Tim240z

accessory positive.

Different for everyone. In my mind, if you get a silly grin on your face every time you get in, then it's the perfect car.....

Might want to think about putting a fraud alert on your credit. That way no new cards can be issued without YOUR express consent...

Memory caught up with me!! Call Jason Cromer at Sam Taylor Buick in Florida: http://www.samtaylor.com/html/parts.html Tim

DO NOT buy the rebuilt autozone junk....they are notorious for not working. Not saying that is the problem, but just from what I've read on Z28.com. Get a new Genuine GM one. Search on Z28.com there is a guy in Florida at a Buick dealership that has great prices!! I will try to find my old invoice if you need..... Do you have spark at the plugs (all of them)?

Hope you are not trying to remove the strut tube from the hub assembly? To replace the strut inserts, you need to remove the spring, then remove the large gland nut at the top of the strut tube....

Let me ask you some basics...forgive me if this sounds dumb, but.... Do you have fuel pressure?(is the pump running, and priming) Are all the harness plugs plugged in? (pull each plug and check that the pins are secure....somtimes they push out the back) Is the PCM getting the right power? (4 ign. pos, and 1 constant pos) Are ALL the grounds wires earthed? (add extra engine to chassis grounds if necessary----is the battery neg. making a good ground to the chassis?) Do you have fuel in the tank? Double check the routing of all the ign. wires from the opti to the plugs. The opti has the numbers printed on each terminal. Are you getting power to and from the coil/module? Are you getting spark at the plugs? Are the injectors firing? If all the above is correct, then it should fire.... :|

I agree!! There are still houses there sitting empty and damaged from the slide in 1995.....the price to pay for living with an ocean view, I suppose! I bet all their property values just tanked!!

Similar: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=97895

Happened yesterday in a small beach community just north of Ventura, CA. Pretty amazing stuff.... Tim

Awww come on Guy.....sure there is, and there are even kind folks that sell them on E-Bay. 50hp for $120....bargain for sure!!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33741&item=7946925670&rd=1

Search in the archives....been spoken about alot.

http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com 200 4r

If you are taking the block in to get bored, the the machine shop can remove and reinstall the cam bearing....it's cheap, and bad economy to try and reuse the old ones. Usual price to install cam bearings is ~$30, plus bearings---another ~$30. Let the machine shop hot tank clean the block...the results will be far better than driveway soap and water...... Tim

Yeah....remember...there is a whole lot of stuff that can be done with very little $$$ input....mostly labor, enough to keep you busy anyways. Like taking of little parts and cleaning, polishing, painting etc...... Tim

I added to your test post. Can you provide the specs on the short block? See my post above....

Hmmm...that's new to me.....I have always just added 5lbs to the torque wrench setting and nipped them all up a bit more. Usually get very slight movement on the head bolts....On the initial torquing of the bolts I stay on the low side of manufacturer spec range, so by adding 5lbs, I am just moving to the high side.... Tim

10% denatured alcohol in the tank. Give it a good hard run to 'clean it out'. I had the same problem with my Z28 (1994). It sat for a long while before I bought it and I failed on NOx also....very high. Took it for a long hard run (full rpm shifts to 3rd gear...at which point I was well over the speed limit). Then I ran the tank down to about 1/4 and dropped in some alcohol. Went straight to the test station, passed at 30ppm NOx, then went and filled the tank with gasoline to fully dilute the alcohol. Worth a try..... Tim

Just squirrel a little away every paycheck...it will add up over time. I am close to your situation since we put a 1000 sq ft addition on the house and the 2nd mortgage that goes along with it. My Z is sitting in the garage with no drivetrain and rear sitting on blocks (sold the rear assembly with the drivetrain). I am starting to notice rust breaking through the paint on my 71 chevy truck, so I need to do body and paint on that before it gets worse, I have my 72 Opel GT coming home from the bodyshop soon that is screaming for a modern powerplant, plus I still need to do the landscaping on the back yard following the house addition (8 cubic yards of dirt to remove and lawn laid and sprinkler system installed)......so yeah, I know where you are right now!! Tim

The pics need to be hosted on the web somewhere. You can upload them to your album here on HybridZ. Once uploaded' date=' open the picture and right (alternate) click on it. Select 'Properties' and then copy that url and paste it between the [img'] tags in your post. BTW, are you using the 4-7 swap cam? What crank (brand and material) are you using, and what length rods?

Look into an aftermarket crank. They are usually stronger than the stock ones and work out cheaper than doing the machine work to the OEM one (at least with the 350 chevy cranks). Also, when you have a crank ground down you usually lose the hardened surfacing of the journals as they are usually only surface hardened. Not the end of the work, but something to keep in mind. At least look into the price of an aftermarket stock replacement crank. Tim

Rudeness was not the intent....

Dan, I have a line on a nice original 72 240Z. Let me know if you are interested. He wants ~$2300 for it. Even the dash is uncracked.

Do some of your own research. Do some internet searches and find some pictures of different GM trannies and compare with yours. The pans are usually very indentifiable. By typing "GM transmission identification" in google, I came up with this: http://www.nastyz28.com/transid.html There is a lot of info out there.....just a bit of effort on your part is required, instead of being spoon fed.