Tim240z

Denny411? He used to be a real regular here......the farming thing got him too busy, or did he get out of Z cars?

Got it!

Mat, Yes, I did not wet sand the panel, but it looks more orange peeled in the pictures than in real life because of the camera flash lamp. It actually looks pretty smooth. Plus, this is *supposed* to be a budget conversion, not a show truck....this is a working truck, not a powder puff, so I am not too worried about the finer details too much. That is why I decided to go with the AutoMeter 'Autogage' series and not something more bling-bling. Plus I got a smoking deal on the electric speedo on Ebay....brand new in the wrapper still. As for the rest of the interior, yes. I have another dash pad that is uncracked, but is black. I will recover it with the same color as the seats, and the same with the door panels. I think I may also put in electric windows after I get the A/C system up and running. I also want to get some new carpet. I think this truck will be a lifer....

not too late....

Still have some if you need any. BTW...they are good for at least 20 extra Horsepower!!

The seats cost $100 with all the belts etc. FWIW, the second row seats out of a NBS burb are $700!!! The only real problem was mounting the drivers side seat belt retractor bracket. The tank was in the way.....so I yanked the tank and am using the dealer option twin saddle tanks (hence the 2 fuel gauges) as primary fuel sources. I had to drill a couple of new holes in the seat rails, and a couple of new holes in the floor (which I then used some big washers to add strength). The 3 point belts bolt to the OEM truck tapped holes. The center seat (which has the fold down armrest with cup holders) has a lap belt which is part of the seat frame. The height of the seats are a bit higher (little bit), but you sink into them more than the stock bench. They are very comfy!!

So far everything works except the drivers side fuel gauge is jumpy (need to check the wiring and grounds), and the signal to the Speedo (electric) is bad, so I think I need to splice into the wire before the PCM instead of using the PCM output to speedo wire. The seats and belts are from a 99 Suburban second row leather...nice and comfy and provide some storage space when bottom is lifted up. New Grant steering wheel, and chevy van (78 ) tilt column. Just some final finishing touches and the old girl will be back in action.

Scraped from the airdamn of the ROD?

Soo.....what do I win?

I used the S&W kit and Corbeau Clubman seats. Had to make mods to the seat bar to have the seats far enough back. Pics on my site. Tim

Just about any decent stationary store will have them (Office Depot etc). They are called paint pens. I use them at work often to mark and lable 55 gal drums. Tim

OK...I'll bite....willow springs....and they are going the wrong way?

Completed

I have a bunch that you can have for free, but they are connected to a L24.....take the whole thing.....pleeeeeeze

there are some issues currently with the search function. Dan will be recompiling soon.

Damn....boy and their toys....

in my album: http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=500&page=2&perpage=12&ppuser=8112&what=allfields&=&action=

Not really.....it carries no current whatsoever.

The only thing that really pisses off the wife (well 2 things really): 1. When I spill gasoline on myself, then walk through the house, 2. When I use the oven in the kitchen to bake parts that I have just spray painted.

In the words of a Rush song: "I will pay the price, but I will not count the cost"

I have a few extras of each. Once these supplies are depleated I will not be doing anymore......it's just too much with everything else going on. I have some large and XL shirts, black caps and some transfers. More info Here On a side note, if anyone wants to take this over, I can get you the screens and embroidery files to save the setup fees. Tim

Yeah....we ran out of wellington boots!!

I am installing a mech temp gauge in the L31 350 in my truck. Now, in the past I have always mounted these in thermostat housing (old style V8 ). Now, with the newer engines, the sender is in the head, right by the exhaust. Since the copper tubing can't be bent to a hard bend, how close to the header is too close? I think it will end up being between 1/8" to 1/4" away from the primary tube of the header.... Can I swap places with the ECT sensor port, or will that F-up the signal to the PCM (I can't see why, but....). I would prefer to run the mech. gauge, but if necessary I will switch to an electric one...... Any thoughts......

Mike, In the back of just about every Hot Rod mag is an ad for a twin snorkle air filter housing, but it is designed for Carbys, so I don't know if it will work for your application. Sorry, don't remember the name of it.......You could always fab your own out of fiberglass a' la Terry O. Tim EDIT: Here it is, I googled it: http://www.ramairbox.com