Tim240z

Owen started it, SuperDan took it over...that's as far as I know. the 'Mods' can likely give actual details and dates. Tim

Without the knock sensor and O2 sensors plugged in? I'm pretty close to firing the thing, but the knock sensor was damaged when I tried to install a set of blockhuggers without noticing that as I was tightening the bolts, it was pushing against the sensor . I haven't ordered my O2 bungs yet, so no O2 sensors right now. Thanks, Tim

TZ, What's this roll lock disk thingy that you are talking about. I'm not familiar with this term....maybe I just know it by a different name. Tim

Pete, Yes I have it in the car now and it fits great! Nice and tight and tucked away. I just need to weld on the collector flanges and the O2 sensor bungs Tim

Arif, After having another look at the results U posted, I noticed that the rear toe is more than 1/2 a degree different from side to side. This is a little troubling. It might not be that the chassis is "bent", rather just not completely straight after so many years on the road, or something on your suspension is slightly bent. Try the bodyshop route if you can have someone give you a decent price to check for you. (most don't want to hassle with such old cars). It is almost a moot point though. If you have some extra cash, get some adjustable rear control arms from Mike K., that way you can adjust camber and toe. Tim

Damn!!!I've been huntin everywhere for a place that will sell nut and bolts by the pound. Anyone know of a place in the SoCal (LA) area?PLEEEEZZZZEE Tim

Depending on where the seats begin to flare, it could well be possible. I would suggest getting one seat first and mounting it, then weld in your roll cage around it...that's what I did. The clearances are very tight:less than a finger width between seat and tunnel and between seat and bar. Tim

Mike, The platform is the S&S headers that didn't fit in the first place because the collectors were completely in the wrong places (driver's side pointed directly into the slave boss on the T56 and the pass. side into the subframe connector...not even near close enough to just 'bend' a bit to fit). Tim

If your car is any lower than stock the camber will be more negative than stock. I am assuming that the first line is the camber and the second is toe. You would have to get camber plates or slot the 3 holes at the strut tower if you want to bring the camber more positive. Tim

I have a 350, 4 bolt main '010' block. Came out of my truck and runs well. Been sitting for a while, but is complete. let me know if you're interested. Have a TH400 too. Tim

So I just built my own. Man what a lot of work. . I think my welding this weekend increased the Statewide ambient temperature by at least 2 degrees!!! Anyways, since I could not find a set of headers that I liked (didn't want to go the shorty blockhugger route), I welded up a set of "Tri Ys". Not my best work by any means (limited to a hacksaw, 4" grinder and oxy/acet welder), and I was working with some pipe that had been laying around for a while, and some new pieces. The lowdown is: 1.75" primaries into 2.25" secondaries (2 x: 2 into 1) and the 2 x 2.25" secondaries into 3" collector. They'll obviously look a lot better once they're sand blasted and painted. Here are a couple of pics: Odd bank Even Bank Clearance for the plugs are good, and the exhaust is not the lowest part of the car. (main problem with the S&S headers on the pass. side) Tim

Russ, Have a word with those guys and see if they can bring something in for you. They will obviously tack a markup onto the price, but if they have a whole container of stuff coming in you will likely save a BUNCH on freight, and as a dealer they will get a price break, so all in all, you may get the package cheaper than bringing it in yourself. Worth a phone call at least. Tim

Russ, Isn't there anyone locally that can supply V8 stuff for you. There are enough American muscle cars running around over there that I would imagine someone must have set up an agency for V8 parts? Tim

The motor must be from the same year or newer and retain all the smog equipment supplied with that engine. Also the engine must from the same family of vehicles...that is, a car must get an engine from a car, a light truck must get an engine from a light truck etc, etc. The ONLY difference with pre-1974 vehicles is that they don't have to get smog tested, but are technically subject to the same rules as stated above. Tim

Dominic, When I'm sitting in the seat, the door brace is above my elbow, so I think that it is high enough, but the main reason I didn't make it any higher was so that access in and out of the car was no worse than it had to be. As it is, it is quite a manuever to get in and out, luckily this won't be a daily driver (I think). The Clubman seats are very comfortable, even for my wife (for reasons I would never put into words ). Terry, Actually you would be amazed at how many sharpies I go through....I buy them by the box now!! Tim

Keith, That's some cool a$$ stuff there!!! Well done!!! Tim

Russ, Where are you in the UK? My Mom is in Southampton, I just got back from there a couple of months ago (on holiday for 3 weeks). I lived in Kenilworth (West Midlands) for 2 years, and when I was just back there I remembered why I moved (bloody awful weather) Tim

Dominic, I installed both items you refer to. 8 point S&W and Corbeau Clubman seats. I had to change the horizontal bar behind the seats to be further back, but the door braces fit ok. Tim (ps pics on my site)

Front downforce Tim

OOHHH Dang, Lone.....I think Van wanted to keep this under wraps....maybe you should pull the pics until he gives a Tim

Tom is correct. Pre-1974 vehicles are exempt from smog testing NOT exempt from smog equipment. It is illegal to tamper with, disable or remove any equipment on the engine which effects emissions. I believe that it is a Federal offense, not just a State one. Tim

I got Dremel's big Daddy

Dude, I think you need to make a trip down to the South Bay!! I'm near LAX. Tim

Easiest way I can think of is to do a plug cut and remove and inspect the plugs, or just take it to a shop that has an exhaust gas analyzer (best way). Tim

Pete, It seems then, that the kill switch doesn't truely kill 'ALL' the vehicles electrical systems. Does this not defeat the purpose of a kill switch, or is the way you have it wired accomplish the same thing. Tim