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Tim240z

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Everything posted by Tim240z

  1. Just a wild guess, but since I pulled the galss out of my hatch to do bodywork, I think the glass weighs 80% of the glass/hatch combo, and I am not exaggerating. That hatch, even with the spoiler on it, is wayy light. I bet no more than 15 pounds. The glass is hellava heavy. If you want to save weight, leave the hatch and get rid of the glass (lexan etc). Tim
  2. no, no, no.....that just makes a mess Tim
  3. OK, I have my MegaSquirt and megastim boards complete. Everything seems to be ok. Here is the problem: When I put the jumper on the #12 and #13 pins to the processor slot (w/out the processor in place) and connect to the laptop and run "HyperTerminal" to check that the signal is going round and round, it works fine. However, when I plug the processor back in, and the stimulator, the Megasquirt PC software does not see the MS ( it does not show any data in the "Runtime" screen. I have gone through several scenarios and am very frustrated now!!! Anyone have any ideas!?? Thanks, Tim
  4. I remeber from mine that there are two little plastic tabs that fit between the actual caliper and the metal surround bracket. I hope that makes sense, but it may be that those little white tabs are missing. Tim
  5. Call http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/. They will have something, or recommend something good. Tim
  6. You can see mine in person if you like? I work in Chatsworth. Tim
  7. Mike, Why not just use you 240 control arms, and put the 280 hubs on it. Tim
  8. The relays will power: Horn Turn signals High beam Low beam Starter Fan Tail lights Brake lights Reverse lights (although I may not use reverse lights) Fuel pump Ignition 2 x extra (in case I want to add some stuff down the road). BTW, all the red wires going to the back side of the board were eventually wired to the fuse box. The output from the relays go to the blue connector pad (yellow wires). Tim
  9. Yup, as you probably know by now, there are two pics on my site. Tim
  10. Rookies! , I've been at it for 4 years now, don't even want to know what I've spent....could stand to count anymore after I hit $5000. But at least the bodywork part is 98% done. Taking my homemade Tri-Y full length header to Rewarder on Monday for high temp coating. I figure 2-3 more months. Hell, Pete spent what, 14 years on his Tim
  11. 700R4s are very sensitive to TV cable setup. If it's not set perfectly, the shift behaviour will be wrong. See here: http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/ If you want to rebuild it, get a kit from summit (some come with video instructions) and do it yourself. Auto trannys are not that complicated. If you want someone to do a HP rebuild, you're looking at about $7-800. If you just need a stock 'freshen up', then I think about $500. Tim
  12. Depends alot on the cam you're running. Do you know the specs. If you do, call one of the TC vendors and ask them what they would recommend. Tim
  13. Try this: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/torque-converter.htm
  14. Get a JY 2.8T engine and rebuild that if you really want, or just drop it in, or find a running ZXT and do the swap and junk the body afterwards. That's what I'm doing. Found a ZXt for $700 and I'm driving it around until I'm done with the V8 swap in the other Z, then I'll know that the drivetrain is good when I swap out the turbo engine. Tim
  15. Oh I disagree there....the VAST majority of 383 kits are externally balanced. The internally balanced kits are pretty pricey. Did you have the new damper balanced to the same balance as the old one? If not, that's likely your problem. Also, check that your exhaust isn't touching somewhere on the body (or close enought to touch when the engine twists. That can sometimes sound and feel like the same problem. Tim
  16. I agree that taking the car down to bare metal is not totally necessary, but is the best way. Using chemicals has some significant drawbacks, one of them being ruining any existing filler work. I did my entire car manually, except for very small parts that are hard to sand (like inspection hatch with vents). It does take a long time. It took me an entire day to do just the roof. I am going for a PERFECT body/paint though, so depends on what you are after. I also had 6, yes 1,2,3,4,5,6 layers of paint, so I had to. Be patient, and do yourself a favor, wear a dust mask! Tim
  17. Hey TBS, See here: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=23090&highlight=
  18. I ordered boxes of the common size metric nuts and bolts from http://www.mcmaster.com/ You may be able to find somewhere locally that sells bulk fasteners. Look in the yellow pages under fasteners, or hardware. Tim
  19. Just got off the phone with my machinist friend and he got to talking about the heads that he is designing and 'pouring' for the for 2.3 liter (midget racing engines). Well that perked my interest and, long story short, he can design and make cross flow heads for the L-6. Although he hasn't done a L-6 head specifically, he said that he could definitely do it. Obviously the mold making process is the most expensive and time consuming, but, like a fiberglass mold, once you have it, it becomes 'assembly line' to produce the heads. He can also powdercoat, etc, etc. What would be the interest? I pushed him for cost, and he reluctantly said in the $2G to $2.2G range per unit, complete. Obviously this depends on many variable, the main one being the size of the initial order. Not sure how this compares to a Sunbelt et. al. prepped head cost, but we're also talking aplles and fillet mignon. Also, this will obviously be a fairly lengthy process (not off the shelf and in the mail tomorrow), and depending on the start date of work, would be done in 2004. He also has a very good flowbench (made it himself), so flow numbers will be available with delivery. Let me know. Tim
  20. Well done man, looks like you found a nice one! Time to hit the junk yards to complete your interior.... Tim
  21. My MS is almost ready. Anyone done this already and can give some pointers? Can I just get some JY connectors for the injectors and TPS, and just unplug the OEM ones and leave them hanging? Will this cause the OEM computer (which will obviously be controlling spark) to have a hissy fit? Anyone have some fuel tables? Thanks, Tim
  22. damn Mudge....where you been dude!
  23. It would really help if you put your location in your profile so that it shows under your nake to the left of your post. For big items like this, it's pointless for someone to respond if they are in CA and you're in FL, or vice versa. Tim
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