Tim240z

Imagestation link is broken, I get a Db error. Tim (yes, I'm a member)

Actually John, I heard some 8.8mm MSD wires, a big @$$ coil and a set of split fire plugs would add huige HP, but could not confirm I should just tell him to put a bunch of decals on it....... Tim

Thanks Mike!!! Keep it coming guys...anyone know the difference between the CA and 49 states models? Tim

Anyone have any info on the ability to tune the new Dodge Ram Turbo Diesels? The CA model is way low on HP compared to the 49 State model...anyone know the reason for this? My Boss has one, and has already done the exhaust, and can 'chip' it, but surely there's a editing program for it? Anyone? Thanks, Tim

Doesn't work for the $EE definition file cars (94 - 95 Y, F & B CAR 5.7L, LT1 ), but other will be happy. http://www.tunercat.com/tnr_desc/do_tc.html Tim

Terry!! You're back!! Been wondering...actually started a thread wondering if you were still kickin' Tim

Check BowtieOverdrives.com Tim

Keep an eye on the lead filled area in the 'pillar' between the rear 1/4 window and the edge of the hatch. That's usually the first place that you will see evidence of chassis twisting. The paint will begin to show hairline cracks. You will need to look really carefully. Tim

Click on my www, there's pics there. All sheetmetal. The only 'glass on the car is the front bumper, rear spoiler and airdam. Tim

Dan, this is my first bodywork project.....learning as I go....if I can do it, then anyone can....even you!! Yes i have picked a color Tim

Thanks for the props! I'm going to be using modified stock tailights, bolted in from the inside. Eventually I will make up a set of LEDs for it. Tim

Trust me on this one: Get a new part. You will spend countless hours doing metal work and filler sanding to get it straight again after you weld. That cowl panel is very thin and flimsy, and because it's not flat (follows the raised lines of the hood) it is very difficult to sand, because you can't put any pressure on it. If it is not the exact same shape as it was before you worked it, it may look great, until you fit it back to the car, then it will be buckled. Oh, and did I mention...get a new (or good used) part!! Tim

Hammerite. Available at home depot. Will fit the bill for what you're looking for. Just make sure you get the smooth finish, not the hammer finish. Tim

Matt, Here you go. Sorry for the poor quality, but it's the best I could manage in a dark garage, holding up the hood with one hand. BTW, I used the side strip of cardboard froma pizza box to get the bends and lengths right. Enjoy, Tim Tim

I made the tastiest breakfast on Sunday Morning!! 4 eggs beaten with a dash of milk., then poured into the hot pan (like making an omelette). Then cover and cook until the eggs are firm underneath. (don't flip or fold). Then I put some salsa (with as little of the liquid as possible...use a fork to scoop), then some grated mozerella cheese, then some grated sausage and oregano. Pizza omelette!! I even used a pizza cutter wheel and cut into pizza slces on the cutting board, and served. Damn it was good!!! Tim

Who is the fat chick on the right supposed to be?

Well, I've spent over 18 months so far on getting the lines and panels perfect on the Z. I think I'm almost there. Just need to do some more work on the tail panel (already spent inexcess of 100 hours just on that) and block it all out ready for the paintbooth. Here are some pics; Shaved Cowl panel: Lots of work getting it straight again after the welding: Rear 1/4 panel (pillar emblems, fuel hatch, bumper recess and marker lights shaved), and spoiler molded into hatch: Headlight buckets shaved, market lights shaved: Passenger door....completely shaved (door handle, lock and mirror holes) Front end, with fiberglass bumper and custom mounts to make real close to fenders: Drip rails (or lack thereof) and pillar emblem (or lack thereof ): If you want to zoom in, here is the link to the album on Imagestation: http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4289856419&congratulation_page=Y Tim

If you do a search there was a multi page thread a while back on this very subject. I ordered and received mine earlier this year for the LT1Z MONGUUZ (had to spell it that way because of other similar plates already taken in CA) What is the significance? Think about the very unique diet of the Mongoose! Tim

We would have no traffic on HybridZ, then! Tim

You can get D-port block huggers...check around...Summit, PAW, Jegs etc. As for the wiring, don't waste your money on the painless or other aftermarket harness. They cost huge green, and it's not difficult to do it yourself. Buy the factory service manual and trace the wires. With my Z28 LT1 (1994), it ended up being about 10 wires (including gauges). Real easy, just takes time. Tim

When I bought my lengths of SS hose from Earls, I noticed how nice and clean the cuts were and I asked the guys what the best way to cut them were? He said: lay it on a piece of billet alluminum (I know, we all have some of that laying around ) and use a nice sharp 3 inch chisel and whack the chisel with a hammer through the tubing. I figure a nice piece of 1/4 inch aluminum plate (get a piece of off-cut from the steel yard) layed on top of a piece of 2x6 wood should do the trick. Tim

Take the block and heads to a machine shop and have them checked for cracks and pressure tested. Also have the block deck checked for trueness and the head surfaces too. It shouldn't cost very much to have this done...less than $100 in my area. If your block is cracked, get another from a JY, or let me know...I have a nice 4 bolt main '10' block (actually complete 350). Tim