Tim240z

Thanks Norm. Can I assume that the inlet and exhaust systems were identical on both engines? That is surprising that the differences are so slight. So maybe I'm better off just pulling the spare head off the other 2.4, port it a bit and get a cam? Tim

Cool smackdown!! Here is some info: In the Acura tradition of precise, purposeful engineering, the RSX and RSX Type-S were designed with the driving enthusiast in mind. Drawing upon a powerful 160-hp, 2.0-liter engine with the technologically advanced i-VTECâ„¢ system, razor-sharp handling, agile steering and suspension, class-leading aerodynamics and state-of-the-art safety and control systems, the RSX is a force to be reckoned with. The RSX Type-S pushes the performance envelope even further with a potent 200-hp, 2.0-liter, DOHC, i-VTEC engine and an exclusive short-throw 6-speed manual transmission.

Mike, Thanks for the quick reply. I don't have a 2.8 yet. If I was to go this route, can you recommend an appropriate year to pull from? Aren't the valves in the 2.4 head smaller, and thus a restriction point on the 2.8? Thanks, Tim

Quick poll: HP difference (real life) between 2.4 and 2.8. Is it worth the effort changing my 2.4 in my daily driver to 2.8? I have dual down draft webers on my 2.4 and would transfer them over to the 2.8 (if I went that way). Nothing wrong with my 2.4 (runs like a top), just a bit lazy. Would like a little more......(or maybe I should just wait for the LT1 Z to be finished to get my power fix from) Tim BTW, I have a second, complete 2.4 in the garage. Should I use those rods on teh 2.8?

My 2c worth: Go with the coilovers. Since you are plannning major mods down the road, the coilovers will give you the flexibility to change spring rates and ride height. For instance, if you are planning a longer trip in the car, you can go a little softer on the springs. Then for tearing around town, go a little stiffer. I wouldn't think that it would take you more than an hour or so to change springs at all four corners if you want to increase/decrease rates. Tim

Jeff, That's amazing. You got almost 100% of that dang undercoating off. Thanks for the info. Tim

Keith, If you're not worried about economy, Holley double pumper is the way to go. Have one on my 71 Cheyenne and love it (750 double pumper). Although I have no experience with them, the new Edelbrock carbies are supposedly very nice and easy to tune. HTH, Tim ps...nothing wrong with Q-jets. If set up right, they will perform with the rest.

I have emailed the design to the company that as done a bunch of promotional items for me before (Company related stuff...embroidered shirts and jackets etc). I should get word on $$$ from them Monday or Tuesday. I will likely have quite a few made as they get cheaper the more you order. Tim

I have a set from my 73 Hybrid Conversion. I won't be running windshied wiper, so let me know exactly which parts you need. Tim

Z-GAD, Yeah I agree. I have the ZX rad. in my 240, and I am very paranoid about knocking the drain **** off on one of those parking barriers. Maybe one day I will make a bolt on guard Tim

Terry, Thanks for the write up...very informative. Any reccomendations on fiberglass books *since to suggest reading one first*? Thanks, Tim

I have 205/60-15s on my 240 and the speedo reads 10 mph low. I have also put a 5 speed gearbox in so I don't know if that is having any effect. Tim

I'll be short and sweet here: 205/50 will be a little small (profile), but doable. I run Falkens EXCLUSIVELY on my car and My Wife's Volvo 850!PERIOD! I have worked (in the past) for a tire shop (4 years) and these are the best tyres I have found (factors: wear, grip {wet&Dry}, price, road noise etc). Several magazines have backed this up. There are better tires, but the cost is SIGNIFICANTLY higher, and the performance only marginally better. They have a very high natural rubber content (compared to most that use high amounts of synthetic)blah blah blah........ Tim WARNING: WATCH OUT FOR THEM WHILE THEY ARE NEW> THE NATURAL OILS SEEP OUT OF THE RUBBER DURING SHELF STORAGE AND MAKE THEM SLICK>give them 100 miles or so to "bed in"

Front of the inlet manifold by the thermostat. TIm

MSA sells them. maybe their 'non-existent' assistance line can provide you with a part number. Tim

Teo, Unless you can pick it up, don't get it from MSA, just get one from your local parts store (alignment tool). Larry....I stand corrected Tim

U da MAN Thanx, Tim

Terry, Would you mind sending that .doc to me too....PLeeeeeeeeeeeeeeze Thanks, Tim I'll drop you an email so you can have easy access to my address.

If I cut and paste the URL, I still don't see a pic. Problem on the Image station side I think? Tim

Just get the job done as efficiently as possible , but NEVER force the input shaft...you'll hurt something! "Wham-Bamm, Thank you, Mam" Tim

TZ, I must protest here!! I must , I must I would never use bolts to pull the gearbox to the block. Too much chance of damaging something by lining it up skew. If the clutch plate is aligned, then the input shaft should just slide home smoothly and allow the use of the normal bolts. The Datsun Gearboxes aren't heavy, so it's easy. Just food for thought..... Tim

For a V8, if your headers go 8 into 1, you will find the high pitched *scream* reminiscent of the Ferraris. Not very practical for a Z though. Tim

OK, Lets put this whole discussion to bed: Take the engine out and drop a V8 in. End of story Tim (ps..Don't flame me...just trying to interject a bit of levity here) Tim

Anyone got a Mass Airflow sensor for a '94 LT1 that they can let go for cheap. I want to confirm that mine has actually gone south, but definitely don't want to pay the $$$ for a new one. I may end up just leaving it as speed density just for the more sanitary plumbing, but don't know what the performance/driveability ramifications are. Thanks, Tim

You can swap it out without pulling the engine. If you want to pull the engine/tranny combo, you can leave the intake and exhaust manifolds inplace. To pull the tranny: Take off the drive shaft. You'll probably have to drop the exhaust (depending on the routing) Unbolt the clutch slave and put it out of the way (don't let it hang by the fluid line) Take off the shifter. Unplug the reverse light wires from the gearbox (pass. side) Unbolt the 5 or six bolts on the bellhousing to block unbolt the tranny crossmember (support the gearbox with a jack first) pull it out. Reverse the process for the new gearbox installation. You might as well replace the clutch and pressure plate while everything is open. Hope this helps, Tim