Careless

try the next 2... Windows 7 will be released in 2010.

find out what the piston ring part number is for what you need, and find the interchange number here: http://mahleclevite.com/publications/IL-PR-06.pdf

anyone know em? they're made MAHLE. enough said.

Is it me or is HybridZ the only forum that likes to get this technical with these designations? I mean, every other forum is like "the early" vs. "the later" and "the middle" and the "early middle", and "super late middle early" castings, or my favourite RB block is the super obscure "when line-worker 39 was out for a herniated disc injury , circa mid-1996" blocks. like wtf. HybridZ r0x! I'm sure this will lend to some important details that will be looked upon a couple of years from now because up until now I have not yet seen blocks and heads designated as such. I'm not yet sure why, but the statement is still true. Anyway, I can make a list of every single one, possibly even N1 and Z2 versions if I have time after my trans tear down this weekend.

514 for a stage 2. yikes which stage are you running, Scott?

Just thought of this... you could probably get away with glass-chip resin. it's UV-Cured, and hard as ever. I wish I could get the stupid nissan vintage cd working on the FAST system, i would be able to look for sealants. Im going to check the RB26 throttle plates to see what I can find. EDIT: Trying to help out with some alternatives here: http://www.ellsworth.com/display/productdetail.html?productid=1134&Tab=Products http://news.thomasnet.com/fullstory/465265 The 3M one looks to be promising.

if you had to guess, what comes closest? we could narrow it down that way. is it a resin? an aluminum like substance similar to an anti-seize compound that dries thin? a solder of some sort? I bet there are resins that are impervious to gasoline and hot air charges that could be used, and would fill those gaps just as well.

hahahaha

Z-ya. I support your comments towards the shift into a new OS and how microsoft goes about their ways. However, the problem you are experiencing has not to do with the complexity of the use of a program you were once accustomed to, it has to do with the use of a program that has changed considerably to make it easier for newer users to use the features you consistently used, all while making it easier to access. Whether you know where the features are or not is based solely on the fact that you may be accustomed to the "harder" way of doing things, and the newer and easier way is, to you, only newer... and not easier due to relearning. It's where research comes in. Soon enough you'll be using the feature in it's new method and won't realize how easy something has become. I work on Macs 8 hours a day, have WinXP and MacOSX on my AMD computer at home, and have Vista on my room mates laptop. To be honest, I like them all, and I hate them all. Developing websites is much the same. I'm not sure how far phpBB has come since it's inception, but I remember using the beta version from the get-go, and things have come a long way. Editing core files is not user friendly at all. Now I'd imagine there is an install script of some sort. I just wish I worked for these companies sometimes, because I'm sure they people developing don't use them in the same way. What would be awesome for either of these companies to do is rather than allow workspaces per program, the should allow workspaces per user, and allow the OS to shape shift into the required functions of a given profession, all while allowing program exceptions to circumvent combatting issues with the chosen workspace. To me, the user control panel currently does not do this as well as I think it should. And Tony D, I've been rockin the ebay boards too but canada has slim pickin's lately

This might make sense... how about referring to stock parts as the number designation that they were pulled from. Like P90a and E88, and N42. I'm surprised we never refer to things like this, it's obvious they are the casting blocks used at the time of production. Differences in the numbers may tell the same stories as those for L28's.

full-race, but it costs more than 10 times as much

NP!!! Have you checked the links I posted? You can probably get a good Exedy unit from them with or without flywheel (wouldn't put money on the F1 Spec though, 2 people I know had excessive disc wear and one of the same ones had a spring hub rivet failure.... which I think is the issue with my clutch right now) Also, Just as a note of how long this takes on this car, I've managed to jack up the car half-way to where I will when I have to pull the trans completely. I've removed everything but the transmission, and by myself it's taken roughly 4 hours or so. That includes cutting welds that someone put on the heat-shield that blocks access to the Driveshaft. Also, I've been told that using a long extension bar to remove the upper transmission bolts if you have really high jacks is the best way. I shopped around and found a 12, 15, 24, and 32 inch extension SET (4) at princess auto labelled at 24.99. At the register it was 12.88 for all 4 of them. Beats the 15 a piece for the single 12's that I was going to buy at Canadian Tire.! Now I can gun the bolts off, and slide that sucker off. I'll post my findings when I'm done. I'm not even sure what the problem is yet.

Those clever bastards

sorry man. swap is ruined. you gotta crack the engine open and put some forged pistons and rods now. BTW i've been wanting to do a pinstripe/hood line separation like your car. you have the nicest duo-tone that i've seen on a z propppz

I'm leaning toward a 240mm assembly with the fidanza flywheel. getting all these parts will cost too much for shipping and whatnot. Since I might get the 240mm, i could let you know how it will go because your engine uses the 240mm from the get-go, it's a pre-87 model.

and remove everything from the /cache/ folder manually on the FTP. and when refreshing to check for changes while doing this... hold shift while clicking the button. it clears your own cache.

Check your links to the following files: Check your themes folder to make sure that the permissions are set correctly. They should be 644 for something like that, but perhaps 755 for editability from within the GUI for phpBB.

I'm surprised too, you may have N1 or R33 turbos (is it an R33 engine?!)

Yes, I've seen the Pure Power and the Tru-Filter. 300 bucks, but I think it's worth it... I would just clean it every weekend and top off the oil with 1/3 of a quart or something. Better to clean it when you have 10 minutes than to clean it every 3000 to 5000 miles. It's not like L6's are hard to get the filter off of anyway.

I found this circuit driver. it contains "light" and "stop" which i would assume are low and high output. Anyone try a similar driver?

I think the burgundy/purple you picked would look very nice too.

The only issue I see with what's been posted is that there are 4 zee's on the coil cover, and not 6. either make it one, or 6 And I'm glad you're here!

i can check my RB30 block. Doubt part numbers will be attainable though, as they are most likely referenced to RB25 blocks anyways, so using the RB30 digit code may not yield anything.

jakeoster. it might pay to purchase some arp rod bolts. I would remove the oil pan and push the rods down into the bore as much as you can gently go (because you will rest it on the valves). Check your crank end play and roundness if possible. That has to have been some front end damage by the looks of it. Either that or the dropped the snout on a cinder block or something that they were using to hold it up. You should change the rod bolts anyways. They're weak.

kits are cheaper and I wouldn't have to pay double shipping and double customs. Most retailers here sell the flywheel and clutch kit for 300+ a piece. If I can buy the Flywheel and Clutch kit combo + 45 shipping and probably 45 customs. I shave 200 bucks off the final price.