Miles

What happened to the shed where junk posts went to avoid filling the site with garbage?

Looks like that kit uses either a 240SX or Maxima calipers. You could use stock 240SX or Maxima parking brake cable brackets. But why go to that trouble. You paid for a turn-key kit. The person you talked to blew you off. Other companies sell this same kit: MSA, Silver mine etc. I have done the Maxima and 240SX caliper swaps and used the 240SX/Maxima hangers (cable brackets) with stock parking brake cable. The only issue was that the hole in the 240SX/Maxima bracket was a little bigger than the 240z cable end so the cable was loose in the hole. I have also made custom cable brackets. See picture. The end that the cable attaches to is off my 240z. I cut off the cable end of a 240SX bracket and welded the 240Z cable end onto it. So the 240Z cable end fit perfectly into the bracket. What ever you do don't try to modify the parts they sent you so you can return the kit. Send the kit back. If you really want one of these kits try MSA or Silver mine.

Most of the so called brake upgrades are not upgrades at all. The popular upgrades tend to result in too much front brake bias creating an unbalanced brake system. Many people regret "upgrading" their brakes after discovering that their brake modifications did not improve braking. Stock brakes are designed as a system. Changing one braking component has an unplanned domino effect on the rest of the system. I recommend that you you spend a lot of time reading all of the "brake upgrade" posts before making a decision to modify your car. Look at the posts that deal with brake bias. Well maintained stock brakes are fine for most 240Z applications.

Welcome. Useful information: Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM). http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30.html Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers. Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions Search the forums. Read all of the new member guidelines and FAQs Links: https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/ Recommend the headlight relay harness http://zhome.com/ https://www.zcar.com/ https://www.classiczcars.com/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.arizonazcar.com/ http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html http://www.xenonzcar.com/reference.html

It doesn't hurt to check all of the variables, but ultimately it comes down to how efficient the radiator is.

My stock 72 240z did the exact same thing. I did all of the usual checks for : fan clutch, timing, mixture, collapsing water hose at high RPM, thermostat ratings, no thermostat, flow restrictors (in place of thermostat) , water pump, Camaro radiator (marginal) etc. Had some marginal success, but the temps would still creep up. My brother's brand new 72 240Z over heated at cruise speed! My take is that the stock cooling system is just undersized. Your Z gets hot at high speed where air flow is high. The fan and shroud are necessary at low speed stop and go. At speeds above say 30 or 40 mph, air flow through the radiator is adequate to cool the engine. At some point the fan clutch releases and the fan just spins like a windmill. At 60 mph air is moving at 88ft/sec or 5,280 ft/min. Lots of air moving through the radiator. So the problem must be in the radiator, water flow, timing, mixture, belt slippage etc. Take away: You need a better, higher capacity, radiator, and if using a mechanical fan, make sure that the fan clutch is working. BTW: a mechanical fan is fine. You might want to try the direct-fit radiator from Arizona Z Car and add a shroud to it if stop and go cause the temps to creep up.. This radiator keeps my SBC 350 240z cool in traffic on 100 deg. days.

EDIT

I am following this post. Please update as things progress. I was working on this same approach.

Welcome. Useful information: Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM). http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30.html Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers. For SU carbs, parts and instructions go to Ztherapy. Buy the "Just SUs" video. Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions Search the forums. Read all of the new member guidelines and FAQs Links: https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/ Recommend the headlight relay harness http://zhome.com/ https://www.zcar.com/ https://www.classiczcars.com/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.arizonazcar.com/ http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html http://www.ztherapy.com/ http://www.xenonzcar.com/reference.html

T3 is developing a new rear caliper kit that will allow fitting of 15 inch wheels. The kit is being designed to compliment their Micro Big Brake front kit and it will have an integral parking brake. The owner says the rear kit should be out in a month or so.

Techno Toy Tuning (TTT) has developed a front brake kit that fits under 14inch and 15 inch wheels. No details about the calipers or rotors. https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/240z-micro-big-brake-kit I talked to the owner of TTT and he said that they would soon have a similar rear caliper kit that includes an integral parking brake available that will fit under 14 inch and 15 inch wheels. A Classic Z car member has already installed the TTT front kit. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/62973-new-micro-big-brake-kit/

What do you mean by stub axle? The part that goes in the side of the differential or the part that goes in the bottom of the strut and connects the half shaft to the wheel flange?

There is your clue. The oil pressure sending unit is just a variable resister. If I recall correctly, the sending unit basically grounds the oil pressure gauge (moving the needle) as oil pressure increases. So, if when the wire to the oil pressure gauge is connected, and the gauge needle goes all the way to full pressure, what does that imply: The wire going to the sending unit is shorted out? However, when you removed the wire from the sending unit, the needle did not move. So you can rule this out. Or the sending unit is bad. Another test: while watching the oil gauge, with power on, short the sending wire to ground. What happens? Does the needle move to full pressure? If the needle moves the gauge is ok.

What year? MSA has them

By cones do you mean the rubber residual check valves or the cone shaped seats the brake pipe seats sits on when mated to the mc? And yes every 280zx mc I took apart had the rubber residual check valves.

Re: Holley model number 4150 Street Avenger 570 cfm p/n 0-80570 Goodwrench SBC 350 crate engine Gathering parts for rebuild due to ragged idle on start up and low speed surging up to 30 mph. High speed cruise and WOT car is still a rocket. Car dyno tuned in 2010. Ran fine for 10 years until about a month ago. I am researching the replacement part number for the primary metering block should I need one . The Holley website does not give a p/n for a metering block for the 570cfm carburetor. I found a Holley part number cross reference pdf that lists the metering block for the 570 cfm carburetor as n/s (non serviced). So if the metering block needs replacing is there another Holley p/n that will work?

What year and model z car do you have? Will it be a daily driver? Any mods done to car?

There are three install kits available: Jags That Run (JTR) Motor Sport Auto (MSA) Johns Cars Each has its own pros and cons. Driveshaft alignment is critical for all of these kits. You can research each one at HybridZ and Google search All of the kits assume that you have some automotive mechanical skills. If not done correctly these cars can kill you,

Useful information Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM). http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/48825-factory-manuals-some/?page=2&tab=comments#comment-1208329 Buy the JTR Datsun Z V8 Conversion Manual from http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html Read it at least five times. Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Search the Hybridz forums. Read all of the new member guidelines and FAQs Links: https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/ Recommend the headlight relay harness http://zhome.com/ https://www.zcar.com/ https://www.classiczcars.com/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.arizonazcar.com/ http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html http://www.xenonzcar.com/reference.html

https://forums.hybridz.org/search/?q=dreaded clunk

Try starting the car with the wire to the oil pressure sensor disconnected from the sensor and observe the oil pressure gauge. With the engine running and the wire removed from the sensor what does oil pressure gauge do?

If you can block the engine up, pull the transmission (leaving the bell housing on the engine) and loosen all of the clamps that hold the fuel line in the tunnel you may be able to move the fuel enough to cut that group of fittings off. Then you can install a A-N hose fitting to hard line adapter on the fuel line. You will have to teach yourself how to make up a SS braided hose ends (fittings). The other problem you have is that the transmission is actually riding against the fuel line. The PO cut a piece of the transmission out to clear the fuel line. You will need to address this by re-routing the fuel line away from the transmission.

I don't want to scare you, but that first 240Z V8 project I mentioned above was so FUBARed up by the previous owner that we ended up pulling it completely apart (shell) and started over. The only part we kept was the engine.

You can also use Microsoft Paint. Open the picture in Paint and select Resize. A picture can be resized between 1% to100% up or down.

I didn't see this before I had coffee. It could kill you. So re-engineer your fuel line routing before driving this car. Suggest that you post pictures of the fuel tank to fuel pump to fuel line and include showing how the fuel pump is wired. In other words all of the fuel related equipment, wires, pump etc back by the fuel tank. I now suspect there may be problems in how the fuel system was built from the tank forward.