Tim240z

Jeremy, The sideshafts are going to be brand new for about $120 each ($240). A new driveshaft is about $180 or so. The front mount is fairly easy to make (just very time consuming). The R200 mustache bar needs a very low speed drill press to be drilled ( I took mine to a local shop who did it for free). I got my adapters for the cost of materials only, but your guess is pretty close. I have priced diffs locally for $250 and a pair of half shafts for $150. i am currently pursuing CVs without the shafts. Will keep you all up to date. Tim

Thure, The diff has bushings in the mounting 'ears' and a rubber/steel washer for the top (very similar to the ones that the mustache bar uses. Tim

Is the whole car shaking or the steering wheel. Check the wheel balance, maybe you threw a weight. If the steering wheel is shaking, then it's the fronts, if the whole car, then the rears. Does it go away at higher than 50MPH? Wheels should be rebalanced at least every 10k miles. Tim

Doug, I have a pic on my old Yahoo site, see if it's the same: pics Tim

I can be found any weekend wrenching in my garage. Stop by anytime (I live near LAX). Anytime you guys want to have a get together, let me know and we can organize something. Tim

Where you at Jim?

Got my adapters today..... They came out REALLY nicely, the picture doesn't do them justice...the tollerances are VERY tight, and even without the bolts in it, I can't move it around by hand. Here is the picture (also my new Serp. belt pulley system) Sorry for not posting directly here, but Freeservers will no longer allow image linking. Also, sorry about all the pop-ups Tim

Oltmann, I usually post something in the announcements section. If you do a search for "BBQ", you'll see the results from the last ones. By the way, Here are pics of the pulleys. Tim

I have helped several guys from this board already (both hybrid and non-hybrid Zs), and would always be willing to help someone out who is travelling...good idea, Denny. Tim

By RickS: AMEN TO THAT!! that's exactly why I'm not even going to bother putting a stereo in the V8 Z. But when I'm driving the Inline 6....nothing beats AC/DC "Back In Black"!!! Tim

Oltmann, Dude, you're in Mission Viejo? Man, that's just down the road...we should hook up, or you should come to the next gathering at my place. Here is the part number for the belt: Brand: Gates Part#: K060598 Size: 21mm x 1535mm Apparently this one is 3 inches shorter than the OE Z28 belt (so says parts man), and there is one that is inbetween these two in length (about 1" or so longer than the shorter one), but I feel that the shorter the better. I'll post some pics later today. Tim BTW, in hindsight, I could have just used the wheel from the OE idler pulley instead of the Ford unit, but since I had it already I decided to keep the OE one intact...just incase. If I really felt ambitious, I could probably mount the OE idler in place of the P/S pump 'pulley', but would mean some fairly significant bracketry fabrication and the benefits just don't outweigh the work involved IMO.

The only things I would add to Mike's excellent list of toys are a vise grip, some 22gauge stainless or galvanized wire, spare belts and some cold shrink tape (for blown hoses...temp repair) and some silicon sealant, and although I hate to use it, some 'fix-a-flat', since I won't be carrying a spare tire (carrying fuel in its place ). Tim

SS, It's not really a matter of HP, but rather a matter of how hard you try to put it (HP) to the ground. I would imagine a R180 would last 'forever' if you were putting 600hp down but not launching hard. If you go easy, it will last. You could break it with 200hp by dropping the clutch hard on launches. HTH Tim

Oltmann, I pulled the P/S pump and removed the little plates in the vanes, so it will no longer 'pump'. I then put it back to the stock location, so it now acting as a idler pulley. (not ideal I know, but I can't think of any reason why it shouldn't last....I'll putsome oil in it to keep the bearings lubed and cool). Then I took off the stock idler pulley, and got another pulley (just the wheel and bearing) from a Ford (sigh) , from the JY and made a bracket and mounted it below the Alternator. This one can adjust and although not 'spring loaded' like the stock one, there is plenty of adjustment room. The belt is one size shorter than the stock Z28 one (I have the part numbers if interested). The setup looks OE and should work well. I can post some pics if you like. Tim

Although small ones, I won 2 battles today that have been weighing on my mind for a while now. 1. Solved the serpentine pulley problem (not running P/S or A/C). The solution was simpler than I could have imagined. 2. Found some standard hoses for the radiator to water pump. I was afraid that I would be reduced to using 'flex hosing' which just doesn't look that great IMO. Things are coming along nicely now. My new headers will arrive next week and my R230 half adapters will be ready on Monday. Now just to get fuel lines and brake lines done, edit the PCM and......"Fire in the Hole!!" Not a very exciting post to be sure, but I am pumped...after all the setbacks...things are going my way for a change. Tim

Lone, I was thinking sharp spinning blades on the wheels ala Derath Race 2000!!! Tim

I have ordered a set of headers (custom made) from a guy who made them for a 350 sbc into a Jag XJS. They look very promising....1 3/4 primaries, 2 1/2 collector. They do fit, according to the guy, angle plugs and fit tight to the block. The 'D' shape port is still a problem, but not insurmountable. I should have them early next week. I will let you guys know if and how the fit. He said I can send them back if I'm not satisfied, so I'll only be out the shipping charges. Tim

Pete, Thanks for the info. I called Marty at that shop this morning (05h30 PST). He had no details to provide but will research and I will get back to him in 3 hours. I will let y'all know what I find out. I told him that there were quite a few guys that would be interested, so he is definitely trying for the extra business. Tim

Mark, At this point all I have access to is used (ie JY) pieces. I am working on something though. Not absolutely sure yet so I don't want to 'let the cat out of the bag', but I will let you know as soon as I have some firm info. You can get rebuild units, but again, only as a complete halfshaft....such a waste. Tim

Grog, Try McMasterCarr.com Tim

You got it to a Tee!!!!! Let me just add one more point: These same "Morons" feel is absolutely necessary to drive right at the speed limit in the 'fast' lane, even though the other lanes are empty. Pisses me off no end!!! Unfortunately, I am usually in the Company car with Logos on it, so I can't get too agressive, but when I'm in the Z, or even better, in my 71 truck....Whooh Baby....Look out!!!! Tim

Jeremy, I mounted my ECM with a bungy cord on a pad of rubber (doormat type with the holes in it) on the tunnel, just forward of where the stock fuse block would mount. Although it sounds hokey, it actually works very well. (can take pics if at all interested). As for the T56 mount....your's may still work. I made mine to mount to a 200 4R originally, and found that the T56 mount was in the exact same location. I have a feeling the 700R4 is the same too, so you may get away with it. Tim

Cyrus, Not doing LS1 (LT1), but as for T56 mount, the one I made up for mine leaves a goodly amount of room for exhaust routing. Just a idea if you have the equipment to fab one, or something similar. I found it to be a better design (space wise at least) than the JTR mount. Here are some pics. Tim

Chevy Orange, Baby...or maybe candy Apple Red Tim

Mike, Big hammer and lots of patience. I tried for hours to pull it apart, thinking I was missing a key element in my thought process (happens frequently). I took it to the local shop and he just did exactly what I was doing .... smacking it with a hammer...only difference is, it came apart for him!! What needs to happen is the clip on the end of the shaft needs to get compressed and slide inside the splines on the CV. Mine just broke off the splines at the tip of the shaft. On the other hand (unless you are going a different route than the rest of us), there is no reason to pull it apart. The shaft and the outer CV can get tossed. A shame I know, but...... General update: My adapters will be done this weekend, at which point I will have Speedway make the sideshafts. I will have them keep measurements and specs, at which point you guys can just call and order a set if you want. Tim