Tim240z

SuperDave.....you hit the nail on the head. Tim

Ryan, tried to email you some pics (2 of them), came back undeliverable. Tim

I have a set of the S&S full length headers, which I bought used from a member here (no complaints about the transaction!!), but there is no way I can get these to fit with the T56. The driver's side collector flows right into the slave cylinder boss, and there is no easy way to remedy this. I could have an exhaust shop modify them, but not worth the bother IMO. Is there ANYTHING that works with the LT1 heads and T56 (angle plugs) without modification and 'decent' plug clearance? Someone PLEASE help me. I know this topic has come up a million time before, but I still don't see a solution, I don't want the Sanderson cast headers and don't want to spend a crapload of $$$ on them either. Thanks....guys running LT1/T56...any input, please?!!! Tim BTW, these headers I have will likely fit with an auto trans, so if anyone's interested, let me know.

J, AFAIK, everything will bolt up. I'm running 280 rear strut housings on my 240. Tim

OK, No. But if you want to connect the gearbox to the diff, then it may be a good idea Sorry for the sarcasm...couldn't resist. Tim

Both MSA (MotorSportsAuto) and Victoria British carry them. Tim

BooYah...hell yeah!He's making my adapters gratis too...since it's 'experimental' at this point!! I think I've found a VERY good source for CV joints too, and if there is enough interest, Diffs for <$250, but I think that cost of shipping may make it moot over local purchases. Will let everyone know. Tim

Pete, I very much doubt that it's possible to get everything absolutely perfect, but it's going to be much easier than trying to use angle finders and tape measures etc. Besides, I'm getting it done for free. Tim

DOH!!!

Damn Scottie...don't rub it in!!! Hey, I could always drop it in my daily driver 73 Z!? Has he sold it already? Tim

Dang Jeremy, did you stop for quick six pack? Tim

No, very easy, it will take you about 1/2 hour. Tim

Update Finally got off my @ss and got the parts to my machinist. He is making the CV adapter plates and also a solid driveshaft. With the solid driveshaft I can redesign my original front Diff mount to ensure that the T56 output and R230 input is perfectly aligned...thus no vibration. I've already spoken to Speedway about the sideshafts, so as soon as the adapter plates are done I will call in the measurements and the shafts will be done pretty quickly. Once I get the solid driveshaft from the machine shop, it will take me about a day to make a new front mount, at which point I will give it to my machinist to jig and copy. Will keep everyone up to date. Tim

Easier to just swap out the entire strut ass. Tim

Call the SPCA...that's the absolute best thing to do at this point. If they can track down the owners, they are in for some trouble from the Sheriffs. Tim

2 words, Joe... Junk Yard! Just pull the entire strut ass. from a 280Z...stronger stubs. PITA, but cheap. TIm

As I understand it: A regular catch can will allow air to be sucked back to the rad. When the radiator is hot and the liquid expands to create pressure, the overpressure (more than what the rad. cap is rated to) will bleed into the catch can. As the radiator cools (engine off), a vaccuum is created by the decreased volume of the colder water (&coolant). If the tube going from the rad. to the catch can is immersed in liquid, then it will draw in liquid (to the rad.), if it ends at the top of the catch can (in air) then it will draw in air. HTH. Tim

Yes the strut tubes are different (larger for the 280), but unless you have aftermarket springs on your existing setup, it shouldn't make any difference. You can, AFAIK, swap out the stubs. Tim

Without any specific details, I would bet that it is the pan gasket. Try 'nipping' up the bolts, otherwise, get in there and clean off all the dirt and oil and see where the leak is...probably a new gasket is required....don't cheap out either...you will end up chasing leaks forever. Tim

AJ, Do a quick search on subframe connectors. There is a wealth of info here on the topic. A search under 'rollcage' will also provide hours of reading. Pete Paraska's site has some very good details on subframe connectors (you'll find a link on any of his posts. I have some pictures on my site, but descriptions or details yet. Tim

Guys, Spoke to Dave this morning....I think he meant "Trooper" as a generic comment (good sport), not to signify the guys career affilliation. Either way...Good kill Man!! You're welcome, Dude....good luck in AZ! Thanks to John Coffey for all his stories and tuning tricks, and to Rick Johnson for bringing his "Cover Page" V8Z...always a pleasure to see that beauty!!! Tim

Boobala,The reason 4 shafts are needed are so that you can get two sets of the inner CV joint. You would need to use the inner CVs on the outboard side too. The shafts are trash at that point, new ones are supplied with the correct length. If you can buy the diff with out the shafts for cheaper and then just source some CVs that would be your cheapest route. Tim

There are some pics on my site. It's a S&W kit (8 point) Tim

Jason, I am planning (and have been for A LONG TIME) to ofer a kit, but have had several setbacks in other areas. You will need the diff and 2 sets (4) INNER CV joints (some people have bought 2 complete sets of half shafts). I should have something in the very near future. Tim

DUDE....you're not getting ANY sympathy from me I'm married, have a kid, a house (lawn front and back), 3 other cars (besides the V8 Z project) to maintain, work 10-16 hour days, travel overnight several times a month, and attend the odd family (in-law) functions. Progress is SLOW, but steady, and that is all I can ask for. I no longer go out to pubs, the beach (200 yards away) or movies, rather I work on the Z. At the end of the day it is only a hobby, but I'm ready to get this thing on the road, so I am giving the project priority 1 on weekends, at least for the next few months. It's been 2 years now!!! Tim