Careless

If i were to do that, I'd probably run the side that exits the intercooler and enters the intake using metal. i think it will help cool the charge a little more. since the side coming from the compressor is in a hot zone, It probably wouldn't benefit much from going metal on that side. not sure if that would help anything, though.

am i reading this right? *grabs can of coca cola*

they make them 77's for RB's ?!

pffffffft.. cold? we're supposed to get 10 inches of white stuff today

you forgot "profit" which is probably marginal with these kits. and even if they're a big profit, i'm sure it's reflective of the patience and quality built into the refinishing of the product.

u coming back wif another zee anytime soon?!

Hey Brian, thanks for the offer, I'll let you know in the following month or so on what I will be doing. I'm planning to get some parts so that when he weather gets fun, I can do some work on the car as much as possible. can you let us know what has been done to the wolf3D to get it to work on the RB30 build? will it work with an R32 head? let us know what's involved in getting this to work, this thread could be useful to others too. while we're discussing RB30's, I'd like to know how the RB31DE that you have is fairing... hows the response of the engine compared to other 3 litre N/A engines and such. any pointers you can give on the engine dynamics itself, versus the regular turbo engines would be ideal. I'd be hard pressed to squeeze 300 flywheel horsepower out of this thing, without dropping an additional 5 to 10 grand on the engine once it's been converted to a Dually cam, right? the general consensus amongst user on some calais boards is that for 10 grand of upgrades, done by a shop who is pretty comfortable with RB30's, you'd get around 260 hp.. I dunno if that's right. I mean... 3.0 litres out of an inline 6 should give you mad torque and with the higher flowing head than the L28, i'd assume that an L30 would be about 10 - 20% less powerful than a similarily built RB30/31DE. im looking to go with a high compression. 10.5 or 11:1. higher if i decide this car is going to be babied and rarely driven. we'll see how it goes. anything you can warn me about or anyone else, before someone attempts a project like this would be helpful. or else I'm just gonna have to do that myself (which i was going to do anyways) and document it and host it on my upcoming website. =)

I'm going to the autoshow this wednesday, so i'll have more to contribute once i'm back here with the negs and the scans YAAAAAAAAAY

thanks Q i didn't get your message cause i wasn't in, but i'd imagine this is what it was going to be about. what problems did you run into with the Wolf3D system? isn't the v500 compatible with all RB sensors and gadgetry?, there is a plugnplay kit on the wolf website

thanks for the tips, and the offer. but this engine is getting pulled. RB30 going in. i just like to listen to it sometimes

I'd just wire it as the FSM says. if it's only two wires, that shouldn't be that hard. where did they break?

makes me feel so much better now mine has a tweco gun on it. I think im gonna get a new swan neck and nozzle/tip/diffusers for when i start. =)

hi again. im trying to decide what i want to do here. I have an RB30 block on the rise... it's in the middle of price discussion and additional required parts. but it will be here come april for sure, possibly sooner. now, I want to make this an N/A RB30, with ITB's, perhaps even a 26 head instead of a 25. I'd go for some high comp pistons, and later down the line, i'd order some nice beefy rods. But that's probably when i change over to turbo when I'm not happy. or even for a future project down the line. so now, my questions is. lets say I have ITB's. with Vstacks on them. with any of the EMS systems, do I have to run a static map without any dynamic enrichment functionality for temperature fluctuations for intake air? or is it possible and somewhat reliable to run like 3 intake air temp sensors, one for every 2 cylinders, and use a averaging circuit before the EMS so that it reads evenly across the board? is there any other way of making this happen with an open plenum, rather than a closed one. some say use lexan or plexi to make a little box, But the reason for doing this is actually by design, as well as function. I'm gong to be cutting a slot in the side of the hood bump so that vstack rims JUUUUUUUUUUUUUUST peek through the hood. I'd like to keep comments about my decision regarding the look at a minimum. If you want me to explain, i'll do it in short: I do car photography here and there. One thing that intrigues me is attn to detail, and I want this detail, and to have it work nicely is a bonus. again, hear me out. I'm not asking for opinions on why i should do this... im only asking for opinions on how i could get something of this detail or look to work. without going carb, that is. all help regarding the using dynamically adjustable maps and such through use of sensors is what im looking for here. I'm sure theres a way around it, without having to run static maps and testing for air temp with an external gadget, and adjusting a manual enrichment before going out for a drive. that would work, but it would suck ballz. also, how does one solve air flow or manifold pressure for a setup like this with an open air config, verses a closed plenum.

i guess your common sensor needs replacing, then!

those afco shocks look like a cool setup. and they are cheaper than some coil over kits. but im wondering how they fair compared to a coilover kit for spirited driving, rather than drag racing.

truly awesome achievement! heres to 7 more!

love it. one thing i don't particularily like is the blue text on the valve cover, i think it should have been the other way around. but tis sweet!

i guess im not an emperor, or elite by any sense of the word, but I'd imagine that getting cans that all have the exact same pigment might end up being a bit difficult.

Lexan Lexan Lexan! with the rhino on the backing paper!

:lmao::lmao:

yeah i see the z shift-gate plates looking more like asterix than any kind of straight-edge'd H pattern.

im starting to get ideas here. LOL what process did you go through to get it evenly coated? was it bead blasted and polished at all for a smoother surface?

quoted for truth. REPOST!!!

you can always place a small wedge shaped washer made out of a small plastic dowel. it would look nice if you did it cleanly, and it should be hard enough plastic that you can tighten it down so that it doesnt vibrate. i would even look at gluing some small rubber rings on the back to help vibration resistance even more. gluing them on the back makes them easier to align bolts through and such.

im wondering what people have done to their strut towers, and what mounts they've used in order for the 240sx shocks to bolt in.