Careless

yea i would post the piston too but it's not on their site, so i don't feel good about doin it

In the case of the RB the reason why the quench pads are a hindrance is probably due to the sharp edge creating a heat pocket that could potentially start to form an ember and pre-ignite the mixture, and apparently it does little for swirl and shrouds the valves so much that it not only creates a flow issue, but i think the sharp angle that the air comes into the chamber at can also negate the effects of a high velocity port design when in boost, due to pressurized air being forced against a wall right near the intake valve. If you look at the Roller Wave pistons for RB's that endyn has made, you will see that they look like a baseball was welded to the top of the piston. You could probably get a compression ratio that is similar to theirs, but the sharp angles used to create the much higher dome on the pistons manufactured by other piston producers still does not interfere with the valves but would require higher octane gas because they also become a heated thin and sharp edge of aluminum, thereby creating a heat pocket that can also expand at a higher rate than the rest of the piston causing not only detonation, but material breakdown over time. expansion in the middle of the piston would probably cause the pin to warp or gall, or it would expand the crown to the point where the ring lands get very weak. I'm trying my best to figure out how I'm going to avoid this in my setup without losing 11.25:1 compression ratio.

im going to agree with havoc. i wouldn't use "engine weight" as a comparison between other cars, cause when it comes down to it, it's what the engine is going into that really matters most when deciding on parts based on weight. That's like taking a Hayabusa engine and saying its horsepower to weight ratio is infinitely better than the LS1 or the F2XC engines... put that engine in a Z and watch it be as fast as a factory L28E...... probably 3/4 of the torque too.

the long and short of carb is that your carb has a splitter to cut the air, leaving a small space of nothingness-- vacuum is created. spray fuel into the vacuum and, given the right amount of time, it will mix with the air-stream that it is being pulled into. too much fuel will flood the void and cause it to over saturate the runners. EFI is definately more simple, yet more complex at the same time.

man that exhaust just squeezed by that steering shackle. can't wait to hear this thing with that purrdy exhaust. =)

lololol

Kroil is indeed one of the best I've used too, Evan. I didn't have any around and I only had just enough to squeek by at the register with Liquid Wrench Super Lubricant with Cerflon, actually. So it wasn't WD40, my mistake. However, the Fluid Film is not a penetrating lubricant. It's just a lubricant used to protect surfaces from the elements and it's a pretty good sealer. It's moderately easy to whipe off completely, and it takes little effort to apply well enough to protect. It's also thick enough to be used upside down, and it can actually be used as an autobody Undercoating if you really want to. It doesn't harm paint either. Problem is, it's a tad brown. If it was clear I would spray it everywhere. Raff

same here. same car, same year, same engine. the first time i started it i was so happy that I didn't notice it was just pegged at 3000 for a minute and a half at 10:30 at night with no exhaust. later in the next day I got WD40, sprayed that on and let it penetrate. Then I sprayed off the WD40 after it did it's work for about 5 hours, and sprayed some FLUID FILM (in my opinion, one of the best lubricants and rust-inhibitors that can be removed easily because it's made of wax). Now it's free moving and snaps back almost instantly, save for the weak pedal spring.

lol. water getting in the flywheel inspection hole?

so you're idea is to go through the jy and cut out blown air bags? hmmmm... you may be onto something here. cut it into strips and stuff. but the knit is pretty tight on it, though. Wouldn't that cause a problem with bonding? oh, and if you want fibreglass for cheap, go to an aircraft shop or someone that specializes in that field for making wheel casings and whatnot. apparently the grade is better, and I know I got about 10 yard lengths of it for 10 bucks, uncut, with some stranded glass tossed in cause it was the end of the roll. =)

many of us can use that excuse over and over for everything and get away with it. LOL. hope it works out get some video!

that sucks that it didn't show up. especially when the car looks like it's been planned well and was probably done to look a certain way with certain parts. Painting the CF is an option but then it loses its value, I guess. I figured since the wheels were sticking out it would cause a collision issue when the suspension was loaded. Now I'm wondering why there isn't a wide-body on this beast's butt. yeah, did you hit the 1000 or 1200 hp on c-16 with the new snail?

is that available in another format, because i'd love to watch it, but real player is piss.

200ZR pan. I got one of those already. Infact, that's one of the only things I didn't take pics of Mostly because I might not use it (it might be for sale, then!) and because I think I might have to use the RB25 pan, which is a better starting point anyway, especially with S14 front crossmember. you're...... you're removing the green from the engine bay? NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO. paint the RB green!

what's with the bumper mismatch and the funky offset for the back wheels.

still a pretty good indication of what's what here. which is great NICE! so this is just a regular z31 cas wheel?

Dare I ask if this OBX LSD will fit in my Z31 3.54 diff housing, now that I found out I don't have a CLSD? What would I need to change the final drive to 3.9 or so, too. I'm not too good with this "type" of LSD :-/

300zx pan? from which engine?

most likely examining a spare block by cutting it near the 5th and 6th cylinder, then gun-drilling the block to be built using good measurements and precise location/tools. I think it's more work than it's worth. I don't know of many articles of ppl who had issues with that at 600hp or even 1000hp. Maybe they're withholding info. And now you just went and scared all the RB26 owners.

any word, petey-bird?

Thought I'd update with some small pics (large pics are going to be on my website when I cross that bridge) all the pics I'll be putting on my website will be of similar quality, only way larger. all the pics of each and every bolt going on the RB (took all the shots already, but you'll have to wait... tee hee) before it goes into the engine bay, and hopefully after if it's easy to do so. but I got to get a DSLR first, this point-and-shoot I'm borrowing is making it difficult to get pics this clear About the unit itself. It comes well packaged in a nice box. Good for storing it while it's not installed. Not a cheaply made balancer by any means. Probably not as well constructed as ATi, but I've never seen one in person. Steel Inner, Alloy Outer (SA0330) SFI 18.1 compliant. DOES NOT HAVE timing marks ALL THE WAY around the unit, as said on their website "all" Romac Balancers have timing marks around the entire perimeter of the unit FALSE- clearly indicated on these tiny pictures, even Still pretty happy that I got main studs and a balancer at 80% of the price of an ATI or Ross.

what do you mean by bigger heads? I'm actually going downstairs now to take pictures of all my parts that I have, and I will host a PDF with all the parts on my RB30DE.com website when I get around to it. I'm not rushing it though. I like to take things easy.

Cool, a lot of us are in the same boat then. looking forward to your progress. have you checked your prices for rb26's ?

well, you might be able to take a page from the book of stony, and see how long it's taken and how much he's put into his build. It ain't gonna be cheap, whether or not you do it yourself. and it will definately not be cheap if you give it to someone else to do. are you budgeting yourself (loosely)?

There should be a warning banner on every RB thread because of that same problem everyone has. Don't worry about it man. There's no rush, is there? Feed it a little at a time, and it won't bark for a refill as often =)