Tim240z

We need to bring stoning back!! This $h1t makes me sick!! This stuff happens way to often. Where the hell is the world going!! I have always wondered if these events are happening more frequently, or if its just a matter of the media reporting it more often. Either way...kill em all!! Eye for an eye!! Tim

Hmmmm, I wonder if you'll beat Alex (Auxillary) to complete the swap....Alex? Tim

It's Terry's (BlueOvalZ). Do a search for his username and you'll find a bunch of posts from him. he is our resident Fiberglassing bod mod and ford swap Guru (sorry if I've forgotten your other skillz Terry!!) Tim

Man, Zeeboost...I bet that's not what you wanted to hear! Tim

Don't know if Ross is up to anything in that regard, but I have spoken to Mike about this and I have my machinist making up some. He actually took a week off from his 'day job' to complete them (the prototypes). He is making them out of stainless and, considering is other work for me and others, they will be great. He plans to make them out of 3 different materials, so there will be three different 'stages' or $$$ values. (Stainless, steel, and chromoly). These are the rears. Once those are done, he will start on the fronts. I have also spoken to John Coffey, and I will likely ask him to 'track test' the prototypes. John you out there? Tim

There is no wing either!! This very obviously a wannabe/amateur ricer Tim

I guess you could always find some old junky carbs and hide some injectors in them and have the best of both worlds. Tim

My machinist makes them out of Aluminum. $20 for cast aluminum and $40 for billet. Tim

Bryan, Just go to the JY and pull a 240sx TB. Then buy a 1 inch adapter/spacer ($20) and slap it together. Ideally you will need to port out the inlet of the manifold to take advantage of the 60mm TB, and some longer bolts to make up for the extra inch adaper. that's it, i believe. Tim

I think that either way, with that HP range, you will have to reinforce the chassis. So the decision will likely be based on: Emissions regulations in your region Availability of cars in decent shape. Keep in mind that 240Zs are beginning to get scarse in the Yards now. Tim

My 2c: I would be skeptical about buying a V8z and then upgrading it. Unless you know who and where it came from, I never trust anyone elses work. That's just the way I am. Not saying that everything I do is the best, but at least I know how it was done. If it was my $20Grand, I would find the absolute nicest Z I could, regardless of the drivetrain. Then drop in the motor and trans of your choosing. That way all you will to concentrate on is the drivetrain, and not bodywork, rust, interior etc. For arguments sake: Also, I guess the big question is....will he be doing the work himself, or having a shop do it? If a shop does it, then it will cost significantly more. car: $8000.00 (for a near perfect car) Crate motor (~350-400hp): $5000 Trans (auto): $1000 Driveshaft, mount kit radiator and other ancillary crap: $1500.00 New wheels and tires: $1000.00 Now you have a pretty, solid, very fast car for <$17k and have $$ left over for other stuff like stereo, nice steering wheel, or whatever else... Tim

By the way...just read the article and the Z belongs to one of our long time members...Rick Johnson. His car is the absolute nicest and cleanest and most professional looking conversion I've seen in person. Hopefully he will be at the BBQ in November again. Tim

If you are not getting complete combustion, then go hotter. But if you are using stock plugs and you are running rich, then you have other problems...fix the problem, not the symptom Tim

If you are ruling out the Chevy V8 because of hood latch clearance and setback, then keep the LT1/LT4 in mind. No rear mounted dissy. Maybe take Mr. Juday up on his offer as he just did the LT1 conversion in a TH. The LS1 is also nice, but a little more fabbing involved, about as much as if you went with a Ford V8. Tim

Awww...come on now...you're not looking hard enough Look at the online catalogue page 2854 Machine screws/metric from the main page. Tim

look on http://www.mcmaster.com/ Tim

As for the why..... Bodywork takes a LONG time!! Why tie all that $$$ up in an engine that you won't need for months, likely years. Plus, if you build an engine, by the time you get to installing it, you will have likely changed your mind on the build several times. Use the time working on the body to hunt for deals on engine parts and make your mind up on the type of build you want. I originally built my car for a carbed SBC. Bought all the accessories (trans, fuel pump, shifter..blah blah, blah), then found a really good deal on a LT1/T56. None of the stuff i had accumulated was any good to me anymore. just FFT. Tim

You should be able to do a HP rebuild of the 700R4 that will handle that torque. If you plan to go 3 speed, then get a TH400. they are much stronger than the TH350. If you are still wanting a 4 speed and are worried about the power potential, get a 4L80E (4 speed version of the TH400). BowtieOverdrives has a stand alone computer and TV cable to use the 4L80E with a non-computer controlled engine. TIm

I just picked up the mag from the local 7-11. First time I've ever bought an 'Import Tuner' magazine. I crawled into my dark trench coat, pulled the collar up around my neck, put on very dark glasses (which made finding the magazine very difficult ), slithered quietly into the store, grabbed the magazine off the rack (recon. mission the day before...that way I knew exactly where in the rack it was and I wouldn't have to stand there long), paid with exact change in unmarked bills and new coins, and slid out the door before anyone knew what had happened. The magazine is still in it's protective plastic cover, though! I've been driving around randomly to ensure that I'm not being followed by any investigative reporters....wouldn't want this 'purchase' of ricey goods to get out there! Romeo--India--Charlie--Echo----Sierra--Unicorn--XRay!! Tim

it's light sanding with wet 'smooth' sandpaper. Tim

Try some buffing compound, or as a final resort, color sand it with 1500 grit paper. Tim

Before you get too carried away....make sure that your cam timing is right. Even a completely wanked bottom end will produce compression, but if your valves are open at the wrong time, then that will give you no compression. Trouble shoot it a bit before you throw in the towel. Otherwise, I might buy it from you....depending on the price to ship. I've got a complete SBC just waiting for a donor. Get the #1 piston to TDC and check to see if your valves are closed., then turn the engine and check each set of valves (on firing order) to see if that might be your problem. Don't give up in haste. Tim

Yeah, the 200 4R came in 6 cylinder cars....like the Buick grand national Turbo!! If you do a search, you'll find a lot of info on the comparison between the two. Tim

Sonny, That's gonna be a lot of work if the rad support is also rusted out. Read Pete's pages on 'mistakes' vis-a-vis the rust. I used 1 x 3 tubing on my frame rails and it worked out well. Pics on my pages. Tim

Bryan, I have a laptop that I can let go for cheap. IBM 600 pentium II 400 THe battery is dead, so it has to have main power supply hooked up, and it already has the MS software on it. Battery should be easy to source if you need the portability. You can have it for $150 Tim