Miles

" I do not have the window frame installed yet. " Install the window frame and adjust as needed. All frame bolts must be tight as they pull the frame into the correct geometry. Here is a book that I used to to do two 240z restomods. Gives details on how to disassemble, restore and reassemble a 240Z. Lots of pictures with step by step instructions. How to Restore Your Datsun Z-Car by Wick Humble available on Amazon

I never had success with Vintage Rubber hatch or windshield seals on two 240z projects. I ended up using stock OEM seals. I recall getting the OEM seals from Courtesy Nissan and Motor Sport Auto (MSA). The problems I had with Vintage Rubber were deformed corners making it impossible to install. I used the rope trick and installed the stainless steel center trim in the windshield and hatch seal before installing the seals using the rope trick. Also, Vintage Rubber door seals were too thick making it impossible to close the doors. I went to Pep Boys and bought generic door seals that squeeze onto the door opening pinch welds. The problems with Vintage Rubber seals has been known for over 20 years. Lots of info here on HybridZ. There is a company that makes the windshield and hatch seals without the center stainless trim.

Another option would be to use the 1979 Toyota 4x4 pickup front calipers for solid rotors which are plentiful and cheap. Using Carbotech AX6 pads with the Toyota calipers works well with my set up: 15/16 MC 9 inch dia 280z booster. Swapped the 240z brake pedal push rod into the 280z booster for stock connection to brake pedal. Front: Toyota calipers for solid rotors. Used SS braided line to connect hard line to caliper to eliminate the Toyota "S" tube. Rear: 89 240sx rear calipers with 1984 non-turbo 300zx rotors Carbotech AX6 pads front and rear

Might check with Carl Beck at Classic Z cars. Scroll down to Carl's post. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/44384-sumitomo-mk63-caliper-question/

If you know the thread pitch of the bleed screws, could using "speed bleeders" be an optional replacement? http://www.speedbleeder.com/main.htm https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-280040erl The Sumitomo MK63 looks like a slimmer version of the Toyota 4x4 pickup calipers. Is the Sumitomo MK63 a direct bolt-on replacement for the stock Datsun calipers?

Try contacting the guy who wrote this: https://www.jdmjunkies.ch/wordpress/2021-01-17/240z-the-guide-to-sumitomo-mk63-brakes/ Looks current and there are commenters at the end.

My kit from Modern Motor Sports (out of business) used 240sx calipers and 1984 non-turbo 300zx rotors.

If the SU carb has an air leak, it will create a lean condition for which no amount of tuning will correct. The problem with the SU carburetors is that the throttle shaft becomes worn and allows air to seep past the shaft and into the carb causing a lean condition. You can try contacting ZTherapy who specializes in SU carbs and parts. Also they sell a video called "Just SUs" it explains how to repair and tune the SU carb. Just SUs video covers: 4 hrs of advanced college level theory of operation, diagnostics, tuning, surgical Weber removing and disposal. Covers all years of Japanese Hitachi "SU" and 1.6L-2.0 Volvo HS6 1 3/4" SU (HS4, HS2 same). Our newest video, 4 years in the making. Directly replaces the first 1.5 hrs of ZTV01. Heavily updates and corrects info from ZTV01. Part one is inspecting and installing new ZT carbs and "Tuning for Dummies". Part two is "Installing and Tuning a ZT Master Tuneup Kit for Dummies". Balance of tape is answering common questions, racer tech and mods, airflow studies, horns, cold air box, etc. We address the Q+A sessions from the 2000 MSA and LSV shows-I worked hard to answer your questions on this video. If this does not answer every issue you ever had about the mighty SU, call me! If you still don't get a satisfactory answer, demand your money back!!! Ships free with new ZT carbs and the ZT MasterTuneUp kits. Available in single play mode on two 2 hr SP tapes for $20 or on one single EP mode tape for $15 (lower video quality). DVD available for $25 https://www.ztherapy.com/

The best performing pads that I have tried on my SBC 350 240z. I have tried all of the Porterfield, Hawk etc pads and they suck in comparison. My brake setup: Carbotech Ax6 pads work really well with this setup. Front: 1979 Toyota 4x4 pickup calipers for solid rotors. Direct bolt on. Rear: 1989 240sx rear calipers 1979 280zx 15/16 in. master cylinder 1978 280z 9 inch booster. Notes about Ax6 pads: Excellent cold bite which is great for a daily driver. Dusty at first, but I don't care. Stopping performance is what is important. No sign of fading!!! No noise Buy direct from Carbotech. Carbotech staff is helpful and courteous.

It is most likely the headlight combo switch: https://www.zcar.com/threads/headlight-combination-switch-repair.311982/

https://ztherapy.com/

American Racing Ansen Sprint wheels 15" 4 x 4.5 bolt pattern https://www.americanracingequipment.ca/product/wheels/vn69-ansen-sprint/ Check with American Racing to see if they are still available. I bought mine at Summit Racing, but they are out of stock. Shop around. My z pictured

Hybrid search sucks. Copy and paste into Google search: EZ wiring kit install 240z site:forums.hybridz.org

Milesz I responded to your message before seeing this post. I recall members posting how to install the EZ wiring kit with instructions on how to, for example, connect to the TS/headlight combo switch etc.

Thanks for the fix and update.

Profile now says I am an "Apprentice" but I have over 2000 posts. A few hours ago it said that I am a Newbie. I have over 2000 posts. So not a newbie. I could not respond to any posts.

I have over 2000 posts. So not a newbie. I could not respond to any posts.

I have over 2000 posts. So not a newbie. I could not respond to any posts.

I have over 2000 posts. So not a newbie. I could not respond to any posts.

Log in says I am a Newbie but have been here since July 28, 2001 and I cant respond to posts

Walkerbk: Please post If you are able come up with a fix. I ended up removing my brake switch and using a three-way connector to connect the two two front brake lines.

I fixed my cooling problems here:

For my v8 project

I recommend to all Z car owners to buy this book available at Amazon: How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble It details how to disassemble, restore and re-assemble 240z cars. It contains step by step instructions. It has saved me hours and hours of research. Remove the black door lock plunger knob Remove the arm rest, door handle chrome cover under door handle and then the door panel. Remove three bolts holding the door mechanism to the door Remove the activating rod pivot screw Remove two bolts holding the door release handle and unhook the activating rod from the door handle

This worked for me when the nose of the hood wouldn't align with the headlight buckets: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/42496-hood-alignment/ To lower the hood, you have to tilt the hood. Get the hood wide open, loosen the 2x 2 bolts between the hinges & the hood. Then push gently with your knee on the bottom side, where the emblem is, and pull towards you the top. Clamp the bolts. That will create a rotation motion of the hood that will lower the front while it will be closed. Try to close it gently since hood might still rub against the fenders. To center it, you have to play with top/bottom position with a translation, still with the same bolts. If it is too far on the left, you have to lower the right side & to rise left side. I know how it works, I still fight each time I want to put everything back together.