Tim240z

Jeff, I bought some a while back and if memory serves me, they are 12 x 1.25. Might be wrong, but I will check this evening if no one pipes up further. Tim

Miles, You're back!! For good...or just temporarily? Tim BTW, My 73 also has the wires for such an application, but I have never connected them. They are right next to the reverse light switch on my 5 speed (which should be the same on the 4 speed). Pete: I kinda disagree with your opinion on always having such a safety switch. I have never had this function before and am in the habit of shaking the gearlever in neutral before even putting the key in the ignition. I find the clutch switch a PITA, especially when starting the car when tuning by sticking my arm through the window. It seems to me that if one doesn't have the presence of mind to check the gear before starting, then drive an auto .....just an opinion though... Tim

Ron, Lowering the car will likely cause toe out. Best to get it aligned properly at a shop, but you could string the car (a piece of tube at the front and rear of the car with string running along each side of the car from tube to tube). This way you can measure from the rear of the front rim to the string and from the front of the rim to the string to get a basic toe measurement. Obviously the string must be equadistant from the left and right sides of the car. Hope this makes sense. Tim

Just for perspective, I got mine with all accessories, harness, ecm, and driveshaft (from a 94 Z28 w/ T56) for $1400.00, but I heard it run and pulled it myself (with Dave). Tim

I've seen several complanies that offer a coating very similar to (IF NOT THE SAME) as truck bed liners (spray on). Might be worth a try. As for the local purchase stuff, forget about it if you want longevity. Look into the industrial stuff like what they use to coat hazardous waste containment areas and man hole access holes. The stuff is very expensive, but holds up to acids, petrochemicals and traffic (like hot tires when you pull in a car). If you need some links let me know and I will try to find the ones we used in our containment berms. Tim

I usually just buy the Big Block wire kit 'cause it is longer than the SB kit. That way the length of the wires are just about perfect. I've always found the SBC kits to be too short. Tim

Here one that was on ebay. Eric, if you don't have thesepics you might want to grab them quick. here's the auction Tim

Hey TZ...yup I'm back....glad to be too. I counted almost 50 hours on my ass in a plane seat!!! No Fun!! But I did come home with a MOMO 'Champion' Steering wheel and MOMO carbon fiber shifter knob (and a Goodyear Racing "Competitors ONLY" jacket)!!! Whoo Hoo! Now if I can actually finish this car I can use them!! Tim No worries about the parts...whenever you're ready man.

Ha Ha ...no comment!

Nemeziz, Try hammerite. It also has excellent rust adhesion/sealing properties and comes in aerosol cans, or can be brushed on. It will hold up to some heat, but if your exhausts aren't coated or wrapped it will surely damage and paint nearby. Tim

Eric, I very much agree with your thoughts on Pierre's show car. Although the work was done with a fantastic finish/concept, it does leave the eye wanting a bit more. Perhaps if the licence plate was frenched a little deeper or something? As I know that you have seen the look I'm busy with, you will have noticed that my approach (maybe not because I am very clever, rather just by happenstance) is to keep the stock lights and change the rear treatment by completely replacing the rear panel over the tailights. This was not because there was any damage to the OE panel, but rather as experimentation in bodywork, since I have had very little experience in that arena. "In for a penny, in for a pound" is my motto here. I hope it turns out OK because after hacking out the original panel, there's no going back now. I hope to have the rear completed and at least in primer within the next couple of months so it will be a bit easier to visualize the finished product, rather than the bare metal that is now there. Since 'freeservers' have just stopped allowing image linking unless you pay (seems a bit counter to their name) I can't show my progress here, but I will update my site as needed. Tim

I always really liked the old firebird tail light treatment, and that is what I am modelling my Z's rear end treatment on. Not even close to finished, and will eventually (!) fabricate LED lights instead of the stock ones. OK freeservers now really sucks and won't support image links. Check out the bodywork page on my site if you want to see. Tim

Dude, you have the worst luck of anyone I know!! Did you find the problem? Was a main bearing that 'picked up'? More importantly, did you find the reason it picked up? Tim

Jay, You're going to have a few issues to sort out. 1. accessory/belt placement. If you plan to use the A/C and P/S, then space is a consideration, and if you plan to delete the A/C and P/S, then belt routing is the issue. 2. The wiring. You have 3 options. You can buy the painless kit (big$$$), send your harness to be sorted, or wire it yourself. In any event, you should spring the $$ for the factory service manual (around $100). Other than that, follow the JTR book. Tim

Jasonfen, I was born and raised here, and am out here visiting family. Things are a lot better than when I left (4 years ago), post elections. I agree its a beautiful country and with the 10:1 exchange rate, it is even better. Tim

Hi all, Just arrived in South Africa this Morning. After 13 hours on a plane from London, I am ready for some rest. I am going to need to go back to work to have a vacation from this vacation!! Anyway, here's the question I have: Since I obviously don't have access to my Z, could someone please provide me with the spline count and diameter of the steering shaft (where the steering wheel slides on). my Dad has a Beautiful MOMO steering wheel from one of his 'old' racing cars that he has given me and he says it will fit the Skyline steering shaft. Is this the same as the Z's? Thanks Guys...I am going to take it anyway, but curious about the hub fitting or not. Tim

Yeah, Like Mark said. It is most likely the result of the neg. camber, esp. if your springs are sagging, which will increase the wear on the inner section of the tread. It is a symptom that many (dare I say all) IRS vehicles have. Next time you see a BMW or Mercedes, have a look at the wear pattern, it will be worn more on the inside. If the tyres are wearing VERY quickly, then they are toe-ing out too much, which excessive toe (in or out) will wear tyres much, much quicker than camber, because the tyres are constantly being 'scrubbed'. TIm

Hey if you're only selling it for a buck, Hell, I'll buy it!!! Tim

Sic 'em John.

Hey Owen, 6% commission applies!! (JK) Tim

Jeromio, My manual for my Harbor Freight 'special' claims that with the correct tip (larger ID because Al expands more/quicker than steel wire) and a pure argon shielding gas, aluminum welding is possible. I have't tried to do it, but that's what it claims, also pure argon shielding gas can be used with steel welding, it's just more expensive. Tim

Longg, I am using the T56 with the LT1 and apart from cutting the oem cross member out, I didn't do any pounding. Also keep in mind that my project started out with a 700R4, then a 200 4R, now finally a T56. All fit withouts fits o' pounding. Tim

Actually Boss Hoss makes one with a 502 in it!! Tim

Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha That's classic Tim

Ha Ha Pete's got Kudies!! Tim