John Scott

Ahh, my point exactly. After a day at the keyboard, my Antique Schwinn Cruiser seems fast.

Fast is relative. Some would yawn at anything wimpier than 7 lb/hp ratio, or slower than 3 seconds to 60. Looks like a great find, Yasin. Would make a nice daily driver.

Something about Standard Atmospheric Conditions. For the conversion to be accurate the temp needs to be around 38 degrees Altitude(feet) Pressure(in. Hg) Temp.(F°) Density(%) 6,000----------- 23.98 ------- 37.6----- 83.6. Since we race in warm weather, Density altitude is more like 7000, cool day, to hot summer days 10,000+. Plenty of info on the web.

Dang! Sorry to hear. Your car has been one of my favorite HybridZ builds. Hope you can salvage something. I've been running the Pro mags for my last two builds. I know they're durable.

above post too old to edit. ....I read another source on Belevilles and I don't believe they are intended to compress beyond a certain %, certainly not flat. I should be saying compress(ed), not stack(ed).

I know I'm probably overthinking this but checking on some more measurements. I'm totalling the compressed washers, using clay for assembled dimensions, and find little if any room for the Mcmaster washers to do their work. This has been discussed before, http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123654 but I see no "happily ever afters" Assuming all washers are stacked flat, no spring capability left. 8 OBX washers stacked solid .40 8 McMaster washers stacked solid .50 (.496) washer retainers touching, (space between inside retention lips) .31 clearance between floating retainer spacer and side gear .020 (other gear flush against case) measured with clay, assembled w/o washers clearance between floating retainer spacer and top of retainer .040 retainers are slightly inset into spacer. Total clearance is about .51x, about what the Mcmasters take up. Original clearance for OBX original washers to flex would be aprox .15 With Mcmaster it is aprox .05. Seems you would want a bit of room for movement?? Now wondering if I shouldn't be considering dropping the # of Mcmaster washers to allow some movement. 7 stacked solid would be .434 Tight or with some compression room? Keep reading and a few sources seem to favor the preload isn't that critical, as long as there is "enough" to limit a free axle. No question the Mcmasters are sturdier, I just don't know if thicker is better. Wish I knew what Quaife has for clearance in the preloaded washers, once assembled. Apparently, Quaife stacking )()()()( goes for deflection with no increase in load. Originally Posted by Patent Office Differential with preload spring Document Type and Number: United States Patent 5524509 Abstract: An improved differential mechanism of the holdout ring type, characterized by the provision of a pair of annular thrust blocks engaged by sets of Belleville disc-spring washers which bias a pair of side gears axially outwardly apart against a pair of annular thrust washers, respectively, non-rotatably supported by the differential housing. By loading the side gears in the axial direction, the side gear radial freedom of movement is restricted, whereby the differential chatter and noise level during operation are significantly reduced. No real other reason for preload. I guess washer stacking is a science in itself. http://www.solonmfg.com/springs/features.cfm One more edit, long post, but I think it's important. I ended up using 7 Mcmaster washers stacked ()()()(. Not to worry about the ( washer, my axle stubs aren't going to hit the washers, I measured. The reason I went this way was I believe Quaife stacks their washers in series, )()()(.. as posted above, for deflection, while relying on only the force of 1 Beleville to put force on the side gears. When I used 8 Mcmaster washers I got a lot higher "break away" torque than with 7. Since stacking Belevilles in series will not increase force, I feel the only reason I got higher break away was due to the binding of the sidegears against the case due to no clearance left. Using 7 left me about .12 for clearance. Others running 8 Mcmasters, 1.250 x 0.0630 x 0.062, might want to check for solid stacking and little to 0 clearance. I read another source on Belevilles and I don't believe they are intended to stack beyond a certain %, certainly not flat. Now only time will tell if this was a good way. rbryant posted here a long time ago on an OBX washer topic supplies washers and bolts for OBX, reputed to have washers same thickness as original, so the flat stacking would not be an issue. http://rbryant.freeshell.org/obx_washers

Sounds great. Even with the wheelspin looks like daylight under the front tire. What springs, tire combo are you using?

Yes, my choice of sockets are not the ideal size. Maybe I've got the wrong music playing or not holding my tongue right. Edit, that was it. Found a better socket in my "old" tool box, changed radio station and held my tongue left. Went right in. Thanks Jon. Also of note, when I stacked my McMaster's like the Quaife, )()()()(, I'm getting a bit more "dry breakaway" torque than cygnusx1. I have a click type torque wrench, but notice it breaks just under 20 lbs/ft. Not a real accurate measurement, but I'm satisfied with the idea of using the force of all the washers. Reading an old post johnc mentioned upping the internal preload for higher hp platforms. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=71750&highlight=breakaway+quaife Never did hear the result.

Is there a cool trick in installing the axle C-clip retainers into the groove inside the helical gear on the OBX? Seems like the simplest part is kicking my butt.

Yes, stub axles and 1/2 shafts came from another R200, don't remember exact year, but I remember it was a 280. Sorry don't want to sell as those are the ones I'm using with my u-joint 1/2s. Someday I'll upgrade to the ZXT CVs, but mine is a budget car. To say others here know 100 X more than myself on the subject of R200s would be an understatement. I'm just posting as to what I've experienced.

My point was that I'm using u-joint 1/2 shafts with the '86 R200, block in place, not the CVs. My axle stubs are the pic. above. All I did was pop out the CVs and pop in my stubs. 1000s of miles later, road trips, a few race days its back out for an OBX install. Steel cable wrapped around nose is tidier than chain. I like my security blanket of running Ron Tyler style AND factory mount. LOL, I think your term "thrustblock" sounds better than "thingy"

R200 spiders '86 300ZX I assume datjunky means this thingy I think my U joint axles are from another R200 280 and popped in fine. The original '86 axles were CVs, of course. You need to have the C-Clip retained style axles, not bolt in: longer on passenger side. So if this is what you mean, you don't need to remove, axles will pop in fine. Since you have a '70 a few more considerations when swapping to R200, lots of documentation already posted.

If its just a crap shoot then I'm going )()()()( Seems they might last longer this way since all the washers take an equal amount of the compression rather than just one or two getting repeatedly abused.. Dropped an email to OBX Racing, just letting them know about the QC issues. If they really wanted a competitive place in the performance parts world, truly were a company with pride, they would respond. Surely OBX is not a manufacturing firm with active and ongoing design and engineering. I'd guess its just a warehouse running cheaply made items through as fast as possible. Not expecting a response. Can't locate side bearing puller, local machine shop still think their service is priceless. Anyone interested in new R200 side bearings, National 30209-C, best price I could locate was autopartsgiant.com. 5/01/09 price was under $85/2 no charge for shipping.

Received mine yesterday. Unit looks good, oily, not too dirty, all bolts match. No part number on box or on the differential I can find. My gears are in upside down like cygnusx1! Goes to show, forget the voided warranty if tampered with. Best to open it up. The labor involved in putting this in is worth more than a "free" replacement. My washer stack came installed: ())()(() aprox .76" Any rhyme or reason why there is a difference in how the washer stacking changes from the manufacturer? Mine ())()(() lbhsbZ ((()())) cygnusx1 ()()(()) EMWHYROHEN ))))(((( ???? What are we shooting for? Anyone? If I stack the McMaster's like mine came ())()((), the height is only .65" Otherwise Backlash is .007+, gears look great, as do bearings. I was reading that 12.9 casing bolts should be torqued to 28 lb ft. Someone correct if that's not a good figure. Otherwise, just need to check backlash with OBX in place. Didn't occur to me that axel spring clip retainers need to be removed from old carrier and put in new. I figured they'd come in the new carrier. Sorry for the obvious, really new territory for me.

Since I'm a bonehead on the subject, what would be a good starting point for washer number and stacking order? Perhaps this will make more sense when I open one up, but since there's been a variety of number and order, still searching for proper set up.

Got to live in Galveston last week for spring break. Besides an occasional hurricane, you guys are lucky to have the thick air, warm gulf waters, great seafood and BBQ! Inhaled once last saturday, next breath was the following saturday. Good thing because my mouth was always full of good food. I could only imagine the hp my Z would pick up running 5780 feet lower.

Recommended highly modified engine for optimal operation. I like that kind of talk! LSD10528. Thanks for the number. Looking forward to long term reports with abusive tq and hp.

This has been a great thread. Wondering why OBX RacingSports doesn't make any mention of these on their webpage. Also if it was posted, sorry, but is there an OBX part # for the r200 unit.

If sorting by et, since ets are the same then I'd guess the next default means of sorting is name or perhaps date as Stony suggested, but I don't see date as one of the fields. All depends what query is programed into the search parameters. The name 1 QUICK Z starts with a number, which typically sorts first before letters. Change your name to _RIPSNZ and maybe you will come up on top since underscores sort before numbers. Same ets, you win mph. If by stats alone you should be on top. I just stuck in a ficticious time identical in et and mph to another member on page 5. My ranking was higher due to alphabetical sorting. Plugged in same et and less mph and still ranked higher. I would suggest rewriting sort by et query to sort et by mph as next parameter.

Sorry didn't see Mike C's post. Early here, no coffee yet. I second the recommedation This is the lowest I've ever seen for Holley carb. Vic Jr w/4" cleaner, close hood. Currently running 1/2" spacer and 3.5 X 14, no problem. I cut off vent tube and sealed hole.

I can't remember where I purchased, either Advance auto parts or Auto Zone I'm thinking the part # will be 15430 Really not that expensive. 7-10$ I just bought what they had. I had a feeling this wouldn't be clear. Here's image from belt: http://www.daycoproducts.com/daycoweb.nsf/DaycoFleetBeltsTensionersPulleys.pdf page 55.

Just as a side note, I'm using the same March kit and have had no issues. I've been running the same belt for 3-4 years, often 7k+. Using Dayco TopCog #s on belt: 154301A1090 182 154301A1090 183 192 D3 Mine's not overly tight, check after initial run in, longest run between alternator and crank pully about 1/2 - 3/4" deflection Also, could you have a siezing water pump or alternator?

Amazing how the personality of the Z changes. Pretty cool. I look forward to the finished car.