Tim240z

As far as a kit for the sub frame connectors: I don't think it would really be cost effective to offer a kit, shipping would cost a fortune, and they are pretty easy to fab up. Pete's site has some REALLY good info and dimensions and is what I loosely used to make mine.Pete, I hope you don't mind me linking to your site here?! As for rear ends..Lone hit it on the head. I am going with the R230 out of a Q45 just because: 1. It is stronger than the R200 (which is strong enough anyway) and waYYYYYY stronger than the R180. 2. Has CV joints which are also very strong 3. Most important reason for me is that they are newer, more available, and have LSD (viscous). The R200s with LSD are getting pretty scarse and add on LSD units are VERY expensive. I am currently working on getting a 'bolt in' kit together for the R230, which will be more expensive than going R200, but I think it will be worth it for the above reasons. As for headers, I went with the 'el cheapo' Summit blockhuggers, but that is only because I will eventually be building a big ci sbc with TT, so I am saving my header (custom) $$$ for that. Tim

Not sure about your setup, but the 74 260 console does not work with the 73 dash! Tim

Dan Juday, What years/models can I find this 'valve' jobby?, and where on the car do I look for it when I'm JY hounding? Thanks for the info, Tim

Dude!! For 100 bucks...hell yeah. You can bet the Z going and shake it down and build a High HP motor while driving the Z. BTW, that trans will have the weaker (less splines) input shaft, unless it's been upgraded, but still well worth the money. TIm

Those adapters are available 'off the shelf', but they are 2 piece and end up 2 inches thick. If you are interested, let me know and I will post the company's details. Tim

BLK, I used to use wheel bearing grease on my L28 oil pumps which worked well, but I think the drill primer method works the best. Tim

The mount I made for my car will definitely not be the final version for the 'kit units'. The one I made is made with the R180 Mustache bar, so I will have to make another one anyway for the R200 one. Tim

Have a look at McMAster Carr's web site. I seem to remember seeing some lexan that was extremely strong and resistant to scatching and sun yellowing. McmasterCarr Tim

Problem with just cranking without pressure is everything is dry while rotating...never an ideal situation. Just run down to the local parts store and pick one up. Tim

Best bet is to prime the oil pump. If you didn't fill the pump before installing it, it may take some time to get pressure going. Buy a primer that goes in place of the distributor (summit and others sell them)and spins with a drill, or what i did was just gut an old distributor and use my drill to prime the pump. Tim

Ross, Motorsport Auto carries them. Might want to give them a buzz. (800) 633-6331 (714) 639-2620 Tim

Dan Juday, That T/A valve sounds good, except, I wonder about the 5psi threshold. That is obviously fine for a steel tank, but do you think that kind of pressure will affect a distortion to a plastic tank? Maybe I will make a little aluminum tank as I mentioned before and fill it with activated carbon?, and mount it where the stock rear muffler used to be, out of the way and out of sight!. Tim

Bang, Check this out. It may answer your question?! Tim

I should have one ready by end of this month. Although my setup uses the R180 mustache bar, I will have to get a R200 one from the JY to make the correct front mounting to use the R200. I might just cock the R180 mount since I think most of the guys who will be upgrading will be upgrading from the R200. Tim

JP, I 'believe' the 91 on up are stronger. The older ones use a smaller input shaft that are apt to break, so stay clear of them.They can be upgraded, but the newer ones are better all around so why bother. Tim

Mark: Thanks for the info, makes me feel a little better about the whole deal! Dave: Ya know, a small catch tank sounds like a good idea..I think I might weld up an aluminum one!!, maybe about 1/2 pint or so in Size. Owen: Anytime...just come on by...bring one of your new rims so I can SEE!!!!!! Terry: Thanks for the comments....since you ARE THE MAN! The hammerite under the valence and fenders is just as much for cosmetics as it is for rust prevention. That dagum rust gets in everywhere! Thanks all... Tim

Yeah, I did the same....used a 16 gallon cell which fits tightly (leaving room for exhaust), but nicely and 16 gallons, even with a thirsty V8, is plenty....about 200 + mile range. Here's some pics. Tim

Thanks for the comments guys. On a slightly different note..... Is there a prefered way to vent the plastic fuel cells? I have the Summit 16 gallon cell which has a vent on the top with a -6 fitting. Now what I was thinking was to run some SS braided hose from that fitting to vent outside the cell box (steel box holding the cell)on the side of the box, under the car. My concern is that when the cell is full/almost full, it may act a siphon and splash fuel through the vent. This would not only make the car smell like fuel (read: benzene vapors), but would also be environmentally terrible. I thought of a one way valve, but the breather would need to breathe both ways, to pull in air to replace used gasoline and breathe out for heat vapor expansion. Tim

Just got the latest Summit Catelogue, and they now have powdercoated aluminum cells. Different colors etc...looks nice. Tim

Myron, Maybe I'm looking in the wrong places, but I have only been able to find the non-adj. KYBs for the Z. I did an internet search and looked at KYBs site and some distributors sites. Tim

I feel SO unworthy posting this on the same planet as Terry's stuff, but thought some may be interested, I know I love to see pictures of others' work in progress!! My almost completed fuel hatch. Just needs a latch and some paint and rubber sealing gaskets. Z28 Shifter which is cable operated and hooks up perfectly to my 200 4R trans. Drip rails removed with the initial coat of fiberglass reinforced plastic filler. If the images don't load Here is the Yahoo site , knowing yahoo the pictures will not appear here, so I moved these pictures to the top on the Yahoo page. Happy new year everyone!!!! Tim OK...The images don't load anymore so I deleted them...just click on the link instead.

Looks like the long hard hours of work has been worth it!! Beautiful, man!!! Tim

Crawl under the car and twist the drive shaft and half shafts back and forward (simulating forward and reverse). That should give and instant indication as to where the problem lies. It may be the bolts coming loose, or play in crownwheel and pinion or worn U-joints. Tim

RacerX, I am going directly from the R180 to R230, not necessarily for strength, as most that I've read here the R200 is strong enough for most applications, but more for ratios and availability of LSD. The R230 LSD units are very common out here, the R200 LSD are hens teeth. Tim

The length of the tubes effects the torque band and not the HP levels. The main points on the block huggers which make them less attractive are: 1. unequal length primary tubes. 2. the very tight bend in the primary tubes as they exit the head . But I think that unless you are really trying to squeeze every last drop of HP out of the engine, this is not a big deal, but I think that by making the initial bends in the headers more gentle, and equaling out the length of the two middle tubes (equal with the two outers), that would make them better......but worth it...I dunno Tim