Tim240z

Local paper classifieds. Locally here, I see at least two to four early Z cars every week. Tim

But we've had a Gov that had a tremendous political resume and was perfectly qualified to lead. We have a Lt. Gov with almost as sterling a political resume. They both f$%#ed up and failed to lead. For the last 5 years California has been a progressive liberal's paradise! An unfettered experiment in liberalism where the Democratic leaders basically had carte blanche (legislative control and a $40B budget surplus) to build their socialist utopian ideal. They spent 5 years and $78B on the experiment and it failed. That's why someone like Arnold (a complete outsider) was elected. That's why someone like Davis (a complete insider) was given the boot. That's why a political hack like Bustamante was basically ignored at the polls - by his own party! Whether Arnold was the best possible candidate or not is irrelevant. He was the only electable candidate that promised change. He was the only electable candidate who's promises we could believe. Very well put!! Eloquent as always Mr. C! 8) Tim

Try doing a search from the home page. That way you can search all forums at once. Tim

WOW! I feel like I relly 'Mickey Mouse'd' my job now!!! Tim

Now that's a familiar site Tim

Cool!! Now that's the right way to do it. I used sand paper...it took forever!! Better get some metal prep on that car soon!! Looks great!! Tim

Lee, Are you saying that you want to put the engine in the 'bed'? If that's the case, why not get a Toronado front drive axle? Just lock the steering, using some heim joints or something, then you will have adjustable toe setting in the rear. My Dad did something similar with a Ford Cortina pickup way back when with a blown big block, but used a Getrag box. Fuel tank, radiator and oil cooler were mounted forward of the firewall. Tim

You could have blown the gasket at Cyl #5. Tim

MY 2c... Pull the head. Replace the gasket. Have the head checked for straightness (such long heads tend to warp easily). Replace the head. I highly doubt that you've fried a ring. Change the oil and water. Have you tried retorquing the headbolts? Tim

Dang Mike...you're falling apart!! I think it's time for a frame off restoration! . Drop some extra HP inthere 'while you're at it'! Hope the mechanic (I mean Doctor) sorts you out! Tim

I believe if you change the sensor to a 2 bar, or 3 bar depending on boost levels, the LT1 PCM will handle it just fine. Tim

Anyone up for a chat? Chat room will need the cobwebs swept away!! Tim

I bet if you take your old cap to a decent parts shop, they will have something that will work! Tim

If you want a cheap 'ghetto' setup, I heard from Scott (ZR8ed here on the board), that you can use the springs from a 4 door chevette. They are quite a bit stiffer than the stock Z springs, drop the ride height by ~1", and are a bolt on conversion. Tim

As long as you aren't slipping/overheating the clutch, you should be fine. Tim

It really depends on how close you have all of your tolerances set. If you measured everything (ring gap, bearing clearances etc) to a gnats ball hair, then (getting ready to be flamed), break-in of more than 1/2 hour or so is unecessary. FWIW, when my Dad rebuilds his racing motor (sbc spinning to 8grand, at 600+ HP) in circuit racing, he gives it 2 laps to check water temp, oil temp and oil pressure, then hammers it. He has always told me that break in is unnecessary (except if using flat tappet cam, then obviously you need to give it ample oil supply initially). I've rebuilt several motors, SBF, SBC, 4 bangers, V6s, L-6 etc and never blown any of them up. Hell, the 302 ford I built for oval dirttrack, I didn't even give it a chance. Warmed it up and raced it...straight off the trailer. (late getting to the track). I won that heat and the engine never gave up, no matter how badly I valve floated it!! I don't know if boosted applications make any difference to break in, but I would assume not. I think that you are good to go. Tim

Make sure that you check the head surface for trueness when you pull it! My 2c worth....whenever rebuilding a motor, replace the water pump, oil pump, freeze plugs (esp the ones in the front of the engine in a L6), and the timing chain and tentioners. Don't forget to prime the new oil pump. Good luck....you certainly need some at this point. Tim

T3 exhaust housings will be too small. TO4s are the answer. Tim

also, think about the long term costs. If you start pushing the envelope with the boosted 13b, a failure of an engine component is going to cost you a good bit more than a domestic 8 banger. Although, the rotary would be cool conversion. I say do it, just be a little different. Tim

gauges, from left to right: Speedo Tach Oil Pressure Oil Temp Water temp Lower: Fuel level Volt The only extra one is Oil Temp., but since none of them are combo gauges..... Turn signal indicators are individual pilot lights on the dash panel (where the heater controls used to be). Tim

Yup, that's paint. When the jams (incl. the underside of the hood and hatch and inside of the doors) were painted, they were back taped so that all the edges got a good shot of paint. Don't want the edges to be thin. The spoiler sits about the thickness of paper from the 1/4 panel. All the bodylines and panels are to very close tolerances. Hell, it's taken me 2 years of bodywork to get it that way. I had to basically recreate all the bodylines on the car to get them crisp and straight again...the fenders, doors and quarter panels were all pretty messed up after 30 years of dings and getting leaned on etc. The top of the fenders were really bad....from mechanics leaning on them when working on the engine I would guess. That took some metal work to shrink the metal straight again. I think the hardest panel (besides the rear panel of course) was the cowl in front of the windshield. It's so thin and flimsy, makes it tough to work on. Tim

Cobra Killer (or weasel, as John Coffey like to rib). Was planning on painting it this weekend, but the paint booth wasn't available, so next Sunday it is. I, (in my infinite wisdom ) decided to spray a little foam behind the rear panel to give it a bit more strength. Well, it expanded so violently, that it wrinkled the entire panel. So after over 100 hours of work to get it perfectly straight, I was back to square one!! So I made lemonade from the lemons and put in a recessed license plate holder. Took me an afternoon of work and came out really nicely. Anyways, here are a few pics: The dark lines that you see around the hatch and the door are because the jams have been painted already. Tim

Wrong radiator cap... Tim

If you want to get together with a bunch of HybridZ guys in SoCal, see here: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=25899 I know that you know where my house is Tim

Definitely!!