to handle the work i will put this engine through... so WHY spend 3000 on a set of rods if you're not gonna go balls out with the car itself. I TOO have the "best of the best" syndrome for many things. but cars are expensive... keep it reasonable, and you'll be more happy with your outcome, rather than spending obscene amounts of money in certain places, which puts a stop to most of your other work that the money could go towards.

That quote is SOOOOOO first day of last month.

haahha, another reason why a nice Z touches on all the senses matches rock too

true, but it goes to show that if u hold out for a while good things usually spring up.

lawlz!

beautiful. can't wait to see it. =)