Tim240z

Really basic. You can download the software from the web, or burn it to a disk on another PC and use the laptops CD drive to load it, then you need a serial connection...That's about it....

Sweet!!!! 454?

I used a 5hp - 20 gal DeVillbis compressor for the complete buildup of my car, including several primer and color sprays. It not really ideal for high air consumption bodywork tools (DA, mudhog etc), but fine for painting. Get the biggest you can afford though... I am upgrading mine (can finally afford to do so) to a 7 HP belt driven 60 gallon verticle unit, so mine is for sale, but you are far away....

Looks like you figured it out.....

Post once per topic please. 2nd post deleted

Roof.... Why not try posting it in your HZ album?

Damn!! Nicely done!!! Don't forget to put in your TC rod bushings Tim

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html

Not a good price at all. It usually isn't when you buy from a specialized wrecking yard. Look locally first in the classified rags. I found my LT1-T56 from a 94 F-body for $1400. You can find better for sure. Tim

Again: SEARCH as I said above!

Search for posts by TurboMeister.

I have used an inexpensive harbour freight (~$60) and it worked very well. Even the painter that sprayed my car used it to do the jams and was impressed. I have also heard fairly good things about the Titan guns (search Ebay for "Titan HVLP". If you wanted to spend some $$$, then Sharpe, DeVillbis, or Sata would be good brands. Tim

Yes, it's been done by several people....

Read, learn and know!!!: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=84963 These questions have been asked so many times it has become nauseating!!

Yup...what he said....

ditto!!!!!

Everything 1975 and older are exempt from emissions TESTING.

Find out exactly what "built" means. To "build" a 200 4R, there is some machining and expensive parts involved. Just make sure of what you're getting and it may just be a good deal......

Personally I would upgrade the crank to 4340

Where ever you go you will run into folks just like that....get used to it and learn how to deal with it.....it won't go away.

Early (79-80) ZX. Put it on because I run rear disk brakes and the valving is correct (as opposed to the 240Z rear drum brake valving on the original master). Tim

I just did my garage. I assembled a 10'x14' shed behind the garage where I have put the compressor. Before the slab was poured, I ran 3/4" 'black pipe' from the back wall of the garage, down 3 feet, across 3 feet, then up into the shed. I wrapped it with underground tape and epoxy (just as if it were a natural gas service line). Then, after it puched through the garage wall, I used copper 3/4" line with several union fittings and the rest soldered together. That way, if I need to, I can disassemble it. I plumbed in 2 'dump' valves so I could drain any condensation, and a master valve at the compressor so that the garage could be isolated. The sweated fittings, according to an expert, can handle upwards of 600 psi. I used a combination of teflon and pipe dope on all the threaded fittings. Tim

Check out bowtie overdrives. If you get a JY tranny, you will likely have to have it rebuilt anyways. I got one out of a late 80s Buick regal (or similar sedan).The Turbo-Hydramatic 200-4R was introduced in 1982 General Motors rear wheel drive, overdrive vehicles. Used primarily in Buick, Olds, Pontiac and Cadillac models, they also appeared in some Chevrolet models. This was made possible by a multiple bellhousing bolt pattern found on some of the cases that allowed the 200-4R to be bolted to Chevrolet's specific bolt pattern. The picture above shows such a case. http://www.2004r.com Tim

Stock booster with a 280zx master cylinder.