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Tim240z

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Everything posted by Tim240z

  1. Do a search on handling. There was a post several months ago (very detailed) which should answer all your questions. Short answer is: If done correctly, the handling turns out much better...such is the concensus. Tim
  2. BTW, I no longer need this driveshaft (solid one), so I would be more than willing to "loan" it out. It is 27 inches long (from the base of the splines - where it meets the u-joint housing to the mating face of the diff side flange). It would likely work with other diffs (providing the length works) even though the flange won't bolt up, it will give a very good idea by looking at the gap between the driveshaft flange and the diff flange. Obviously shipping from and back to me would be on y'all. Thought I would put it out there. Tim
  3. As long as the tubing is in good condition (not cracking or perishing) and is routed away from heat and is secure and not chaffing on anything, there's nutin' wrong with that. Just make sure it has support at least every couple of feet ('P' clamps or something). Tim
  4. Don't know about the programmers, but I have it on good authority that LT1 Edit and Tunercat are very good and easy to use, with the upper hand going to Tunercat because LT1 Edit cannot delete the AC functions. Check out LT1edit.com Tim Just to validate my statement, I have used neither, but plan to use tunercat's software.
  5. Phantom: Here's the answer: $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ Much cheaper to mass produce cast iron headers.
  6. TZ,No such thing in So. Cal., that's why i cut mine off Tim
  7. Steve, That is beautiful!!! How does it sound? About the shaft...if you have a helper and engine leveler, then just pull the engine and let your helper support the shaft, and vice versa. Tim BTW...why are you pulling the motor?
  8. Jay, That's interesting because I remember reading the footnote on those headers that they won't fit angle plug heads? Do they give you adequate clearance for the plugs/plug wires? If that's the case, then i'm sold!!! I'm tired of the header issue now and am willing to settle for "less than ideal" at this point. Thanks, Tim
  9. Yeah SleeperZ, they get you hooked on their service, and after uploading all your stuff they change the rules on you to get you to pay up....bastards!!! Tim
  10. Terry, The solid driveshaft is for one time alignment use. I can actually throw it away now if I wanted to. Not sure if you thought I was actually going to run it that way....not a good idea I think. Tim
  11. Well, I got my solid driveshaft on Friday, and got to work on Sat. Morning. I was horrified to see how far out the gearbox and R230 were (the Driveshaft is straight to .08"). Well, needless to say I had to modify the tranny mount and basically start over on the diff mount, but all is done, and although I couldn't get the alignment 100%, it is only a ball hair out, probably straighter than any OEM setup. Pics were uploaded this morning. Sorry to say that FreeServers won't allow image linking, so you'll hafta go to the page if you want to see. I should have my adapters this week (maybe tomorrow), then I can measure and order my sideshafts . Pics page Tim
  12. Rick, Just my opinion, but if you consider that the heavy factory dash is $800+ and prtofession recover of an existing dash is around the same price, I think this is a bargain. I plan to get the fiberglass dash, only because after I paint it (I don't want the plain CF look.....bit too ricey) the CF look will be lost. Just my 2c. Tim
  13. Eddie, I actually have a brand new set of those Summit headers, but I decided against such a small primary and the plug clearance is too tight. When I say I want 'budget' headers, I just don't want to spend more than my engine cost on a set. Tim
  14. ZR8ed, I saw (as did John C. Owen, Dave etc) that GTO in real life. It was at the car show on the day that I had the adios BBQ for Dave. Anyway, all that stuff is fake...the gauges are paper, the shift lights are bogus and even the power bulge on the hood is just a piece of plastic. Also there was one of the F&F Hondus...the wing and all the 'add on' stuff was all just cheap looking pastic (really cheap looking). Quite amazing how bogus the movies actually are.... I bet all those Ferraris were just Fieros with kits. ha ha ha. Tim
  15. Igor, Need a bit more info on your SKILLZ. Can you fab stuff, do you have power tools, welders etc. If you can fab stuff, then all I would buy from the JTR kit are the setback plates and spacers for the motor mounts. Depending on the smog testing requirements in your area, get a model that is exempt. Check the floors and frame rails and under the battery tray for rust especially. LT1 V8s are good performers and can be had for around $1000 to $1500 if you keep looking. Check ebay and the classifieds. T56 or 4sp Auto...depending on your preference, but auto may be cheaper and easier to install. Remember all the little things like: Driveshaft, Exhaust brakes belts hoses nuts, bolts, wiring and so on and so on. You will have to be VERY frugal and make alot of the stuff yourself and look for very good deals to stay within your budget, but it is possible. Tim
  16. Try just tightening the screw that holds the little ball joint. If it's worn too much and you can't tighten it any more, take the ball part out an dspread a layer of silicon on it, let it dry and put back together. Tim
  17. ehhh Lone: That's OK, I missed it the first time I read it too! Tim
  18. Could also be fuel percolation/vapor lock. With a fuel tank full, the fuel is likely staying cool enough (I'm assuming this is a FI stock I6), but when it's hot the underhood temps are heating up the fuel lines. Try (if the above suggestions don't work), either rerouting your lines away from the heat or wrapping them in heat shielding. Shot in the dark, but something to think about. Tim
  19. DAW, I think it was MARK who was having a problem with the inward migration of the shaft popping the CV endplate out on the inner CV. He fixed it by simply putting in a steel plate I believe. Tim
  20. I really enjoyed it, but then again I'm one of the few who will say outloud that I enjoyed Fast and Furious (I don't look at action movies as documentaries, so I don't worry about the corny'ness or inaccuracies)..... XXX was very James Bond'esque, lots of very far fetched stunts and cool 'toys', ala 'M'. Great mindless entertainment. BTW, has anyone else noted that the volume (soundtrack) in theaters these days is painfully high.....do they feel that the high volume level will mask the terrible acoustics? Next time ear plugs are in order I think.
  21. Eddie, Yes I did. I don't know about the Vortec heads for plug clearance, but I'm running them on my truck, so if you want I can eyeball it this weekend? Tim
  22. Don't have a R200 to compare, but the flange is certainly different and i would imagine the length too. I measured for my dummy shaft (the solid one) and it came to 29 inches from the output shaft of the gearbox to the face of the diff flange. I am making the shaft 28 inches long. If you have a look on my site, there is a picture of the R180 side by side with the R230. HTH. Tim
  23. John, you crack me up man!!!! Does you wife know you're talking about her butt like that?!! Tim
  24. Dude, just let it go...there's no need to keep feeding the situation.
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