Tim240z

Everything should bolt up. You will have to tackle the following: Pulley system for the LT1 (AC cannot be used in OEM position) New radiator hoses New fuel pump and lines Wiring in the LT1 PCM Driveshaft should fit ok. That's all that I can think of. Tim

Sounds great Scott!! R U gonna dyno it when you are boosting @ 12? Tim

Take all the personal bashing offline please fellas. This is between Mike and Juan. Tim

Richard, Do you know what the common use for that foam is? I looked at my local HD today and couldn't find it, but I had my 3 year old son in tow, so it wasn't easy. Which department would it be in? Thanks, Tim

Do one side at a time and support the length of the car with some 2x4s and jack stands...as many as you can until the frame rail is at least tacked in a dozen or so places. When I had mine on it's side on the rotisserie, I supported the car in the center with a jack on the rocker panel. Once you have on side completed, the second side is not as critical because you have the support of the first sub frame connector. I don't envy you doing this with the car horizontal. It's a lot of welding, even from the side it was a big job. Use a good welder's apron, cap and gloves and wear a full face welding mask. Hot pieces of flux/metal is no fun on the skin. Once you have the frame rail fabbed up and ready for welding onto the car, you can put the stands under that and rest the car on the frame rail. If you want to talk about this when you're ready to go, PM and I'll give you my phone number. Tim

Looks fantastic!! One comment, though. Dark colors tend to absorb heat (like the difference between wearing a white t-shirt or a black t-shirt on a sunny day). A very light, or even white, would have been a bit better, but the difference in performance is not likely to out weigh the cosmetic value. Great job. Tim

YCiS, yes, do it now, while it's easy. It'll be a lot more work if you come to your senses and decide to do it later. BTW.... I used 2 x 3 x .086 tubing to do mine. There are a couple of pics (on my www below) of my subframes taken while the car was on it's side, on the rotisserie. Tim

Why not the GTV6 3.0? The performance difference was (is) substantial, way more than the sum of the parts, or the difference in displacement. I'd forgotten about those.....very nice cars, and take a sbc conversion very well. My dad did that very conversion 20+ years ago and someone in Germany bought it, and it is still running around (confirmed). Tim

Can any of you guys give any tips on constructing the MS hardware? Any points in the process tolook out for? Any specific tools that would make life easier? (I assume a soldering iron and solder?) I have the box full of a million individual bags of electronic parts, and I have never tackled anything this 'sensitive' before.... Any help/advice would be very much appreciated! Thanx, Tim

Richard, Could you explain the process a little, like what you use to coat the foam to seal it prior to adding resin and 'glass. Thanks, Tim

Ha ha ha ha ha With a list like that, John, I bet you like the Renault 5, and all the old Citroens with hydraulic steering and suspensions!! ha ha sorry...couldn't resist...I've driven them ha ha ha Tim

I just received all the parts for my MegaSquirt unit from DigiKey (holy cow...lots of little things to put together ) and also got this email from Digikey: FYI Tim

Just do it yourself. It's not too hard. Tim

No clearance problems on the S&S units listed above, apart from that mentioned. Tim

Yeah, and if you're lucky you'll get there for the 10 or so days out of the year that the sun actually shines!!! Trust me I know... I used to live there....$H!T place to live IMHO!!!!! Tim

Nah...that's what your LAP is for "is this thing 4 or 5 speed stick?" ha ha ha Tim

I believe that the major drawback to the S&S headers are that the pasenger side collector hangs wayyyy low. Tim

ROTFLMAO!!!!!!!! Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ... Love it Dave!! maybe he should pick on someone his own speed.....maybe a Honda or something!! Tim

I got a quote from Rewarder Headers (who will be doing the coating for me), and they quoted $800 for setup and then about $350 per set. I posted this before and not enough folks were interested to make the price worth it (to split up the setup fee). Tim

I made my own "Tri-Y" headers for my LT1 240Z. Steering clearance is cool. Tubes are: 1 3/4 into 2 1/4 into 3". Pics on my site. Still need to get them high temp coated. Tim

Either your heads are warped, or you have a cracked block or head. the white smoke is burning coolant....probably has a sickly sweet smell too? Tim

Update: Just got an email from DigiKey, my order shipped today. I will say that I am VERY impressed with the customer service at DigiKey, they have kept me updated every step of the way concerning my back ordered parts. Tim

Loose the wipers!! Sweet man...can't wait for the pics!! Tim

I have done ALL my welding with my Chicago Electric welder that is very similar to that one. All flux core, and mine only has 4 amp setting too. The 4 setting thing is a little restrictive, but I have had no problems at all. The only real difference is mine is 230 volt. Seems like a decent price. Check out harborfreight.com and compare prices for similar equipement. The ebay seller has a bunch of good feedback, so looks legit! I say go for it. I don't think that you'll find anything much cheaper....just see what shipping is going to cost you.....harbor freight will usually ship for free with orders over $50. Tim

click on the 'x' in the right hand corner of the post. Next to the edit and quote buttons. Tim