Careless

That doesn't sound right. correct me if i'm wrong, but upon firing that one cylinder, there is still the same amount of fuel in there, you're just preserving your injector's life cycle by having the electromagnetic element only open once per cycle rather than twice (as you said, squirting on a closed valve). Also, you'd probably see a gain from having less wash on the ports/valve because they are filled when open, and not when closed. But at that speed, it only makes a difference when air is moving slower (ie. idle), and at high speed, the velocity of the incoming air would just force all the fuel into the chamber. Unless of course, you're saying that the closed-valve firing instance is wasted fuel. if that's the case, then yes, you'd be wasting 50% of your fuel injector pulses. But that fuel has to go somewhere. I can see batch firing at a low speed for a long duration creating issues when stabbing the throttle abruptly, but after that 2 or 3 second pull, there wouldn't be any residual fuel in the ports if they are designed to flow completely and not have any dead spots where fuel can puddle, even at high velocity (air can create a thin and powerful barrier to hold things up, rather than move them in) EDIT: goin through my notes, and looking at what I said earlier about the electromagnetic element being used less frequently, there are other points I should add. Low-impedance injectors firing twice per engine cycle will end up killing your injector drivers, as some are not made to cope with that high of a current over and over again so quickly. you get better control in higher RPM's too, since @ say... 8000 rpm, having an injector open and close twice in the same time that sequential system would only tell it to do once... you are increasing the injector duty quite a bit, arent you? Again, I'm not sure, just seems that way. noq i'm not sure if my first paragraph makes sense. where does all the extra fuel from the first trigger go if not in the cylinder, where it would have to be just the right amount to maintain a stoich AFR rather than an excessively rich one? The reason I ask is due to the fact that nissan had an injector campaign for the Z31's that changed the harness from sequential to batch fire mode. How does a standard ECU properly regulate fuel changes without being altered and without being told it is now triggering twice as much fuel per engine cycle? its all a mystery, folks! VOODOO I TELL YOU, JAPANAYZE VEWDEW!

sweet! i got an s14 front and rear subframe, so if you can get this workin' imma start takin notes! :D:D:D

I would have tried to order one from Nissan for a 240sx or something. they would get it in one day.

i read this as i was going to post: Title: Life... Content: ... and what to do with it. questions, comments, answers?

you're not screwed, wires are just wires. take a breathe and whip out an FSM and ignore colours if you have to. good job, hope to hear some good news.

those are either SSR Professors or Work Meister S1 2 or 3 Piece.

no harm in trying.

send racinjitter and scottyM1z some emails, they are usually a little busy! EDIT: I mean, they are usually upto stuff when they're not online!

tell me my track don't got teeth!

Ralph, Don't be swayed by things like the oil gallery orifices. They can be replicated using a mig welder tip and some sandpaper. All you have to do is sand the outside so that it's roughly 6.12mm and carefully drive them into the deck. They won't go anywhere, and you can get them in many sizes. I, personally, have read that it's not a big issues, and that the only reason it's done is dude to the fact that the sump is poorly designed and trapping oil in the head is a bad thing if the sump isn't good at keeping oil where it is supposed to be (near the pickup!) I would stick with a 1.5 or 1.25 mm hole tip. Tomei's are around there anyway. 1mm seems too small to me, so I'm going to run a 1.5. Contact Racer98 or look up his name and a thread will come up where he sells stuff. heres the price of a complete RB20: http://www.tigerjapanese.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=150&category_id=8&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=26 atleast this way you can talk to jerryb and see what eneds to be done to drop it in ASAP and get it running to find out whether or not the engine is in good lick. once it is, you can do what you want with it, but I'd just enjoy it =).

its the 71C. not sure of the case design though. They are a little different from SR/KA to RB/CA. what is it that you're particularily interested in finding out, perhaps something I can find out using the FAST system. the L20ET and the RB20ET both made somewhere around 150hp. Later versions of the RB20 were all DE or DET - making about 10 / 60 hp more, respectively. I would guess that the E and ET versions shared the same transmission as the L20ET's. But the DE's of the later years most likely had the 71C, and not the A or B or whatever the others had. Also, it could be possible that the later RB20 engines that came in the 200zr were equipped with the FS5R90A (BW-T5), but I'd have to check FAST for that.

ok so it can shift around? im talking about putting some JB weld onto a check plug and putting that onto the transmission fill/check hole. i dont wanna shove a moo magnet in my transmission.

love the setup =)

from what i understand, the N1 block is most likely a cleaner or purer casting than a regular cast iron block, and it definitely has more internal webbing or thicker main skirts. Andy (Boozt3d) has proved that the standard block and head can handle 680rwhp. probably not for long, but... what are your goals? N1 block = $1500 private sale (not from nissan!) R33 Crank = $300 - $500 Bearings = $150 - 350 Rod and Piston combo = $1200 - 2400 Engine head = $800 - 1200 Valvetrain + cams/gears = $2000 - 3000 Sensors = $600 - 1000 oil + water pump = $450 - 1800 intake? exhaust? turbo? if you buy an N1 block, you'll need an RB26 to make it usable for you anyway. The price of the engine is less than the sum of all it's parts. BTW, the ecu and running gear has not included in that either. alternator? ps pump? A/C if u want?

check out gord @ gord bush racing http://gordbushperformance.com/about.htm or cesar @ mississauga engines: http://www.mississaugaengines.net/ Also, how did you acquire sponsors with such a budget. I'd like to get someone to sponsor my build

heck with the money you save, you can inspect the bearings, see if they need replacing, and then just pop a new standard oil and water pump on there too with a new thermostat and new front and rear main seals. YOU WILL save money by getting it complete. if your friend wants to sell you the block for less, buy it for less and then build that up. when you have some down time, take that block, fitted with pistons and rods, and toss evreything from the old block onto that one, and get the some taller/longer dur. cams, and up the boost a bit.

as for the transmission. you need the bellhousing from the manual RB20, and you might need to modify your driveshaft (will have to most likely due to different engine anyway). the SR20, CA18, KA24, and RB20 all use the FS5W71C. Someone on here has taken one to about 400+ hp with quite good reliability in an RB25 powered car. Getting an RB20 head might be a chore. To be fair, I would buy an RB20DET engine set (IT WILL SAVE YO MONEY IN THE END). It will cost anywhere from 900 to 1200. Don't buy your friend's engine after it's been taken apart. Just get one complete and then take the head off, have the head inspected for warping, change the timing belt and tensioners, change the headgasket, look at the pistons, and get new headstuds and put it back together. this way you get a transmission with it too, and everything you need to get it running. A shortblock means no head. if you're getting a head with your shortblock, it's a long block. You still need coils, ecu, harness, injectors, rail, expensive sensors, intake manifold, etc.etc.etc. save yourself the time and get a complete engine, from one fellow ralphy to another =)

'The hell!? there's another Ralphy in the RB forums? THERE CAN ONLY BE ONE!111!!!shift+one!!!one-hundred-onety-one!!!!!1!

hmmm... nice idea matt. http://www.strickequipment.com/catalog/goldenrod%20filters.htm

DAMN, JBWELD! i should have known I'm going to order another fill plug and jb weld my strontium mag to it. sank-yew, TonayDee!

good update mark. I am in to researching the chemical coatings as well for the piston sides and whatnot. Only problem is I have not found a suitable person in my hood to do it, and I would not trust any regular person to do it. most often it requires scuffing/blasting of the piston skirts, and then coating and baking the pistons at precise temps. powder coating, really. I also know that if you choose to use a coating of somesort, you will have to rebore your block if it's required by the coating.

all that and a fram filter :-/ why not a stainless cartridge tru-filter with a magnafilter attached to it or something? awesome setup though. do you think temps will increase greatly due to radiator blockage?

not a bad idea

That's the vid that made me want to do my modern version of a z car with an engine like that =) it sounds amazing throughout, but it REALLY sounds mean when he hammers it at the end going left passed after the stop light. That's when it goes!

generally people use smaller exhaust housings to have turbocharges flick on like a light switch, and larger ones to make the transition to positive boost pressure a lot smoother. this has to do in part with the energy required to move the turbine wheel. if your exhaust flow/volume is not enough to continue to spin the turbo higher and higher, you will never reach the turbo's efficiency range at which it operates best on your application, and the accompanying compressor housing will be too large to build a strong boost level. adding to that, if you have it too small you will run passed the efficiency range to a point where the turbo setup falls off it's target along the compressor map, and the inverse of what happens on the previously mentioned setup happens to be what kills compressor wheels and housings when the units are too small. Too much pressure too fast, and they go boom. As a side note, the guys with the R33 skyline @ Exvitermini.com had a quote published in an article stating that they had no set waste-gate release pressure, as they ran no waste gates and just let the turbos do what they could do. This could be a case of over sizing the exhaust housing units just one step up from what they had calculated as ideal, so that they have room for more power on a cool day when everything is running better than usual.