Careless

call them up and ask. easiest way to do it

I'd like to point out that there is not nearly enough lubrication on those cams for initial startup to be on the safe side. not saying it's going to cause an issue, but I would use a thick assembly lube instead of a regular oil. video is cool though!

Has anyone seen these guys? http://www.supertechperformance.com/ They make valve train parts for the RB26. Dual coil spring setups. SS valves with nitride coatings. I'm still kinda leaning towards Ti valves with Bery ring copper seats, but I'm not sure... I want the best in valve train lightness.

I replaced the power circuit (there are steps to testing it on the ms website), and the MS started right up after that. You could have friend the cpu, but even then it's not a bad idea to have a spare laying around.

lol. we think along the same lines with the tubes/thread guides. the only problem I see with your setup if using that would be the base where the nuts go into. see how it's quite shapely? I think you'd need to machine some flats on the bottom.

Those injector holders are beautifully done. Nice touch, and I quite like the seperate rail feeds. How does this affect injector or regulator pulsing and dampening? Have you considered brass sleeves to contain the bolt threads? Perhaps a valve guide with the tapered side cut off, so that the bolt can slip into it and polish them up real nice... it will match the compression fitting you have there. I'd also go so far as to suggest rubber grommets at the top and bottom of the brass/bronze thread guides to avoid over-tightening and adding torsion to injectors under load/expansion as TonyD mentioned. and having them blanked so that they can be drilled and tapped at various angles is a nice touch . I'd seriously consider a set of these over a fuel rail. Makes changing one injector so much easier! I'm curious to see the fuel reg or balance canister setup.

Someone also posted at some point in time (I'm not gonna dig the thread up!), that after welding shut those holes, it became noticeably hard to close the doors, or it would require a bit more force, as there was no place for air to go upon closing them. I'm not sure how much truth there is to that post, as I'm sure in a 30 year old car, a grommet or two is going to find itself to pieces and be enough to let air out. But judging by the size of the air vents I'd say it's highly possible that it could not be a large enough escape for cabin air if the vents were welded and a failing grommet you've never seen are the only things you're relying on to relieve cabin pressure.

here it is. it seems like this company has the same shift lights, and now it has a launch control interface. and I might be buying their boost controller for my 87T. http://www.gizzmoelectronics.com/Product_LaunchInterface.html

if your friend has a catalytic converter, it may be blocking the fuel from igniting in the tail pipe enough to cause a flame to fire out. there was a company that had the launch control feature for s13's. damnit, i need to find it. it should work on RB25's

read the first couple of posts. there was a mishap with the specs of the first pistons, and wiseco sent a second set of pistons that were also not correct. by the time Stealth-Z had found someone to machine the motor, the pistons would have most likely been out of the return-policy range. thus, finding the correct specs and milling the pistons down is the solution he decided to go with in order to maintain accurate and close quench distance.

The factory ecu does not have launch control, though. you would need to look around on http://eccs.hybridka.com/index.php to see if someone can find a BIN that came with VSS Launch Control and integrate it into the standard ECU for you.

Doooooooo It. Dooooooooo It

I'm not sure, but I read somewhere that all blue nissan relays are the same internally, as they are "generic nissan"... I read that in the Z31 fuel pump mod document that I have some where. But, you'll have to wait till I'm at my own house to run a part number for you (and I don't even have the internet there!)

if you can take the pedal out completely and put a penny under it, you can weld the hole semi-shut, and build a nice flat weld from once side without worrying too much, and then grind down the high side. saves some work...

If I write a comparison it's going to be 9.5/264 easy cams vs 11/300 tomei spec c's LOL

check your input shaft spigot and pilot bushing for abnormal wear while you're at it if you havent!

matching up the wiring will work and run the car, but not to higher horsepower levels or even with a stable idle. It may lurch or limp-mode instantly. give it a shot, can't hurt if you're good with wires.

Larry @ Engine Dynamics tipped me off, and made note about the ramp-rate on the Tomei's being more linear and less peaky than the other cam manufacturers. This reduces valvetrain wear, and for the .05 of lift and 4 degrees of duration sacrifice, some see the Tomei name as a worthy sacrifice in the name of "quality/R&D". I believe I have a set of easy cams in 264 trim from japan on their way soon. so we'll see what they look like.

I guess we could even do RB30.6DE or RB30.5DE However, either way... I agree it's a better nomenclature than "RB30 with RB26DETT Head"

LESSON LEARNED check threads for left over thread locker. By chance, the two bolt holes that I threaded into just to test were packed with old threadlocker. I took an old bolt and cut slits into it and threaded it back and forth with a power-screwdriver (low power @ 4v), and worked it in and out with some brake clean (whipe your main seal thoroughly if your brake clean is chlorinated). The bolts then completely threaded through. There was so much thread locker coming out that it felt like the bolts bottomed out, but they didnt. The flywheel is not balanced but I don't have the time to do that now, seeing as everyone around my hood doesn't balance stuff like this or tell me it's "not worth it", which is basically "nah, i dont wanna touch your shiney flywheel". I can't send it out, it will take too long. I'll cross my fingers that fidanza is under 8-10 grams imbalance. As for the bolts, the stockers were fine. Torqued them to 80 ftlbs with some red loctite. The small pack of green loctite gel that was supplied was definately not sufficient enough for even one bolt. they were probably for the dowel pins. Go figure! Man I feel like an idiot. I could have had the car running! V33 bolts are roughly 17mm VG30ET Z31 bolts are roughly 24mm VG30DETT Z32 bolts are rouhgly 27mm All are measured as UHL (under head length) Thanks for keeping me company in the thread, 260DET

Summuna Onion! the VG33 bolts were waaay too short. I brought my flywheel with me to the dealership. The ordered two of the wrong bolts anyways, of which were the ones I currently have that are too long. the VG33 bolts only get about 3 threads out the back of the flywheel. Is it possible that the two VG30ET Turbo trans models came with different flywheel bosses? 240 vs. 250mm clutch packs = different flywheel bolt lengths??

ARP carries pressure plate bolts in their "pro" series that are a UHL of just over 20mm, somewhere in between 20 and 21mm shank + thread. they are 10 x 1.0 fine thread. I'll be getting the VG33 bolts tonight, and they seem like they would work. if there is a thread or 2 less of engagement than the standard bolts, I will not be concerned. I'll friggen JB WELD Those bolts in there if it gotta!!!! LOL (just kidding)

anyone know which flywheel bolts to use? I can't find the ARP number as I don't have the internet at home and can't do a thorough search. I measured the stock VG30ET bolts at 24mm, and the VG33 bolts at 17mm (parts guy measured the ones in stock). I think I need them somewhere between 17 and 19 mm anyways, so I ordered the VG33 ones. I hope they's ok. 47 Bucks

You guys must be pickin' numbers out of a hat! I'm 24 as of yesterday! I don't have the internet at home right now thought Thanks guys

sure. pop off the steering shaft, find out something else breaks. another set back. yada yada yada. I dunno if you noticed, or read anything, but the turbo came out and went back in more than enough times in one night once I figured it out. I was just frustrated because I paid someone to rebuild it and they did not re-clock it properly. sooooo laugh all you want. but I was just afraid I was going to have to take the head off again. You don't live in a climate controlled by salt like we do. I reassemble everything with anti-seize. EVERYTHING that is not assembled with another lubricant or thread compound. When I say something won't come off, it's because I've either been half way through breaking it off, or it just wont come off. You're being quite condescending to assume that I don't know how to remove a fastener. You know... I kinda DID take this engine apart and put it back together, so I don't know what part of this post you didn't read to realize that. If that's your preference, than so be it. I want a reliable good looking, clean daily driver. I will spend the "holy ♥♥♥♥" money on my other motor. Had I wanted to spend money on this rebuild, I would have got a larger turbo, injectors, put my wolf v500 in, and ran a big FMIC too. But you don't seem to get budgeting and "keeping it real". Did I mention it's not even my garage that I've been overtaking? please read my thread thoroughly before judging what's been done. Everything has been done for a reason... some of which I had no choice nor any willingness to do, but had to.